Improving Handling on a Pleasure Way Pursuit

[Gary RV_Wizard]

When my wife drives the motorhome, she's all over the road. Same motorhome, same road and with one exception, same driving conditions. The exception is wind. I would not let her drive during strong wind conditions.

Think about it. I believe it drives extremely well. My wife will not drive it because she can't keep it going straight.

The driver is indeed a major factor in handling, at least as far as directional stability is concerned. It's a learned skill that some have difficulty acquiring. Basically the driver have to focus the eyes further down the road in front of the RV so that natural parallax straightens the aim. That's really hard to bring yourself to do if the RV is zig-zagging between lane markers or you are intently watching the mirrors for other traffic. Requires a leap of faith, I guess.

Search the web to find articles to help inexperienced drivers gain confidence to drive better.

 

[garyb1st]

The driver is indeed a major factor in handling, at least as far as directional stability is concerned. It's a learned skill that some have difficulty acquiring. Basically the driver have to focus the eyes further down the road in front of the RV so that natural parallax straightens the aim.

IIRC, you wrote an article on the subject. The article was very helpful in understand the dynamics of driving a large vehicle. I believe it was in the library. If not currently a sticky in the Motorhome Forum it might be a worthwhile addition.

 

[jymbee]

Basically the driver have to focus the eyes further down the road in front of the RV so that natural parallax straightens the aim.

Exactly. IMO that should be the very first thing new coach drivers need to learn.

Driving through a narrow construction area for example with concrete barriers on the right side and semis passing on the left, for some it's nerve-racking as they constantly over correct left then right.

Doing as you say, looking further down the road, and realizing that you probably have a bit more room that you realize, makes it more manageable. Also relaxing the white knuckle death grip on the steering wheel, and relaxing your shoulders also helps.

 

[RayIN]

I'm another one hand driver. The only time I have both hands on the wheel is during strong wind conditions or when facing significant traffic on a two lane road. And that's only because of potential tire failures.

I removed the steering stabilizer several years ago and believe our 36 foot motorhome handles just as well without it. A steering stabilizer is designed to bring the vehicle back to center after being pushed to the side by either wind or a passing vehicle. That's exactly what my arm does while I'm driving. For me, it's an automatic response. And a response I believe improves over time.

When my wife drives the motorhome, she's all over the road. Same motorhome, same road and with one exception, same driving conditions. The exception is wind. I would not let her drive during strong wind conditions.

Think about it. I believe it drives extremely well. My wife will not drive it because she can't keep it going straight.

Hi Gary,
One thing taught in a MH driving school years ago was looking ahead. In a car one focuses on the road immediately in front of them; in a MH they taught to focus on the road at least one block ahead of the MH. It helps to prevent the seesawing while trying to remain in the center of the lane, while allowing for normal shifting due to ruts in the pavement left by semi's. Those ruts are different widths than a MH track, so it's constantly hunting to get back in the ruts.
Hope that reads logically.

 

[Larry N.]

In a car one focuses on the road immediately in front of them;

One shouldn't do that. One should look farther ahead, just as in a truck, bicycle or motorcycle. Of course how far, even in a motorhome, is dependent on traffic and other factors, but the principles are the same regardless of the type of vehicle. But you also really need to keep your eyes moving in order to assess conditions near and far, including side roads, driveways, etc., etc. -- as the Ohio Highway Patrol said when I was a kid (and hopefully still do), get the big picture.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

IIRC, you wrote an article on the subject. The article was very helpful in understand the dynamics of driving a large vehicle. I believe it was in the library. If not currently a sticky in the Motorhome Forum it might be a worthwhile addition.

My old "Motorhome Handling" article is in the Resources library at Motorhome Handling Problems and Solutions

It doesn't address the newbie driver part of the problem. I started an article on that but never finished because it became apparent that words didn't suffice and I needed to re-do it as a video. Never got around to that, though.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Hi Gary,
One thing taught in a MH driving school years ago was looking ahead. In a car one focuses on the road immediately in front of them; in a MH they taught to focus on the road at least one block ahead of the MH. It helps to prevent the seesawing while trying to remain in the center of the lane, while allowing for normal shifting due to ruts in the pavement left by semi's. Those ruts are different widths than a MH track, so it's constantly hunting to get back in the ruts.
Hope that reads logically.

