How to Identify and Replace the Correct Propane Pigtail Hose

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Member Title: Propane pigtail replacement
Members shared practical advice for replacing a leaking propane pigtail while on the road, emphasizing the importance of identifying the correct hose type and connection. The original poster initially confused inverted flare and pipe thread fittings, but with guidance and photo reviews from experienced RVers, it was clarified that their setup required a 1/4" male pipe thread pigtail, which does need yellow gas-rated thread tape. Several members recommended Marshall Excelsior and MB Sturgis...
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tanglemoose

Senior Member
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May 14, 2013
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Location
Mountains
Ok.. Haven't had to replace yet...
Guessing not big deal, but now leaking.. so off to Globe, AZ tomorrow... any hints suggestions for us.... for installation??? thx!
 
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I created this for another forum very recently, and had the foresight to save it, so I just pasted it here. Measure the length of your pigtails. Typical two tanks with a regulator between is 15 inch. You may have less but 15 inch works better.

I prefer Marshall Excelsior as they are USA made of US components however Sturgis also are US made. Marshall will be several times to price of China made ones.

Pigtails are common and standard. Two versions, one connects to the regulator at a brass adapter and is known as a reverse flare. The other type screws straight into the regulator with 1/4 male pipe thread.

The other variable is the length, yours is probably about 15 inch. Tons of them on Amazon.

1772758628045.png


I took the above illustration from Amazon merely to show the two types. (ignore the red X/green check mark, just use the illustration to determine what type of hose end you have) Male NPT screws directly into the aluminum body of the regulator (with yellow thread tape or other gas approved sealant) and the inverted flare type screws onto an adapter that stays in the regulator. No sealant or thread tape is needed for this, but do not disturb the adapters.

If you do by chance remove or disturb the adapters, you need to remove them, clean the threads and apply thread tape and reinstall them in the regulator, then install the hose.

If you are willing to pay the money, I highly recommend the hoses made by Marshall Excelsior, USA made from USA materials.

These are 1/4 male pipe thread, 15 inch.

1772758681861.png


These are the 1/4 inverse flare version also in 15 inch

1772758725871.png


Here is a regulator with the inverse flare adapters installed. If you have these, DO NOT remove them, use a wrench to hold them so they do not turn when you break the hoses loose at the other hex.

If you have only one hex at the regulator, then you have the 1/4 male pipe thread version.

1772758774861.png


Yellow gas thread tape for 1/4 male pipe thread ONLY, do not use on inverse flare thread.

1772758824988.png


Charles
 
I think we need the 1/4" inverted male flare and need the yellow tape. It has yellow tape now. We are 1000 miles from home, so don't have any choices to order one...

Ours looks like about 12" but availability in town in 15". You mention better? Posting pic. We have propane converter that changes over automatically. Thanks!
 

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I think we need the 1/4" inverted male flare and need the yellow tape. It has yellow tape now. We are 1000 miles from home, so don't have any choices to order one...

Ours looks like about 12" but availability in town in 15". You mention better? Posting pic. We have propane converter that changes over automatically. Thanks!

With he inverted flare, you do not need the tape. The mating surfaces of the flare seal the connection. In fact, you can actually over tighten the flare.
I agree about the Marshall Excelsior hose. Another good brand is MB Sturgis.
 
As I noted, you DO NOT use the yellow tape or any sealant with the reverse/inverse flare. Only if you disturb the adapter that is screwed into the regulator do you need yellow tape and that is because you will need to remove the adapter, clean the threads, install the tape and reinstall the adapter.

EDIT: See my post below.

If you just remove the inverse flare from the adapter, you DO NOT need the tape.

You need two wrenches, one to hold the adapter, and one to turn the hex on the inverse flare side. Do not wrench on the hex closest to the hose (that thin hex that shows in the pics, you want the wider hex closest to the adapter.)

Charles
 
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Looking at your pic

1772762107143.png


You DO NOT have the inverse flare, but rather have the 1/4 male pipe thread, and yes, you need the tape for that.

