How to install eye hooks in ceiling that will hold 200 lbs ?

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Two Peas Uprooted

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The reason for these is below for those who are curious...

We have a 30 year old 30' RV (no slide outs) so we don't have a clue as to what's above the carpeted ceiling. Can anyone give us ideas of how we could install at least 2 eye hooks which have the ability to hold (minimum 80 lbs, ideally up to 200lbs)? My assumption is that we're going to need to drill holes up through the roof and into a new 'cross-bar' that could help distribute the weight. But is this even possible and do we just fly blind as to where we locate it? Obviously we are limited as the location of the eye hooks need to be in the center of our living space.

We have considered building something inside the RV to hold this but can't find a way (due to the sofa, upper cabinets etc. We did remove the chair and cabinets on one side to make room.

My husband is the one who will be doing this - he's not loving the project but we will ALL love the results.

We are in the middle of remodeling our RV to hit the road with our twin 4 year olds. One of them has SPD and needs the ability to spin & hang upside down in a yoga swing or rope ladder to keep her and us sane, especially on days that it's difficult to make it outside. (At home we have multiple hooks along a beam in our living room available for numerous play things (bars, rings, rope ladders, swings etc) and it works great.

Thanks to anyone who is willing to conceptualize and give us ideas on how we could possibly accomplish it.
 
I would put a continuous beam across several ceiling beams, carrying the loads across more than one targeted location of a hook. Make sure you use I bolts for the hooks, which are machine threaded for nuts and washers. I would use hardwood planks like oak that you can get at many of the big box stores.
 
It would really help here if you told us the model and year of the RV, though be ware many RV's use very minimal supports in the roof, some don't have any and only have sub 1/8th inch luan backed styrofoam with thin metal stringers to hold the walls up. Others use wood stringers, though they measure only 1x2 inches or so.

p.s. the best cross bracing is likely to be around the air conditioner and vent frame supports.
 
I agree with "Spread the load
Another option si to build an arch. of sorts
Two plank running up and down along the wall and one cross member on top of them

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With no hint what the RV actually is, I can as a person with significant engineering experience, make a simple recommendation. If you have a roof top A/C unit, this will pose no risk.

Span the roof edge to edge and then drill trough for the fastener. If it is a rubber or single sheet roof, get things lined up and support whatever beam you choose at the edges only. Create a flexible seal around the fastener so it can flex without leaking. Then the spanning beam won't try to flex the roof.

If that new beam is no higher than to rooftop unit, it will not be a vertical clearance issue.

I suggest that you try to locate an owners group. At that age, someone will have probably take one of those apart enough to know how the roof structure was made originally.

Matt
 
I myself would bring the load from the floor up along side and try not to fool the roof once it starts leaking or weakens roof you are in trouble.
 
I myself would bring the load from the floor up along side and try not to fool the roof once it starts leaking or weakens roof you are in trouble.
I agree, get some 4x4 lumber and make an easy make shift support. Heck 2x4 lumber would probably suffice.
 
It's highly unlikely there is any roof support capable of 200 lb loads. Or holding a large screw-eye. The typical RV roof has no rafters in the traditional sense. The roof is a semi-dome that bridges a mere 8.5 ft, so doesn't require much support. The cross-members are typically slim aluminum or wood and spaced maybe 24" or even more and used primarily to attach the interior ceiling and hold the a/c ducts. Just enough to stiffen a roof of thin luan plywood, styrofoam and a outer skin of rubber or filon.

Here are some typical RV roofs in newer construction. Older models used wood strips where newer ones are mostly metal framed. Low-end models are still made with "stick" construction (wood).
 
It's highly unlikely there is any roof support capable of 200 lb loads.

Actually I'm 300 pounds and can walk about on the roof without falling through.. So I'm guessing any beam spanning at least two roof "Rafters" (Support beams) ..

What's more when we replaced a blower motor on one of my AC's both Shawn and I were on the roof together. Shawn is right close to my size so adding the motors and tools that's around 700 pounds My feet cover about 1 square foot total (about half a square foot each)

Still as I posted I like the uprights and cross beam idea that someone later copied.

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Put the cross beam diretly under a roof beam. it needs to be full width. the uprigts hold the ends up and a screw up into the ceiling at each end (Within a few inches of the uprights(

I'd use a 4x4 for the cross member Open to 2x4 or 4x4 for the uprights. That will easily hold 200 pounds at the center

If the support hooks for trhe load are near the ends of the cross member than 2x4 across (No load in center)
I know a 2x8 can hold 300 pounds over a six foot span no sweat (How we apply roofing on steep roofs)
 
Actually I'm 300 pounds and can walk about on the roof without falling through.. So I'm guessing any beam spanning at least two roof "Rafters" (Support beams) ..
LOL, John, I'm pushing 250 myself. But 300 lbs spread on two large-size shoes is a much different matter than 200 lbs hanging from a screw eye or even an eye bolt.
 
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