How to level long term

[2005ArticFox]

Hi y'all! I just got an RV to utilize as a guest house. Its is a 2005 Arctic Fox 38' ToyHauler. I have it placed to the side on my property currently. There is a cement slab beside it that is 1" - 4" higher than the ground beside it. I want to move the RV over 4-6 inches but if I do that the right set of the wheels will be on the slab and the left set will be on the lower concrete slab. I was looking at Lynx blocks for a long term solution. Can Lynx blocks be used for a year or more at a time? If so, what is the best way to get the 5th wheel on them? The most common way I have seen is to build the blocks and drive up on them. There was another way I came accross that said you could use a bottle jack to lift up the side of the rv and stack blocks underneath the wheel and continue to adjust until it is level. I included a picture of the slab

 

[CharlesinGA]

I would use concrete cap blocks (solid) or something similar. Plastic lynx blocks will deteriorate in UV. Cap blocks are fairly cheap.

Charles

 

[JudyJB]

Could also use wood boards, like 2x10s or something similar to get the right height.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Use treated lumber if you use wood, but yes, certainly OK.

Charles

 

[Onyrlef]

The wheels have nothing to do with a permanent set-up. Matter of fact once it's in place you may as well take them off ( but not until after it's blocked and leveled, those wheels would be the only thing between the frame and the ground and you if it fell) If it's on a slab you can use cell blocks ( perpendicular to the frame) capped with treated 2"x8"x16" and/or 1"x8"x16" and oak wedges under the frame ( never let the frame rest on an uncapped cell block or solid cap block, the treated boards provide a cushion between the metal frame and the concrete block). If it's on dirt a 16"x16"x 4" pad or two 8" x16" x4" cap blocks laid side by side as a base pad before stacking the cell blocks. If it's on grass, dig the grass away before placing the base pads or when it dies off the base pads will settle. Were it mine I'd tie it down after the set-up is complete as well as sinking a ground rod for the frame.
You might consider hiring a manufactured home set-up crew to knock it out for you. They could be in and out in an hour or two including tieing it down. They'd likely use a water level on the frame too, which would be much better than a 4' level on the inside floor.

 

[Bobtop46]

You are best to use the bottle jack method and solid blocks for long term. You also need to get the whole thing off the suspension, both sides and front to back, use more piers then you think you need.

 

[Kirk]

I want to move the RV over 4-6 inches but if I do that the right set of the wheels will be on the slab and the left set will be on the lower concrete slab.

If you leave the RV sitting on the wheels, it will move around as people walk inside so once it is leveled you will need to put something under the trailer frame to lift at least part of the weight off of the wheels. In the picture it looks like the lower part is also a concrete slab but at a lower level. If that is the case you can easily block up the frame on each side, but if the low side will be on the ground the supports will settle over time and you will need to relevel occasionally. If you have a solid base under both sides, you would be wise to support the frame and then remove the wheels and store them somewhere.