How do I know the weight limit on my RV?

[Riley90]

Thinking about installing a washer/dryer at the rear of the RV and upgrading to a 200 Gallon water tank. it will be about 2000 lb in total, how do I know if my RV can handle that?

 

[DonTom]

Find your GVWR, then weight the entire loaded vehicle.

In my old RV, the weight ratings are listed on a paper taped in the closet. I am not sure about yours, but it should be in there somewhere.

If not, mention the year and model and somebody here will find it for you.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Riley90]

Hi, My RV is currently at a repair shop, but it was a 1990 Ford E350 Minnie Winnie 27FT.
Is the GVWR the only thing that matters? or should I worry about one side being too heavy?

 

[DonTom]

Hi, My RV is currently at a repair shop, but it was a 1990 Ford E350 Minnie Winnie 27FT.
Is the GVWR the only thing that matters? or should I worry about one side being too heavy?

That would be your GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating).

That will be listed on the same page as your GVWR, if you can find it in your RV.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Riley90]

Thank You, I will look for it tomorrow

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Go slowly and carefully,, most class "C"s are right at there limits when new and your selected place is the worst spot for added weight..>>>Dan

 

[phil-t]

Pay attention to the front and rear axle weight ratings, then you will need to "balance" left and right, as much as possible.
That kind of weight in the indicated location may change the driving/handling of that rig, a lot.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

Go slowly and carefully,, most class "C"s are right at there limits when new and your selected place is the worst spot for added weight..>>>Dan

Especially the E350 vs E450 chassis.

 

[John Canfield]

When you start adding weight to the rear, that weight will unload the front axle making handling and road manners dangerous.

You are getting good advice here from very experienced RV'ers - I encourage you to pay close attention.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Adding 2,000 lbs would exceed the CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity) of most Class C's built on an E350 chassis.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

2000 lb in total, how do I know if my RV can handle that?

Few can, I know mine can't and it's a class A. And if it could it would reduce the payload for other things like food, belongings and people. RV's are already loading up a given chassis to near max capacity with the house and systems so unless you start gutting it to shed weight, just carrying a few people and supplies is pretty much all you get with any RV.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[DonTom]

most class "C"s are right at there limits when new and your selected place is the worst spot for added weight.

Back in the 1970's, when a brand new Class C was built, it was often (usually?) over the GVWR. Even before anybody drove it away.

Did it cause many problems? I owned such a 1978 RV and it was rock stable at any speed and it was never an issue anywhere from what I could tell.

Makes me wonder how important it really is if a bit over the GVWR these days.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

My guess is it's determined by the "weakest link" like braking distance. Spec's usually cover a wide range of operating conditions and as long as one doesn't operate under one of the more demanding of them, then you might "get away" with exceeding some limits. Not all consequences will be catastrophic failure, could be just increased braking distance, maybe some bearings that fail sooner or springs that sack out. But that puts you soundly "on your own" in terms of longevity and safety. There are reasons the GVWR is what it is, and there's a chance you'll discover just what boundaries the engineers were up against when those ratings were established. I usually don't lose sleep overloading my pickup for a 6 mile run to the dump but I would be less confident it would hold up if I expected it to operate like that every day. So it's relative to be sure, just depends on how far and how long you go past the limits.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Utclmjmpr]

You may have gotten away with many things in the past,, doesn't mean you will "next time".. Also try putting another two thousand pounds on the tail end of anything and not feel the difference..>>>Dan

 

[DonTom]

Also try putting another two thousand pounds on the tail end of anything and not feel the difference..

The 200 gal water tank being full will be around 1,670 lbs of that weight. Just don't keep it full while driving.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Read the post,,,200 gallons of water AND A WASHER DRYER!!.>>>D

 

[DonTom]

Read the post,,,200 gallons of water AND A WASHER DRYER!!.>>>D

I knew that from the start. An RV washer and dryer combo would be nothing near 2K lbs. An RV washer and dryer combo is about 150 lbs. That is less than I weigh.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Go polish a motorcycle

 

[DonTom]

What part of AND don't you understand??>>>D

The part that says "Just don't keep it full while driving."

The added 1,670 lbs water is the real problem. The 150 lbs is almost negligible. That's less than 10% of the total added weight.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Rob&Deryl]

The part that says "Just don't keep it full while driving."

The added 1,670 lbs water is the real problem. The 150 lbs is almost negligible. That's less than 10% of the total added weight.

-Don- Reno, NV

So, you get where you are going and if no water hookup, how to fill tank? Going to have to drive will water in tank to use the tank. If you have city water you don’t need the tank.