It would save about 70lbs but lighten your wallet immensely.For those who care...the lithium option would also save around 70 pounds. If towing a TT and close to the TV cargo weight, the weight off the tongue might be a consideration
I don't know about that; have you looked at the Amazon prices for Lipo4 batteries lately. Some are nearly the same as AGM batteries, most are under $400.It would save about 70lbs but lighten your wallet immensely.
The 300-AH battery I purchased in 2021 for $1,400.00 should cost $1,603.34 today just because of inflation. But today it cost $870.00, close to half that price.Some are a lot under, the LiTime 100AH with 100A BMS is only $259 on Amazon right now after coupon, and has a 5 year warranty and 10 year expected service life
So do I. I have the 300AH in each of my two RVs. An added system in my Class A. In place of the two main L-A house batteries in my Class C.He likes Li-Time a lot.
I have a 40’ Class A rig with a residential refrigerator and all kinds of electrical goodies. We boondocked 10 consecutive weeks this winter. The issue isn’t a residential refrigerator;it is sizing your battery bank to the power you need. Max and Eric’s 5er battery was not sized for the refrigerator. The manufacturer was not accounting for boondocking in their design, so if they want to do it they will have to do some modifications. Lots of folks have posted good suggestions.
We have room for more batteries.How much room do you have for batteries?
It now says the price is $780.00. Did they drop the price again or did I read it incorrectly last time?But today it cost $870.00, close to half that price.
It’ll be be getting toasty. Be prepared to run for electric hookups and a/c. But have fun and enjoy the practice.In the next few weeks we are headed to Valley of Fire outside of Vegas and plan to boondock. It will be a good opportunity for us to check out what we need for boondocking.
The problem with using the number on the nameplate isn't only that it doesn't factor in the duty cycle. It can be an inaccurate number to use even if you know the duty cycle because the number on the nameplate is the maximum power an appliance will draw.So maybe instead of trying to extrapolate the nameplate power draw of a given fridge in RV service, maybe start with the energy guide number since it's more representative of "typical" use factoring in duty cycle.