Improving Handling on a Pleasure Way Pursuit

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Original Member Title: Need Advice for Motorhome Handling
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A member who moved from a Pleasure Way Lexor TS van to a 2013 Pleasure Way Pursuit was concerned about roll, sway, wind push, and semi-truck buffeting. A suspension shop recommended Bilstein shocks, front bearing service, stronger rear leaf springs because the rear sits low, and slightly lower tire pressure, while not recommending sway bars or SumoSprings. The shocks had already helped, and the member was considering a Safe-T-Plus and possibly an alignment after the rear spring work...
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IWUGrad

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2020
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52
Location
Indiana
Hello all, I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death, but a search didn't bring up any matches to my questions.

I owned a 2007 Pleasure Way Lexor TS camper van for 6 years, and loved everything about it, except the interior height, and having to "build" the bathroom and shower. We are planning to spend more time away in it, like 3-4 weeks at a time and wanted more living space. We love Pleasure Way as a brand so we decided to upgrade to a 2013 Pursuit.

I did not expect the vast difference in driving the Pursuit vs the Lexor. At this point, I'm terrified to get on the road. The roll and sway and push from wind and semi trucks is white knuckling to say the least. I took it to a specialty suspension shop near me and this is what they said I needed to do:

1. Add Bilstein shocks to front and rear
2. Repack and grease front wheel bearings
3. Beef up rear leaf springs. Rear is sitting low due to weight
4. Lower tire pressure a bit

They do not recommend sway bars or sumo springs. The shocks are already on, and that made a big difference in roll, but the wheel still has too much play for my liking. They are saying the leaf upgrade will level out the RV and accommodate the weight distribution better. I also want to add a safe-t-plus, and after the springs are on, get an alignment.

Sorry I know this is long, Does this sound like a reasonable plan or am I spending money that won't solve my problem? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
 
IMO the basic problem is simply too much coach for a Ford E350 van chassis. It can maybe be helped, but I doubt if it will ever be "good" as far as ride & handling goes. I suspect that "special chassis shop" agrees with that, since they didn't really suggest much in the way of chassis upgrades. You can only do so much with that chassis. What is the Pursuits gross weight when loaded for travel? The E350 maxes out at 12,500 lbs GVWR and is unlikely to handle decently at any weight approaching that. "Beefing up" the rear springs can level it up and firm things a bit, but it doesn't add to the GVWR.

A Safe-T-Plus will give you a bit more confidence by firming up the steering wheel action. And a rear track bar might help control the side roll & push somewhat. An alignment won't do either and I wouldn't spend the money on it without some evidence that there is an actual alignment issue, e.g.uneven tire wear or a pull to one side or the other.
 
Is that 2013 pursuit a Pleasure Way Pursuit or a Coachmen Pursuit? It appears Gary assumed it is the Pleasure Way, in which case he hit the nail on the head.
 
If you have excessive play in the steering wheel that means excessive wear in the front suspension. That is dangerous and will be expensive to replace. The rear springs sagging means that RV was likely overloaded with too much weight all its life.

It is worn out and there will be more problems than you've already found. I hope you got it cheap. You will likely lose money if you sell it. But fixing it up may cost more than trading it for one in better shape.
 
If you have excessive play in the steering wheel that means excessive wear in the front suspension. That is dangerous and will be expensive to replace. The rear springs sagging means that RV was likely overloaded with too much weight all its life.

It is worn out and there will be more problems than you've already found. I hope you got it cheap. You will likely lose money if you sell it. But fixing it up may cost more than trading it for one in better shape.
I may have over exaggerated the play, it's more of when getting pushed by wind or trucks that I feel like I have to correct a lot. The suspension shop didn't mention any excessive wear.
 
IMO the basic problem is simply too much coach for a Ford E350 van chassis. It can maybe be helped, but I doubt if it will ever be "good" as far as ride & handling goes. I suspect that "special chassis shop" agrees with that, since they didn't really suggest much in the way of chassis upgrades. You can only do so much with that chassis. What is the Pursuits gross weight when loaded for travel? The E350 maxes out at 12,500 lbs GVWR and is unlikely to handle decently at any weight approaching that. "Beefing up" the rear springs can level it up and firm things a bit, but it doesn't add to the GVWR.

