Lou Schneider said:
If the trailer has been sitting with the propane turned off for a while, you probably have air in the propane lines. No system is truly gas tight and as the temperatures fluctuate between daytime highs and nighttime lows, the gas in the pipes will expand and contract. This isn't a problem when the propane is turned on, but when it's off, air seeps in as the gas lines cool off and eventually displaces the propane.
To purge the air out of the lines, make sure everything's turned off and there's propane in the tank. Get a hand held propane BBQ lighter, you'll need it to light the stove and water heater. Matches will work, but the BBQ lighter is more convenient.
I bought one of the barbecue lighters already
Turn on the propane valve, and then go inside and use the BBQ lighter to try and light a stove burner.
Can you explain how to do this? I have not done it yet. Is it just turn the burner dial on and hold the flame near it? Is that it and if so how long should I let it run on for? Id assume if its lit than the lines would be clear right away?
You'll probably only get air out at first, but this is a fairly large user so within a minute or so the propane should reach it and the burner will light.
Now that the stove has purged the majority of air out of the lines, you can try the rest of the appliances. Your water heater will likewise need a flame from a match or the BBQ igniter to light it's pilot, but it's flame is so small you'll sit there all day waiting for the air to exit if you hadn't purged via the stove first. Even so, it may take several seconds for the pilot to purge the air remaining in it's line.
Make sure the water heater is actually full of water and hasn't been drained for the winter if you're in an area that drops below freezing.
Im sorry but I do not know how to check if the water heater has water in it or not, I still have not actually found a water heater bottle per se yet? Where do I find this and how do I check to see if it has water in it?
One other issue I have is that the water pump isnt working. Its making a noise when I turn it on but even after disconnecting the out line no water to be seen. Its is a Shur-Flo 200-210-39.
Not sure what Im gonna do about that yet whether it be replace or attempt rebuild. I'm hoping you wont tell me there is no way of filling the water heater now until I have a good pump hooked up.
I really want to try and get the other things working so i can see whats what.
Turn the knob to Pilot and press it in to bypass the thermocouple, then hold the lighter flame next to the pilot until it lights. It will take the pilot flame a few seconds to heat the thermocouple, then you can release the knob and if the pilot stays lit, turn it to ON to light the main flame.
Ive tried pressing in the blue knob and it does not appear to press in or release out?
Also I do not know yet where is the pilot you speak of?
The furnace is auto-ignition, so just make sure the switch on the thermostat is ON and turn up the temperature. You should hear the fan starts, then a few seconds later after after any residual propane is blown out of the flame chamber, the flame should start.
It also may take a few tries (off until the fan stops, then back on) to get the remaining air out of it's line.
I will try all of this after I have purged the air but I was told by the last owner that he purged the air already ( via the stove ) and yet still the furnace would not start?
You didn't ask, but your refrigerator also has a small flame and may take a few tries to get it to light the first time you use it.
I wish the refrigerator were still propane, it has been replaced with an electric.
I wonder if it would be possible and not too costly to get the original style back in there?
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1) Lighting the stove ... make sure the propane is on at the tank (the valve at the top of the tank). Go inside and hold the BBQ lighter next to one of the stove burners and turn it's knob all the way on. If the flame lights, propane is there and you're good to go. If there's air in the line, it may blow out the BBQ lighter so re-light it and hold it a little further away until the flame lights.
If there was air in the lines, the flame may sparkle yellow until the air is purged. Once the burner has a steady blue flame you're done. Turn it off and proceed to the next appliance.
2) The water heater tank is integral with the water heater - the flame chimney snakes through it. I.E., it's directly behind where you saw the blue control knob. You'll need water pressure to see if there's water in it, if your water pump isn't working connect a garden hose to the City Water Inlet. To verify the tank has water in it, pull the Overtemp/Overpressure relief valve open (it's on the upper half of the water heater) and see if water comes out.
If no water comes out, there's a pair of valves on the back of the water heater (inside the trailer) that can be set to bypass water around the tank. Usually one is between the tank's inlet and outlet, maybe a second one is on the tank inlet. The handle is in line with the pipes for on, crosswise to the pipes for off. Set them so water flows through the tank, not around it.
The pilot and main burner are inside the flame chamber. Follow the gas lines into the flame chamber, the small one leads to the pilot flame assembly. That's where you light the pilot.
3) The water pump ... do you have water in the fresh water tank, or has it also been drained for winter?
4) RV refrigerators start around $1000. Your choice, but chances are good the gas line, 12 volts and the 120 volt outlet are they're still in place.
