Interior door - surface repair

[scottydl]

Not really a “remodeling” question but still interior upkeep that I figured this group may know.

My fifth wheel’s interior doors have a fake wood surface that appears to be contact paper of some kind. It’s peeling off in some areas (probably from heat and humidity exposure over the years) and the previous owner glued back down in some spots… although with “lumpy” results. (See photos)

Any ideas on the right kind of adhesive and technique to stick this surface back on, with decent results?

 

[rvlifer]

If is is really paper wood glue. If thick paper or more of a vinyl gorilla glue or 2 part epoxy. Gorilka glue works great but both surfaces should be damp so it cures properly. It will be a permanent fix but expands so will be harder to get the surfacw to sit properly. I would use a roller to try to get as many air bubbles out and a board clamped to the door in multiple places to put pressure on as much of what you are trying to glue as possible till the glue cures.

 

[scottydl]

I was thinking of a rubber hand roller too. Not sure the previous owner did that, and there may not be any way to smooth out what’s already been re-glued.

The material does seem to have a plastic-y quality to it, so it sounds like gorilla glue or epoxy will be the way to go.

 

[Boat Bum]

I would suggest trying a spray headliner adhesive. It will allow you to coat both sides equally by spraying and you let it sit a minute while it gets tacky and then press together and smooth it out using a pin for bubbles.

However, from looking at it I would probably look to remove and refinish the surface depending on what's underneath .

 

[gwinger]

I had that happen on the cupboard door. I tried to peel off the "vinyl?" using a heat gun. It was so thin that is just ended up coming of in pieces.
I removed the vinyl paper from all three rails and spray painted them with a contrasting color.

 

[rvlifer]

there may not be any way to smooth out what’s already been re-glued.

Depends on what the prev owner used for glue. I wouldnt count on being able to peel it back up to re-glue it.

If you really hate the look of the door with repair patches door replacement is the way to go but drastic. If you are ok with painting the doors and they arent exposed to moisture you could pull off the bubbly stuff and use drywall mud to smooth out the imperfections. Good bit of work but it works. If you think drywall mud is a bad idea then a good wood filler such as timber mate is better.

https://www.amazon.com/Timbermate-Red-Hardwood-Wood-Filler/dp/B001NSXJ6U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2Y3LAJ9I4PF6B&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.otCl6W_kfjbiCzr35bZuOEkDHQbBADMNFPt7taTSc9aaQj9SGFDHTaYowuqrR2kVHtI1SbVz5JbBudugSa6CYTvLxLEIzRAFGUOcbudECF4l-x5Hqd5Y94k5WvW5bTtTADRyVrxAYKPG7e5PAYgCHlLg5OnoOav2ZFzWTSqFPJ8oQQ5dhG4vMhA1-dQhuEFyr9cHnzwknmbtSDuh-ouOlQ.pbAOygY50Udsg3D54U7pQTBSXbF03YocZvimfmBLPRs&dib_tag=se&keywords=timber+mate+wood+fill&qid=1732909295&sprefix=timber+mate%2Caps%2C223&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

i would not use a plastic based wood filler. Timber mate is water based so you can keep watering it down to keep the consistency you want. They are all designed to fill holes so it isnt easy to try to feather edges but it can be done.

A stronger option is to cut out the bumps, fill the seams with 2 part epoxy, let it fully cure at least 24 hrs then sand smooth but sanding the paper finish probably will tear it up and make it even worse and it would need to be painted anyways.

The benefit of the drywall mud is that it can be smoothed with a damp sponge instead of painted.

Depends on how good you want it to look and how much work you want to put into it. They can be fixed but no easy options

 

[Bigfoot88]

I have been restoring wood furniture for many years and have seen all kinds of veneers. As someone said the type if repair all depends on the look you want and how much time an effort you want to put into it. Smoothing out the dents and bumps and painting will be the easiest. If you want it to look like the rest of the door, you have to options. 1 re glue the pieces that a loose and curling up. That will require a good glue and clamps and roller. 2 You can remove the veneer that is peeling, buy some new wood veneer to replace the peeling contact paper. Cut the new veneer to size, coat both sides with contact cement, and when cement is just dry stick the new veneer in place and roll to stick flat. You need to take care when you start to stick it in place that you do it slowly such as not to leave any air pockets. The bubbled area where the previous owner tried to reglue it you will need to remove all the contact paper veneer from the pannel before you can put on new wood veneer

 

[rvlifer]

I have been restoring wood furniture for many years and have seen all kinds of veneers. As someone said the type if repair all depends on the look you want and how much time an effort you want to put into it. Smoothing out the dents and bumps and painting will be the easiest. If you want it to look like the rest of the door, you have to options. 1 re glue the pieces that a loose and curling up. That will require a good glue and clamps and roller. 2 You can remove the veneer that is peeling, buy some new wood veneer to replace the peeling contact paper. Cut the new veneer to size, coat both sides with contact cement, and when cement is just dry stick the new veneer in place and roll to stick flat. You need to take care when you start to stick it in place that you do it slowly such as not to leave any air pockets. The bubbled area where the previous owner tried to reglue it you will need to remove all the contact paper veneer from the pannel before you can put on new wood veneer

When i first looked at the pics i thought they had moulding between the panels and rail and stiles. Not sure if those are the right terms on a door like this but when i look again the panels are inset withou moulding. Do you have any tips for how to handle the visible edges and moulding when you redo the laminate? I never have been able to get a decent look with laminates unless i cover the corners

 

[gwinger]

A lot of the doors and drawers are not real wood, but MDF covered with a paper vinyl look material. These pieces are already covered, then rabbited before the panels are inserted. Saves cost and weight.
Most inexpensive furniture is made the same way.