Yes, that's one of the keys to success but it can be difficult to gain enough confidence to do that. Especially in traffic. The difference in the driver position (cab forward) vs a car or pickup let's you see up-close but it also throws off your years of driving experience, both in analysis and reaction. You over-correct, which begins a vicious cycle of zig-zags. And you worry about those zig-zags so you start watching the mirrors too much, further exacerbating the focal distance problem. You have to get on a near-empty road, take a deep breath, and force yourself to look 50-100 yards ahead, and drive until you learn to trust yourself.

 

[IWUGrad]

Loving reading all of these replies. I got the RV back from the suspension shop last week and took it out on the expressway for about 45 minutes. There is a world of difference. I barely noticed semi trucks passing me when I was at 65 MPH. Before I would have been tossed all over and I would have had to slow down quite a bit. I was able to relax my hands and shoulders and felt much more comfortable with a light grip on the wheel. So, I'd say the upgrades were a success. I haven't been out in strong winds yet though.

Now, if I could only get a bit softer ride. The smallest bumps seem to just jar the back end. I went to a CAT Scale with my wife and I inside, a full fresh water tank, most of the supplies we would normally have with us except clothes and food, so maybe 100 lbs pushing it? And a full tank of gas. These are my numbers:

Steer Axle: 3840
Drive Axle: 7780
Gross Weight: 11620

My GVWR is 12500 so I'm 880 lbs under weight. Searches say to lower my tire pressure for the load weight and not the full weight. Is that safe, and/or will it even help? AI says Sumo Springs in Front Only and lower tire pressure to rear 60 psi and front 55 psi. I feel like lowering tire pressure will make the handling worse again. Any advice on the ride would be appreciated. The wife HATES riding in the RV.

 

[Kirk]

Adjusting the tire inflation to the proper pressure for the wheel weight will not only give you a better ride, but it will increase the tire life and should improve the handling. You should inflate the tires based upon the inflation tables supplied by the tire manufacturer for the tire you use.

 

[IWUGrad]

Adjusting the tire inflation to the proper pressure for the wheel weight will not only give you a better ride, but it will increase the tire life and should improve the handling. You should inflate the tires based upon the inflation tables supplied by the tire manufacturer for the tire you use.

Got it. Thank you. I am an idiot and didn't realize that the weight on the chart is per tire, or dual set. I was thinking it was the entire axle. This is all making sense now.

 

[garyb1st]

Adjusting the tire inflation to the proper pressure for the wheel weight will not only give you a better ride, but it will increase the tire life and should improve the handling. You should inflate the tires based upon the inflation tables supplied by the tire manufacturer for the tire you use.

Agree. If you can find a facility that will weigh each tire individually that will give you the best result. As Kirk says, get a tire inflation table and air each tire accordingly. It will reduce vehicle bounce caused by over inflated tires. It's also the cheapest way to eliminate one of the variables that affect how well the vehicle handles bad roads.

 

[IWUGrad]

Agree. If you can find a facility that will weigh each tire individually that will give you the best result. As Kirk says, get a tire inflation table and air each tire accordingly. It will reduce vehicle bounce caused by over inflated tires. It's also the cheapest way to eliminate one of the variables that affect how well the vehicle handles bad roads.

Thank you. Will do. I'll see what I can find near me. If nothing else, I'm only 1.5 hours from Elkhart, IN.

 

[Larry N.]

Got it. Thank you. I am an idiot and didn't realize that the weight on the chart is per tire, or dual set. I was thinking it was the entire axle. This is all making sense now.

The chart weight is per tire, but all tires on the axle should have the same pressure, so you may need to compromise a bit if the per wheel actual weights are different on that axle.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

If you weigh PER AXLE, then just divide by the number of wheels attached to that axle,, its close enough and in many cases will improve the ride AND handling.. The other thing to consider is the tendency for an RV to GAIN WEIGHT ,, in my 28 years of ownership mine has gained 750 pounds>>>Dan

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Driving thru concrete barriers is mostly an illusion,, its no different than staying between the lines..>>>Dan

 

[PancakeBill]

One thing I learned riding two wheels, you go where you look. Looking at the wall, taking your chances. on the bike, looking between the 2 rocks takes you between.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The chart weight is per tire,

With this one exception: In Michelin's RV Tire Guide, the chart is per axle end, i.e. on a dual axle the weight is what the dual pair will carry. Not the individual tire. That's the only inflation chart I know that is done that way (even the other Michelin charts), and it has caused a lot of confusion.

 

[Larry N.]

With this one exception: In Michelin's RV Tire Guide, the chart is per axle end,

Thanks, Gary- I'd not come across that. A good thing to know.