I am redoing a vintage Camper

[mancave1]

I was given a camper and I do not know the year,make,model but I am assuming its between 1983 and 1995. Anyway I have gutted the RV as it was old and nasty. I am at the point of ready to rewiring it since the wiring was just old looking and a mess.
Anyway I was on another forum but it seems they get attitudes very fast and I know the shoreline plug is 30amp

I have a ac and furnace which I don't know if it works but will assume they do and then I want to wire lights and outlets for simple things like microwaves,tv etc

So here is where I need help/advice.
What gauge wire do I need for the AC and furnace.
What gauge wire do I need for lights?
What gauge wire do I need for outlets.
I was told 8/2 by someone who is a electrician but I feel its wrong.
The other forum said use 12/2 and 14/2, 12 for the ac and furnace and 14 for lights and outlets.

The box I want to get is a 125amp 8 space 12 circuit box so I know I need a 30amp breaker for the shore line. Next is what amp breakers I need for ac,furnace,outlets and lights.

This is what I have come up with. I use 10/2 for AC at a 20 - 30amp breaker,12/2 for furnace at 15-20amp breaker,12/2 for outlets at 20amp breaker,and 14/2 for lights at 15amp breaker

anyway if anyone on here has a 30amp system and has what I mentioned for wire and breakers please help me out and give me some guidance.

Don

 

[Kirk]

First, you need to understand that the furnace, water heater, lights and pretty much everything else uses 12V-dc electricity while the air conditioning, microwave, TV, and all outlets use 120V-ac electricity. The 120V is also supplied to a converter that converts 120V-ac into 12V-dc for supplying the 12V appliances and also recharging the battery. There should be a 120V-ac distribution panel with circuit breakers and a 12V-dc distribution panel with fuses. Let me suggest that before you get too far you should take the time to read The 12V Side of Life, Parts 1 and 2. Also then read RV 120V Electric Systems to complete the basic knowledge needed.

The other forum said use 12/2 and 14/2, 12 for the ac and furnace and 14 for lights and outlets.

I would use 12/2 for the air conditioner, microwave, converter, and outlets but if you have an RV furnace it has no 120V power, only 12V-dc and propane. The lights are also 12V-dc and the general standard for trailer wiring is between 12-16 AWG, but this is largely dependent upon how long the wiring run needs to go and how much power must go through the wire. Longer distances and higher current require larger wire.

 

[mancave1]

First, you need to understand that the furnace, water heater, lights and pretty much everything else uses 12V-dc electricity while the air conditioning, microwave, TV, and all outlets use 120V-ac electricity. The 120V is also supplied to a converter that converts 120V-ac into 12V-dc for supplying the 12V appliances and also recharging the battery. There should be a 120V-ac distribution panel with circuit breakers and a 12V-dc distribution panel with fuses. Let me suggest that before you get too far you should take the time to read The 12V Side of Life, Parts 1 and 2. Also then read RV 120V Electric Systems to complete the basic knowledge needed.

I would use 12/2 for the air conditioner, microwave, converter, and outlets but if you have an RV furnace it has no 120V power, only 12V-dc and propane. The lights are also 12V-dc and the general standard for trailer wiring is between 12-16 AWG, but this is largely dependent upon how long the wiring run needs to go and how much power must go through the wire. Longer distances and higher current require larger wire.

the camper is around 27 feet , its a camper that I have to pull.

yeah I think I do remember the furnace did have smaller wires then I guess I would I would just have a breaker for the shoreline,ac,and outlets

I do plan to use a fuse panel for anything and everything I can that's 12v. it did have a fuse panel I had to pull so I can start fresh.

I will read up on that as I want to do this right. I've never wired a camper. The power converter was all rusted and I saw some damaged wires so I will get a new one for that. I wont have a battery just shoreline for power.

If I could ask. When I use a fuse panel I would hook it to a breaker then hook the other stuff to each fuse? Is that correct? Also the lights would use smaller wire like 16? I saved a lot of that wire so I may be able to reuse it. You think you could draw me a diagram using a breaker box with the wire you mentioned and with a fuse panel?

as I said I am new to wiring a camper so I appreciate all the help/advice I can get

Thanks for your reply.