 

[Bigfoot88]

When i first looked at the pics i thought they had moulding between the panels and rail anWd stiles. Not sure if those are the right terms on a door like this but when i look again the panels are inset withou moulding. Do you have any tips for how to handle the visible edges and moulding when you redo the laminate? I never have been able to get a decent look with laminates unless i cover the corners

If you replace the veneer with wood veneer, you will need to stain and varnish it before it is finished. When you are finishing the new veneer, you can take some dark paint and touch up the edges of the visible edges

 

[gwinger]

If you replace the veneer with wood veneer, you will need to stain and varnish it before it is finished. When you are finishing the new veneer, you can take some dark paint and touch up the edges of the visible edges

Veneer is an option, but it does take time and some special tools. A veneer edger, a veneer cutter and a router with a flush cutting bit. Plus the veneer is not inexpensive.

 

[Onyrlef]

Contact cement will work, you'd do it the same way as if doing formica. Cover both surfaces, let it dry and then press them together being careful as you only get one shot at it, so avoid air pockets and wrinkles. Once the surfaces touch that's it. You can also try a spray on adhesive, for a permanent job you'd spray both surfaces, let it tack up, then press them together. The best I've used is "Sta-Put" brand in a green and white can. 3M will work as well.

 

[gwinger]

Using contact cement. Make sure it's dry and put a piece of cardboard between the surfaces and slowly pull it out while rolling the two pieces together.
One thing though. The solvent based ones may soften the paper/vinyl. There are water based ones that help eliminate this problem.

 

[Boat Bum]

A credit card will work in a pinch to smooth it out as you apply.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

This isn't an heirloom restoration. Nothing is more time efficient and straightforward than landfilling that door and putting a new one in. It was a POS the day it was made, any bandaids done today amount to lipstick on a pig.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[scottydl]

I don’t necessarily disagree with you Mark however the doors still function perfectly fine. This really is (for me) a minor cosmetic issue, and my goal is to make it look as decent as I can with minimal cost.

I wouldn’t mind eventually replacing the doors with something better (I should have the weight to spare) but that’ll be a later consideration, if I happened to come across matching surplus or discounted replacements somewhere.

 

[Onyrlef]

I don’t necessarily disagree with you Mark however the doors still function perfectly fine. This really is (for me) a minor cosmetic issue, and my goal is to make it look as decent as I can with minimal cost.

I wouldn’t mind eventually replacing the doors with something better (I should have the weight to spare) but that’ll be a later consideration, if I happened to come across matching surplus or discounted replacements somewhere.

It’s just a door anyway and there are considerations other than aesthetic when hanging a heavier door, such as the integrity of the structure from which it's to be hung.

 

[gwinger]

It’s just a door anyway and there are considerations other than aesthetic when hanging a heavier door, such as the integrity of the structure from which it's to be hung.

If you do replace the doors, buy lightweight hollow core doors. One other problem is going to finding the proper size. Most RV doors are not a standard size. Doors from a home improvement store may not be able to be cut down to the correct size.

 

[rvlifer]

If you do replace the doors, buy lightweight hollow core doors. One other problem is going to finding the proper size. Most RV doors are not a standard size. Doors from a home improvement store may not be able to be cut down to the correct size.

Slab doors can be if you dont mind that look. You can also get hollow core raised panel doors in enough sizes that you should be able to get them to fit most openings. The problem is that the tools that make it easier to fit them arent typically carried by rvers and the existing frames on the rv could easily be twisted from moving the rv that the new doors wont work as well as expected. I wouldnt want to get into trying to retrofit a prehung door in an rv lol

The easiest thing to do is reglue tge existing ones, cut out the bubbles, and patch and paint them

 

[gwinger]

Slab doors can be if you dont mind that look. You can also get hollow core raised panel doors in enough sizes that you should be able to get them to fit most openings. The problem is that the tools that make it easier to fit them arent typically carried by rvers and the existing frames on the rv could easily be twisted from moving the rv that the new doors wont work as well as expected. I wouldnt want to get into trying to retrofit a prehung door in an rv lol

The easiest thing to do is reglue tge existing ones, cut out the bubbles, and patch and paint them

Doors come in 24, 28, 30, 32 and 36 inch widths. The standard height is 80 inches. The hollow core doors do not have much of an interior frame, maybe 1 inch, so cutting to fit may be a problem. Weight is going to be the biggest problem. The frame is probably nothing more than a 2x2, if that.