A Safe-T-Plus will give you a bit more confidence by firming up the steering wheel action. And a rear track bar might help control the side roll & push somewhat. An alignment won't do either and I wouldn't spend the money on it without some evidence that there is an actual alignment issue, e.g.uneven tire wear or a pull to one side or the other.
Thank you! That's great information. I think I need to go to a weigh station and figure out just how heavy it is when loaded. I have learned a lesson to do more due diligence. I see so many class C's and A's on the road, I never imagined so many people were dealing with this same issue and being worn out when they reach their destination. The day I drove it home for 3 hours it was a super windy day and I assumed that under more normal conditions I wouldn't feel it as much. I don't notice significant pull one way or the other so I'll hold off on alignment. The wife is ready to string me up as we were perfectly content driving the van LOL.
 
Thank you! That's great information. I think I need to go to a weigh station and figure out just how heavy it is when loaded. I have learned a lesson to do more due diligence. I see so many class C's and A's on the road, I never imagined so many people were dealing with this same issue and being worn out when they reach their destination. The day I drove it home for 3 hours it was a super windy day and I assumed that under more normal conditions I wouldn't feel it as much. I don't notice significant pull one way or the other so I'll hold off on alignment. The wife is ready to string me up as we were perfectly content driving the van LOL.
don't know if it is useful information but our 40' Horizon with ifs bumps a bit when trucks pass and can easily be handles with one hand on the wheel.
 
I think I need to go to a weigh station and figure out just how heavy it is when loaded.
Don't go to a highway department weight station as you won't be welcome there but you can use the scales at major truck stops and get individual axel weights. Better yet would be to get the weights of individual wheels, but that can be difficult to locate. If you can locate a scale that doesn't have a side barrier you could weigh twice, once with all wheels on the scale and a second time with one side centered on the pads and the other not on the scale, then just subtract to get each side. Overloading could easily be part of the problem but weight distribution if far off will also impact handling.
 
Don't go to a highway department weight station as you won't be welcome there but you can use the scales at major truck stops and get individual axel weights. Better yet would be to get the weights of individual wheels, but that can be difficult to locate. If you can locate a scale that doesn't have a side barrier you could weigh twice, once with all wheels on the scale and a second time with one side centered on the pads and the other not on the scale, then just subtract to get each side. Overloading could easily be part of the problem but weight distribution if far off will also impact handling.
Thank you! Great information.
 
I never imagined so many people were dealing with this same issue and being worn out when they reach their destination.
I have a P32 workhorse and can't picture what it's like to not get tossed around on the interstate. After reading on the forums all the gyrations and major dollars folks have done for marginal imrovement, I concluded you can't turn a P32 into a prevost. So why bother. These RV's amount to a crappy house on a delivery truck. You're never getting a luxury ride from a chassis made to move amazon boxes. Maybe some builders take care and do what they can to accommodate the limits of the chassis but I would guess that number is small. Messing with tire pressures, changing shocks, maybe putting in a sway or panhard bar might have some benefit but just planting the seed there's no turning these sow's ears into silk purses. I met a vendor at Quartzsite some years ago selling a package that promised I would 'love my P32' when they were done. Even if it were true it was almost 10 grand - I don't love my RV that much. Years and tens of thousands of miles later the P32 and I have an understanding. It gets me where I need to go, to do the things I like to do. I got used to the crappy ride and bad handling such that it no longer bothers me. Maybe the next one will be better but I bet it won't - that's not how they're made. So careful how far down this rabbit hole you go changing out working parts instead of making memories.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Mark, my P32 chassis Safari Trek already had most of the suspension improvements on it when I bought it in 2016, and since then I have continued to add a few, as well as keep up with maintenance, replace worn suspension parts, etc. In fact I just finished installing a new Bell Crank Arm and Drag Link last week. But on the point of handling, the 2 things I have done that improved the P32 highway performance the most was adding rear helper airbags with in cab compressor control so that I could tune the rear suspension to match highway conditions, ie raise pressure when I had smooth pavement and cross winds, lower it for rough pavement, etc. The other thing I did that by far had the biggest effect was to change the brand and model of tires, which took me a while as the Hercules brand tires on it when I bought it were only 2 years old, in 2021 I switched to Sumitomo ST719 load range F tires and WOW that made a huge difference, to the point where I kept finding myself driving around 10+ mph faster than I thought I was going as the ride was THAT MUCH better.
 