 

[Rene T]

A trailer that big will have electric brakes so you will need a battery for them. You’ll need what they call a break-a-way switch. There is a steel wire coming out of that switch. You connect that wire to your tow vehicle. If the trailer should break away from the tow vehicle, that cable will pull a pin out of the switch and in turn that battery will sent electrical power to the brakes stopping the trailer. I’m pretty sure It’s the law to have brakes set up that way.

 

[gwinger]

Look into RV distribution panels. They come with circuit breakers for the 120 wiring and a DC converter for 12 volt circuits and battery charging.
This way you have one unit for all the power requirements.

 

[Larry N.]

the camper is around 27 feet , its a camper that I have to pull.

The power converter was all rusted and I saw some damaged wires so I will get a new one for that. I wont have a battery just shoreline for power.

If you're going to tow it you'll need at least a small battery to operate the required breakaway switch for the brakes, and be sure to consider the brakes and associated wiring, as well.

And at some point you'll need to consider a brake controller for the tow vehicle too, if it doesn't already have one. Of course the tail/running lights need to be wired and connected through the electrical plug to the tow vehicle as well.

 

[Kirk]

I will get a new one for that. I wont have a battery just shoreline for power.

You would be wise to have a battery as a backup if power is lost for some reason, you would still have lights and appliances. Do you plan to use this as an RV or will it be permanently parked? If it won't be moved at all you could use more household type appliances. If you plan to tow it the battery is vital to keep the refrigerator running and for breakaway emergency braking.

When I use a fuse panel I would hook it to a breaker then hook the other stuff to each fuse?

The converter should be fed by a 120V circuit breaker and it then should supply the 12V fuse panel.

Also the lights would use smaller wire like 16?

That will depend on what type of lights you use, and how many of them. If I were doing this I would not use less than 14AGW for anything. I would hesitate to reuse much of the old wire unless it looks really good. An advantage to new wire is the fact that you could then go by a proper color code for each circuit so that you know what you have if you ever need to work on it in the future.

 

[mancave1]

You would be wise to have a battery as a backup if power is lost for some reason, you would still have lights and appliances. Do you plan to use this as an RV or will it be permanently parked? If it won't be moved at all you could use more household type appliances. If you plan to tow it the battery is vital to keep the refrigerator running and for breakaway emergency braking.

The converter should be fed by a 120V circuit breaker and it then should supply the 12V fuse panel.

That will depend on what type of lights you use, and how many of them. If I were doing this I would not use less than 14AGW for anything. I would hesitate to reuse much of the old wire unless it looks really good. An advantage to new wire is the fact that you could then go by a proper color code for each circuit so that you know what you have if you ever need to work on it in the future.

I plan to use it on the road one day. I'm not sure how to hook up a battery so lets say I don't use a battery for now.

Would this work for a idea...
I hook the shoreline to the 30amp breaker in box, I use 14/2 for the outlets,lights. I want the ac and furnace on a breaker each using 12/2 ,I also want to break the camper into sections so outlets in a section in on a breaker and lights in the same is on a breaker. I know it would mean more breakers but would make it easy to know what controls what.
I could be over thinking all of this so lets say you were doing it and you had a empty camper what would be first thing you do? like would you get a battery, a converter,breaker box or what.

I just don't want to burn my camper down that's my major concern.

I appreciate you being understanding as well...

thanks for your reply

 

[ferfer]

I know the shoreline plug is 30amp

Since you have removed electrical systems why not install a 50 A system?

Jennifer

 

[Kirk]

You think you could draw me a diagram using a breaker box with the wire you mentioned and with a fuse panel?

 

[Kirk]

I could be over thinking all of this so lets say you were doing it and you had a empty camper what would be first thing you do? like would you get a battery, a converter,breaker box or what.

Have you read the articles in the links that I posted? RVs are not wired like houses. You really do need to understand what you are dealing with first. Most RVs have 6 or fewer 120V circuits. There will be one to supply the converter, one to supply a microwave, one or two for each air conditioner, one circuit for outlets, possibly a separate one for the TV and DVR and such. Some also have one for a 120V heater to supplement the propane heat of the water heater. You will only have a maximum of 30A to work with and the air conditioner alone will draw between 12A & 16A. The converter will sometimes draw as much as 8A. The outlets usually are supplied by a 15A circuit breaker, the a/c needs a 20A breaker, and the others are typically 15A rated circuit breakers.

