Hydro Flame model 2334

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Albee9

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Sep 20, 2019
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Hi to All

  I have been trying to get this furnace to work for three weeks now.  (Atwood Hydro Flame model 2334)
Here are the symptoms I turn the unit on blower turns on I hear a click At this point I should be smelling gas I don't I should hear a quick clicking sound from the igniter I don't.

The red LED flashes three times as soon as I turn on the unit.

I've swapped parts out after testing the system with my DVOM just to be sure and I come up with no answers the only parts I don't have is the limit switch and gas valve.
I've tested the limit switch and that seems to be fine.

So I'd like to know if someone can some test procedures I can go by.

P.S I did find two wires in the wrong places on the connectors according to the wiring diagram that I have


Thank you for your time
 

Back2PA

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From what I found 3 flashes indicates ignition lockout. You should check both solenoids on the gas valve with a meter to confirm the valve is good. You may have a bad sail switch. The service manual for your furnace can be found here
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Three flashes means an Open High Limit switch on the 2334 dual-speed model.  It's a Soft error condition, meaning it will auto-reset and retry after one hour.  With the High Limit fault, no attempt at ignition is made, meaning the gas valve stays closed and the igniter does not spark.
 

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Albee9

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Sep 20, 2019
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Gary RV_Wizard said:
Three flashes means an Open High Limit switch. It's a Soft error condition, meaning it will auto-reset and retry after one hour.  With the High Limit fault, no attempt at ignition is made, meaning the gas valve stays closed and the igniter does not spark.

I've checked the limit switch and I get zero ohms meaning there's a connection.
So can it be bad? is there another way to check it to be sure?
 

Albee9

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Thank you for the Docs I'll check it out more see if I can't find the cause
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Since the HiLimit switch has continuity, I'd check the rest of the circuit to/from the controller board. An open or a corroded connection anywhere in there looks the same as as an open switch.  Also, you can jumper the terminals on the board to simulate a closed switch (hi-Limit isnormally-closed).

Of course, a bad board is a possibility too, but I would not leap to that conclusion until everything else is ruled out. Remember that the 2334 dual-speed furnace uses different controller boards than other single-speed Atwoods.
 

Albee9

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Sep 20, 2019
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So I guess I'm testing the gas valve/s since that's the only thing I didn't test .

So can I test using the ohmmeter or should I check it with the voltmeter?
 

Back2PA

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Albee9 said:
So I guess I'm testing the gas valve/s since that's the only thing I didn't test .

So can I test using the ohmmeter or should I check it with the voltmeter?


Ohmmeter. Looking for 30-50 ohms if I recall, on both solenoids. You'll want to disconnect a lead first.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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I wouldn't bother with the gas valve until the problem with the diagnostic light (flashing red) is resolved. Nothing you've described so far indicates a gas problem anyway. The controller has made no attempt to light the burner, so it hasn't opened the gas solenoid or pulsed the igniter yet. Those two things are the very last step in the process.

I don't think you would smell gas in any case.  The controller takes pains to avoid allowing enough gas to escape to smell any - that's why the fan runs first and the solenoid gets shut off immediately if no flame is detected. Gas pressure is only about 0.5 psi, so it's not gushing out.
 

Albee9

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Sep 20, 2019
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Ok, Gary and Back2PA

I want to thank everyone for the help you all have given me.

I'll let you all know the outcome.
 

Albee9

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Sep 20, 2019
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Hello again
  Well, I'm made such a newbie mistake.

I ruled everything out that could be wrong then I remember what Gary said That I needed to find the cause of the diagnostic light (flashing red).

I then looked closely at the wiring diagram and noticed that in the process of diagnosing the high limit switch I connected the wires the wrong way once I fixed that it brought me back to my original diagnosis which was the board that controls the igniter was bad replaced that board and now it's good to go.

Thank you everyone for your help
 

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