here is my cabinet now.The YouTubers re-building the old Class C used them on their project.
here is my cabinet now.The YouTubers re-building the old Class C used them on their project.
ThxThe cabinets look great!
I know I use terms that can mean anything but I am not sure of camper terms I mean I have learned a lot from you guys on here so I apologize about the terms."Work" - nebulous term. But knowing what you're building with I would say you're good. My class A uses 8ga and it "works". Unless you have some specific voltage drop value I would say 6ga will probably be fine. If you have some misgivings, you can directly measure the drop using the proposed length and a nominal load before you install or terminate anything.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
well this is what I came up withTo be sure, you can't run every single device to the fuse panel, there just isn't enough room for the wiring and terminations. So you have to decide what stuff will be direct, generally high current that demands it's own protection vs sundry loads like lights that can be daisy chained.
View attachment 177780
This is a screenshot of my winnebago schematic. Can't read the text at this resolution but it illustrates how some stuff has one device to one fuse, and other stuff has multiple devices wired together external to one fuse. Takes some forethought to balance the currents across the panel but as long as you're organized about it, the wiring at the panel becomes more manageable. It's important to remember that fuses don't protect devices, they protect wiring. Every device doesn't need it's own panel fuse and anything that does require it's own fuse can be fused right at the device.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
so it would be best to run all lights on one circuit, vents fans on one,etc instead of trying to split them up.Only one miscalcuation/typo I see, 3 vents at 5W is 15W not 15A. But you've got plausible numbers for everything so as good an estimation as you will probably need. If you have this many fuse positions available you can be as granular with circuit protection as you like. But you are also making things more complicated with home runs using lots of wire for individual circuits. No question you reach a 6 of one half dozen of another point of circuit/load combinations and if you like having things split up a certain way by function or location, then that's what you do. I would only offer to reserve a spare fuse slot or two for future expansion or change of mind, there's nothing like wanting to add something later and you don't have to shuffle stuff around to fit it in.
Did not see any "accessory" circuits - do you have any power ports for plugging in 12V or USB stuff?
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
I will come up with a plan. So I can be sure I have plenty of wire."Best" is more nebulous than "work". Grouping by function has it's perils, you lose the light circuit and you have no lights at all. Group by area, and you could lose the functionality of an entire room or system. I note in mine, lighting is split up over four fuses. One that runs the bedroom light is connected to a side marker, galley, and porch light. The fridge and dinette are together. The furnace and roof vent share a supply. Maybe there's a formula there that OEM's use to combine circuits but I would bet it's as much convenience in running/connecting the harnesses as it is operationally strategic for fault tolerance. It's going to be a compromise, and this isn't a spacecraft where a mistake will cost lives. If you come up with an arrangement that makes sense to you then run with it. Or maybe download documentation for a unit you consider similar, and see how they did it. If it works you're done, if not then you can blame someone else.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
what is AI and Cu?I also understand you need to consider the distance of wire run as heat created with current resistance.
You need to consider the wire size, distance, and load current. Also I do not think Al wire is as efficient as Cu.
Aluminum and copperwhat is AI and Cu?
Ah ok gotchaAluminum and copper