Hooking up an outside LP gas burner

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gtown

Member
Joined
May 29, 2006
Posts
13
I just bought a new Bayou Classic outdoor LP gas burner for outdoor cooking when RV'ing.  I had hoped to install a quick-disconnect in my RV's LP gas line to connect the burner to.

When the new burner came, I noticed that the regulator that came with it had a label on it indicating that its downstream pressure is 10 psi.  (Yes, PSI, not inches of water!)  In earlier posts, both Ron and RVRoamer indicated that the proper LP gas pressure for RV appliances is 11 in. of water.  Right now, it looks like I'm gonna have to buy a new 20# LP tank to feed the burner.

Does anyone have any good ideas on how to implement my original idea of connecting to my RV's twin 30#'ers?  MY RV has an integrated tank selector valve and regulator, so there's no way to tap into a tank-pressure port downstream of the selector valve, but upstream of the regulator.

TIA for any help anyone can offer.

John in SW Ohio

 
John,

There are hose/connector kits available from various rv supply places, Camping World being one, that are designed for hooking up an external lp tank to your onboard system. They allow for connection of things like gas grills, lanterns, etc. that operate at higher pressures. They're installed BEFORE the rv's regulator, so the full pressure is available for those appliances. You don't need an external tank, but the connection is there should you want to use it for extra capacity for your rv's furnace, fridge, or range. They're called Extend-a-Stay or Stay-a-While.
 
John,

About the integrated valve/regulator: It might take a bit of creative plumbing, but should be doable. Somebody had to connect it in the first place; you just have to figure out the right place to disconnect it and insert your kit into the system.
 
Karl,

Thanks for the info.  It looks like if I want to connect my burner to my RV's LP supply, it'll have to be to either one tank or the other.  It would be nice to be able to switch the burner's supply with the RV's tank selector valve, but since that valve is integrated into the RV's regulator, I guess that's not gonna happen!  At this point, it looks like the least expensive option is just to get a new 20# tank and dedicate it for the burner.  The fittings and hose would cost more than a new 20# tank.

John
 
I don't see why you can't insert a T between your existing crossover valve/regulator and one of the tanks, which would then allow you to add the Cooker's regulator ahead of the RV regulator. Might have to put a riser (extension) between the other tank and the valve to make both sides even.  Of course, that will make the valve system higher and could be a problem if there is a molded cover over your 30# tanks and valves.
 

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