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I replaced the battery so now it starts I'm going to leave it in service till we use it next. Probably should change the house batteries also.
 
When I'm plugged into shore power, isn't my battery normally being maintained by it? I know how to check that, but I've never heard of having to throw a switch.
Most motorhomes have a switch (often by the door) that turns off the DC to most of the coach. Depending on how the rig is wired, this often also turns off charging of the batteries.
 
Well, new battery and I left the battery switch in service, it is plugged in and put to bed till our next trip.
 

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Some charger/inverters have a “de-sulifde” feature, which if used properly, can really extend battery life! The key words being, used properly.....which I neglect to do often enough! memtb
 
I now keep my Y2K RV plugged in all the time as my solar (for both house and separate for engine battery) doesn't work all that well under the large trees in Auburn, CA.

I added in a 2 amp battery maintainer to keep the engine battery charged. It's plugged in more for that than for the lith house battery. I have the lith house battery on 175 amp Anderson connectors, so it is very easy to unplug and then have no external drain at all.

Another option is to also disconnect the engine battery and not have any shore power.

But I figure the battery maintainer is the best for the engine battery, it shuts off as necessary when the battery is fully charged.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
You need 1) a multi-stage converter that won't boil the batteries, but properly maintain them, and 2) you need a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start to keep the chassis battery charged, and 3) you need the battery switch (aka "salesman's switch") left on so everything gets charged and works.

I had a small class C on a Sprinter chassis and used it a couple of times a month to make grocery runs or other errands, to keep it running.

Charles
 
I opened up the RV cover to load supplies for our winter trip and the steps wouldn't come out. I have left this plugged in since I covered it in early September. The battery connect switch was in the on position. My lights and slides work because it is plugged in but all the batteries are dead including the brand new chassis battery. The rig won't start I'll have to jump start the battery to start it up.
 
I opened up the RV cover to load supplies for our winter trip and the steps wouldn't come out. I have left this plugged in since I covered it in early September. The battery connect switch was in the on position. My lights and slides work because it is plugged in but all the batteries are dead including the brand new chassis battery. The rig won't start I'll have to jump start the battery to start it up.
So, what happened?
Butch
 
I opened up the RV cover to load supplies for our winter trip and the steps wouldn't come out. I have left this plugged in since I covered it in early September. The battery connect switch was in the on position.
The steps are probably powered from the chassis battery and that is dead. Did you try to start the engine? Some brands of coach do NOT charge the chassis battery from shore power.
 
Do you think that the se
The steps are probably powered from the chassis battery and that is dead. Did you try to start the engine? Some brands of coach do NOT charge the chassis battery from shore power.
Do you think the Security system I have on my rig is draining the chassis battery. Yes, you are correct, the steps are connected to the chassis battery because as soon as I hooked up the charger the steps started to come out. I was thinking about taking the rig to a battery place to test the house batteries they are also drained, but they may have been bad when I bought the rig last January. The battery place said I have to put the charger on them for a day before I bring it in because they can't test a dead battery. I'm almost positive the chassis battery will fire up the rig tomorrow after a charge. The battery was bought in September of this year.
 
So I guess the takeaway here is if the rig has battery issues when put into storage, it will have battery issues coming out of storage.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
So I guess the takeaway here is if the rig has battery issues when put into storage, it will have battery issues coming out of storage.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
The deeper I get into this problem the more I find out. The steps going in and out every time we decide to put something in the rig drains the Chassis Battery. The chassis battery is only charged by the alternator. I checked my panel levels and it showed 100% 12 volt power. So I guess the shore power is keeping those batteries charged. I am going to take it to a battery dealer and have them check my batteries, because the house batteries could be old.
 
The dealer chassis battery test might tell you something but that kind of test does not reveal merit of storage batteries. A timed discharge test is what you'd do to verify the house batteries. No matter what the status of the batteries is, a review of the converter and any chassis battery charge provision should be done to understand how and when they should be working. In a perfect world we'd treat RV's like a phone and just plug it in without a second thought, but RV's don't enjoy that degree of integration.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
The steps going in and out every time we decide to put something in the rig drains the Chassis Battery.
Certainly it would. All my rigs have (had) a switch (near the door) to control step operation such that in one position the steps would open/close with the door, regardless of the ignition switch, but in the other position, with the engine/ignition off, they'd extend when you first open the door and stay extended until you turn on the ignition (with the door closed). If you have such a switch it might help.
 
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