I have a P32 workhorse and can't picture what it's like to not get tossed around on the interstate. After reading on the forums all the gyrations and major dollars folks have done for marginal imrovement, I concluded you can't turn a P32 into a prevost. So why bother. These RV's amount to a crappy house on a delivery truck. You're never getting a luxury ride from a chassis made to move amazon boxes. Maybe some builders take care and do what they can to accommodate the limits of the chassis but I would guess that number is small. Messing with tire pressures, changing shocks, maybe putting in a sway or panhard bar might have some benefit but just planting the seed there's no turning these sow's ears into silk purses. I met a vendor at Quartzsite some years ago selling a package that promised I would 'love my P32' when they were done. Even if it were true it was almost 10 grand - I don't love my RV that much. Years and tens of thousands of miles later the P32 and I have an understanding. It gets me where I need to go, to do the things I like to do. I got used to the crappy ride and bad handling such that it no longer bothers me. Maybe the next one will be better but I bet it won't - that's not how they're made. So careful how far down this rabbit hole you go changing out working parts instead of making memories.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Thank you for this post. My wife and I were just talking about this. We said we’d do things to make it feel safer, but it had to have a stopping point. I said that I believed over time I’d get used to the drive and it would perhaps become second nature. You’re exactly right. Making memories is what it’s all about.
 
I did add a steering stabilizer (Blue ox Tru Center) to my Workhorse. helped
Also a trac bar. Trac bars are the one thing they forget on RV's.
I recall back in what was it 60s or 70s they started making pickup trucks with "Independent front suspension" Well the reason was not ride improvement so much as handling.. a Trac bar ... same handling improvement.

I will let others explain in detail but basically leaf springs allow the body to move right/left over the sold axel. Trac bars "Disallow" this.
 
don't know if it is useful information but our 40' Horizon with ifs bumps a bit when trucks pass and can easily be handles with one hand on the wheel.
I'm another one hand driver. The only time I have both hands on the wheel is during strong wind conditions or when facing significant traffic on a two lane road. And that's only because of potential tire failures.

I removed the steering stabilizer several years ago and believe our 36 foot motorhome handles just as well without it. A steering stabilizer is designed to bring the vehicle back to center after being pushed to the side by either wind or a passing vehicle. That's exactly what my arm does while I'm driving. For me, it's an automatic response. And a response I believe improves over time.

When my wife drives the motorhome, she's all over the road. Same motorhome, same road and with one exception, same driving conditions. The exception is wind. I would not let her drive during strong wind conditions.

Think about it. I believe it drives extremely well. My wife will not drive it because she can't keep it going straight.
 
Leverage is the cause of wind effects like a passing semi truck.

A long rear overhang behind the rear axle is the usual cause of wind effects due to leverage. Its like having a sail pushing the back sideways. Another leverage effect is just 1/4" of play in the rear axle translates to several inches of movement of the body.

Either way a Panhard bar completely stops the lateral (left to right) movement of the body by securing it directly to the rear axle. Especially effective in an older vehicle where suspension parts are worn.

But, on an RV a panhard bar should be accompanied by stiffer springs. Otherwise there is an increased vertical leverage effect due to the height of an RV body causing more body roll.
 
And I do have to say this again. The bigger the difference in speed between your RV and a passing semi the more sideways effect you will experience. Try NOT slowing down when a semi starts to pass.

If you've ever been stopped on the shoulder and you're passed by a semi doing 75 your RV will almost blow over. Even an SUV feels like it will be blown off the road.

There is no mathematical equation needed here. The obvious reason is when you are stopped the semi doing 75 is a hurricane force wind on your vehicle. If you are doing 70 its a 5 mph wind.
 
At least with mine I feel the "bow wave" and "stern suction" alone from even a slowly passing truck. Just a car passing can be felt. Crosswinds amplify the effect.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
At least with mine I feel the "bow wave" and "stern suction" alone from even a slowly passing truck. Just a car passing can be felt. Crosswinds amplify the effect.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
I believe all drivers feel those affects. The difference IMHO is the drivers response. For new owners, experiencing a strong wind or the affects of a passing vehicle can be disconcerting. For long term owners, it is a known condition and becomes an expected event which, for the most part, is simply ignored or at least does not raise a red flag.
 

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