Hot water heater leak

[CharlesinGA]

The burner tube is welded into the tank at both the top and bottom. The black stamped metal mounting pan uses metal rings that are a press fit on the tubes to retain the mounting pan in place to the tank, but no gaskets are present that could leak.

I will suggest to the OP to strip the water heater of the electronic module for sure, and sell it, list in on the classifieds here on RVForum and elsewhere. Somewhere, there is someone needing an electronic module for their water heater.

Charles

 

[Tulecreeper]

It starts to leak out as soon as water is circulating through the heater.

You have a hole in the bottom of your tank.

 

[Kirk]

The HWH is original to the vehicle. I've never tried repairing one of these things but in your opinion, would you just order a new unit instead of repair?

The water is coming from the tube that the propane flame is burning into. So definitely not the pressure relief valve.

I'll work on limping along with this while I wait for a new one to come in.

Limping along should harm nothing so long as the leak isn't too bad and as long as all of the leaking water goes outside of the RV and isn't keeping any of the structure of the RV wet.

I would agree with most of the suggestions at this point but you have not mentioned the age of the RV so that does limit us somewhat. It definitely is an Atwood model from the pictures, so Charles gave you good information on a replacement. As to selling the electronics, that might be possible but it won't be easy in my opinion and don't expect a very high price. As one who has repaired a lot of RV appliances, I wouldn't give more than $10 for it, if I had a need for one. Nothing wrong with doing that if you are realistic.

I don’t know the answer to this question but is there some type of gasket between the burner tube and the tank?

There is not. The burner area is a welded in part of the water heater tank in all RV water heaters that I have ever seen. They are not removable.

 

[Bsholl]

Just be aware you cannot get that water heater any longer. The current Dometic is a different size and shape and requires an adapter kit and special outside door. If this is a combined gas/electric unit where you have two switches inside the RV, one for GAS and one for Elecrric, Suburban makes a replacement that fits in the opening. SAW6DEL is the model It must have the L on the end. You don't say what year, or model Atwood it is, if you can determine that, post it up. I'm not seeing the data tag in your pics, is should be on the RH vertical surface to the right of the burner.

If this is an older model with a gas switch (12v DC) and a large snap switch (120v AC) then you need the SAW6DE (but no L on the end)

The letter A means Advantage, which is what Suburban calls their models designed to replace the old Atwoods. Dometic left everyone out in the cold on this. The letter L on the end means you have two small 12v DC rocker switches, most likely in a panel and you control it with 12v DC. The non L model is for older models that had 120v AC going directly from a house type snap switch to the water heater and no other switch.

Charles

Hey Charles, thank you again for posting this and I'm just getting around to fixing the water heater. It has finally crapped out. I'm hoping you can advise on how I can determine what model to replace this with, SAW6DEL or SAWD. The model number on this thing is totally gone unfortunately. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If it helps, this model only has a propane switch inside on the control panel to turn it on. No electric option.

 

[CharlesinGA]

The only issue is if this is a 6 gal tank water heater. If a 10 gal, things change. outside dimensions of a 6 gal are about 17-3/4 wide and about 14-1/4 tall if you measure to the outside edges of the mounting flange with the door open. 10 gal dimensions are quite a bit larger.

If you do not have any electric heat element at all and plan to operate only on propane a SAW6D is the gas only model.

This brochure pretty well lists it all. The outside door is a separate item, as there are three color choices as shown in the brochure, polar white, artic white or black.

Edit: OK, I see you said you only had gas, no 120v AC at all.

For a dual elect/propane, If you only have a single switch for the propane then the SAW6DE is probably the simplest to install. You can use the existing switch for the control of Propane burner and fault light, and assuming you have 120v AC heating element in the old one, this one takes the wire directly, and has a red rocker switch on the outside (Yes, you run outside, open the door, turn the switch on) and this could be left on and controlled by the circuit breaker or by adding a good quality standard light switch (aka"snap switch") inside somewhere.

The SAW6DEL is ONLY used when you have a dual propane and electric rocker switch panel already, or you are willing to run wires to add one.

Don't forget to order some butyl tape to put on the back side of the mounting flange and a tube of no-sag Dicor sealant to run a bead around the outside when you remove the excess butyl that squeezes out.

Charles

 

[gwinger]

I don’t know the answer to this question but is there some type of gasket between the burner tube and the tank?

The burner tube is probably welded to the tank. There doesn't appear to be an electric element.

 

[Kirk]

Since Dometic bought out Atwood, who made your present water heater, you may want to at least check to see if one of their new ones will fit the opening that you have. Check them on the Dometic website here.

 

[Bsholl]

@CharlesinGA Hey Charles, I am replacing this water heater and it's turning out to be a rodeo. I was wondering if you're available to field some switch questions?

 

[CharlesinGA]

Well, just got in. Started packing wheel bearings and discovered I was out of the cotter pin I needed, off to Home Depot late, then eat, later.

I'll send you a private message. check the envelope symbol next to your screen name in the red bar, upper right side of the screen.

Charles