The number of 12V fuses also varies. The furnace usually has one and others will supply the lights, refrigerator controls, water heater controls, exhaust fans if there is one for kitchen hood and bathroom. Just so that you know a little of my background, I was an electromechanical technician for 40 years, and have owned and maintained my own RVs for 40+ years as well as helping other RV owners do repairs. Gary who posts here has a very similar background and there may be others.

 

[mancave1]

well I already have the cord that came with it so Im just reusing what I can do that's why Im doing the 30amp

I did read them and I understood most of it but not all of it but I do not give up as I keep trying to learn.

I think I may go with the battery idea so first thing I am going to so is get a new box with breakers to wire outlets and AC and furnace. Then when I can afford it I will get a battery and wire up the water pump,lights,trailer lights etc and connect to fuse box

hows that sound?

 

[Kirk]

Before you connect anything you need to have a power distribution panel. While some RVs use a separate power distribution panel for 120V and fuse panel for 12V, buy far the best choice for you probably be to use one of the combination units similar to this one.

If you do use one like this it does include the converter and the converter is already connected to the fuse block so all that is needed for 12V is to connect the battery to the supply side and the 120V to the converter supply. You will also need circuit breakers to fit the panel as you do the 120V side of things.

 

[Arch Hoagland]

Where is the RV located? Is it legal in that area to live in an RV?

 

[rvlifer]

If you ever plan to put solar on that rv you might consider the wiring needed for that and factor that into your plans. I am not saying you need to install solar wiring at this time but it could affect electrical plans for the rv wiring. When we added solar and inverter to our rv we added a 2nd panel for the inverter next to the original making it easy to move circuits from shore power to the inverter and vice versa.

thinking about that stuff now and making sure you have space for everything now can save headaches in the long run

I am not a fan of the plastic rv distribution panels. Many are designed for one time use and have tabs that secure the wires when you push them in. It is hard to remove wires after they are pushed in and they dont always secure the wires properly.

Would love to see pics of your progress. If i do another rv i would consider going this route

 

[oldwildman]

Wiring size is determined by the breaker protecting it. With 120 v, 14 gauge wire is ok on a 15 amp breaker. But, it's not ok on a 20 amp breaker. Same with 12 volt. Not sure of the gauges on that, though. That could easily be found online. If it were me, I'd work backwards. I'd figure out what lighting, appliances etc I was looking to power and work backwards on each individual circuit to the main supply. That way, you can figure out if you can use 30 amp or 50 amp. Or, even less that that if you're not running anything power hungry like a/c.

 

[rvlifer]

Good summary of wiring gauge needed for 120v here

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/electrical/90650/all-about-wire-gauges

12 volt. They go into a lot of detail but there is a table making it easy to figure out partway down

https://learnmetrics.com/12v-wire-size-calculator-chart/

 

[mancave1]

Before you connect anything you need to have a power distribution panel. While some RVs use a separate power distribution panel for 120V and fuse panel for 12V, buy far the best choice for you probably be to use one of the combination units similar to this one.

View attachment 175765
If you do use one like this it does include the converter and the converter is already connected to the fuse block so all that is needed for 12V is to connect the battery to the supply side and the 120V to the converter supply. You will also need circuit breakers to fit the panel as you do the 120V side of things.

I actually love this item. I will be getting this for sure. it helps having that converter built in.

I am not sure if this is the make or model but it has wilderness on it but I'm afraid that's all I can make out since a lot is faded out.

do you have a recommendation for a battery size and how many? I plan to convert a closet that is above the furnace to a utility closet so I can have the box,batteries and so forth in one location.

I have to say this forum is better then the other one. Thanks for your help as I will be asking more on other topics.

 

[mancave1]

I plan to get a 125amp breaker box with 8 spaces and of course a 30amp breaker for the shore line to start off with

 

[mancave1]

If you ever plan to put solar on that rv you might consider the wiring needed for that and factor that into your plans. I am not saying you need to install solar wiring at this time but it could affect electrical plans for the rv wiring. When we added solar and inverter to our rv we added a 2nd panel for the inverter next to the original making it easy to move circuits from shore power to the inverter and vice versa.

thinking about that stuff now and making sure you have space for everything now can save headaches in the long run

I am not a fan of the plastic rv distribution panels. Many are designed for one time use and have tabs that secure the wires when you push them in. It is hard to remove wires after they are pushed in and they dont always secure the wires properly.

Would love to see pics of your progress. If i do another rv i would consider going this route

I will keep this in mind for sure. I have some pics but its more demo stuff then anything.