The 15 inch pigtail will allow you to install the tanks with the fittings facing outward, and use the round hole in the handle for the hold down. That is the way it is usually done.

Charles
 
Looking at your pic

View attachment 2423520

You DO NOT have the inverse flare, but rather have the 1/4 male pipe thread, and yes, you need the tape for that.

The 15 inch pigtail will allow you to install the tanks with the fittings facing outward, and use the round hole in the handle for the hold down. That is the way it is usually done.

Charles
So is this right part?
 

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The package says this is inverted male flare, you do NOT have this type as evidenced by your pic, see below.

Screenshot 2026-03-05 211209.png


Your hose is directly screwed into the regulator.

Screenshot 2026-03-05 211406.png


And is 1/4 male pipe thread (¼ MPT) (It is NOT inverted male flare). This is evidenced by the single hex and no brass adapter.

**********************************

If you had the inverted flare, it would have two, or possibly three, separate wrench hex's and look like this.

Screenshot 2026-03-05 211659.png
 
The package says this is inverted male flare, you do NOT have this type as evidenced by your pic, see below.

View attachment 2423524

Your hose is directly screwed into the regulator.

View attachment 2423525

And is 1/4 male pipe thread (¼ MPT) (It is NOT inverted male flare). This is evidenced by the single hex and no brass adapter.

**********************************

If you had the inverted flare, it would have two, or possibly three, separate wrench hex's and look like this.

View attachment 2423526
Ah.. OK I see that now.. you can tell we are greenies!. But I don't see the one I need at Walmart here in Globe, az, but there is tractor supply..and Ace.
We watched video from Camco that said if you had regulator that automatically changed that is what we needed . Uhh
 
One more thing. If you have a cover over your tanks, rotate the tanks, as Charles said, to get that 180º loop out. The cover will catch on the hose when removing or installing and cause it to leak at the crimped joints.
I had the same problem..
 
If all you can find is inverted flare hoses, then just buy adapters . Tractor Supply should have the adapters
 
So, is it safe to take one of the pigtails off, and take to town with us. As long as regular is pointing to tank on. We have to fill one of our tanks...
 
So, is it safe to take one of the pigtails off, and take to town with us. As long as regular is pointing to tank on. We have to fill one of our tanks...
Thats the idea behind the auto switching regulator. Just select the tank in use and remove the other tank. Personally I would shut off the other tank if you plan on removing the hose, though I don't think it would be a problem with a properly functioning regulator.

Charles
 
So, is it safe to take one of the pigtails off, and take to town with us. As long as regular is pointing to tank on. We have to fill one of our tanks...
Sure. Here are the steps:
Rotate the regulator arrow to the full tank.
Shut off the valve on the empty tank.
Disconnect the hose from the empty tank.
Remove the empty tank and get it filled.
Disconnect the hose from the regulator.
Reverse these steps on installation.

Use teflon tape (designed for gas) on the threads if you have pipe threads. When looking at the end of the adapter, wrap the tape in a clockwise direction. Only wrap it with 2 1/2 to 3 turns and do not put tape on the 1st thread. This is to minimize the chances of getting a piece of tape inside the regulator.

Note: when opening the tank valves, open them slowly to prevent the safety valve from shutting prematurely.

Also, open the valves all the way. I’ve been told that you have to do this with some tank valves to back seat the stem to prevent gas from leaking out around the valve stem.
 
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FWIW, I NEVER use sealing tape on gas connections. A small sliver of tape cut off by the threads(usually caused by improper application) can work its way into a regulator or valve and cause a headache/problem that is hard to locate. I use LP sealing paste.
 
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I don't know about the US but in the UK you can buy replacement pigtails with or without non return valves. As a retired gas engineer, i would always buy hoses with the nr valves.
 
When I had a pull trailer I turned the tanks around so they sat on the tongue "backwards" with the tank guards ahead of the valves to protect them and the hose connections against road debris, etc. Maybe it was just whistling in the dark but it didn't affect the usability - everything was still visible and accessible.
 

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