How do you remove windows and build a wall?

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Riley90

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I am thinking about removing windows from RV and making it a flat wall, so I have better insulation and safety, but I am not sure how I do it?

I can take the windows out and nail some plywood on the outside to enclose the hole, but it will be super ugly and does not prevent water.
 
Part of the "how" would depend on what you want it to look like when you're done. One way would be to remove the window and lag some pieces of marine plywood over the hole. Paint to suit. Aesthetically marginal but quick and easy. Another way is after removing the window take the sheathing off on both sides, add framing and insulation and re-sheath the interior and exterior with OEM materials, blending where edges meet and finishing so when you're done the wall is indistinguishable from OEM. Or maybe something in between where you remove the window and replace it with a matching or contrasting "panel" of wood or fiberglass in the opening. Each has their own level of required skill, tools, time and money so it boils down to deciding what you want and can afford.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
uchu said:
How about just adding some insulated window covers? It's cheaper, easier to install and you won't ruin your RV.
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The biggest issue is my RV has 30 years old window. It won't be fully close, so if I want to add fiberglass insulation and build another interior wall, I think the water can get in through the window, and it cost $200 on Amazon to get a new window. I think it's better just use marine plywood and sealant, as Mark said.
 
It's a mostly a matter of the exterior cosmetics you find acceptable. With the window removed, you are left with two thin skins and about 2" of space between. Straight-forward carpentry to cut pieces of insulation and panel to fill the opening and then seal it up. You can even buy white filon sheeting to better match the exterior.

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You might consider including a small porthole-style window when you fill it, just to get some light. 10" round or 8x15" rectanglular gives some light while transferring only a little heat.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
It's a mostly a matter of the exterior cosmetics you find acceptable. With the window removed, you are left with two thin skins and about 2" of space between. Straight-forward carpentry to cut pieces of insulation and panel to fill the opening and then seal it up. You can even buy white filon sheeting to better match the exterior.

RV Fiberglass Siding

Upgrade your RV with RecPro's high-quality Fiberglass Siding – lightweight, sturdy, easy-to-install & available in various colors/sizes. Shop now!
www.recpro.com www.recpro.com

You might consider including a small porthole-style window when you fill it, just to get some light. 10" round or 8x15" rectanglular gives some light while transferring only a little heat.
Click to expand...
This is a good website!

I have a question about fiberglass rolls. It is soft. Do I still need to lag some plywood as support and then attach fiberglass siding? Should I nail it or use some glue to stick it to plywood?
 
So, it is a fiberglass side? Fiberglass panels and not the aluminum corrugated panels?
Do not use nails.
Screwed and glued only, and I imagine a good glue or Liquid nails-type adhesive out of a caulk tube would be all that is needed to attach, but...

Depending on the siding I would add new siding however you can, we do not know what you have so I wont speculate on every possibility.
You do not need a wall (plywood) so much as you need to fill in the framing pieces that stoped at where the window cut-out is, these are the trailer's studs like a house has 2x4 studs. Trailers usually have a 1x1 metal or wood stud/ frame or might be bigger up to two inches. We dont know.
After you do this you attach the outer skin somehow, if that's pulling the entire piece off and adding back a piece without a window hole or if you just patch in a new piece to cover the hole. Fiberglass is easier than aluminum as you can use fiberglass and epoxy and a big sanding block to make the patch smooth, then just paint. I have patched little holes on my aluminum sided cargo trailer by just using electrical tape to tape the patch piece in, but do not do that on a big window hole.
The interior wall can be patched however you can manage, and inside the wall you can put the same insulation as exist already.
 
Riley90 said:
I have a question about fiberglass rolls. It is soft. Do I still need to lag some plywood as support and then attach fiberglass siding? Should I nail it or use some glue to stick it to plywood?
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It is flexible to be sure. For a sidewall, I would glue (laminate) it to a more rigid backer, maybe a thin piece of luan plywood or sheet metal. No nails. Probably no screws either, but solely for cosmetic reasons. If you don't mind visible screw heads on the outside, it's a good way to make sure the edges don't ever peel loose. However, a competent glue-job should never separate anyway.
 
That fiberglass roll is interesting. You might could, if you are motivated, just put this over the entire side of you camper, or do the whole camper.. You still need a rigid backing in the hole.

Yes, do put something behind it. Most campers have a thin wood paneling board behind the fiberglass, glued to it, to give it rigidity. I would do as they do and use wood. 1/8th inch or slightly thinner would do. You could glue it to foam board, like a surf board construction, but the wood will be easier to work with.
Make the patch fit inside the hole, not over it. Then use maybe bondo to fill the crack and smooth out for painting.
Connect the frame members still

There are pics of a guy glueing this on top of his aluminum sided cargo trailer... I may consider this instead of new paint for mine.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
It is flexible to be sure. For a sidewall, I would glue (laminate) it to a more rigid backer, maybe a thin piece of luan plywood or sheet metal. No nails. Probably no screws either, but solely for cosmetic reasons. If you don't mind visible screw heads on the outside, it's a good way to make sure the edges don't ever peel loose. However, a competent glue-job should never separate anyway.
Click to expand...
Got it!
 
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