Jinxed! I double Jinxed Myself. Jacks & Engine Light

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AnRVAndADog

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Port Richey, FL
Ok, I'm telling the whole story just in case Part 1 is some way related to Part 2 (I don't think so, but what do I know?).

Just got the AC and starter replaced, building back confidence in my RV, went to a State Park for the weekend. Sunday, getting ready to drive back to home base. I had just finished posting a few pics to Instagram and mentioned how darn good I felt and how my RV was performing with something like military precision. Jinxed! 10 minutes later the right front jack won't retract. Called a local RV Guy, he used a 2x4 to pry-push the Jack back up. No warning light/alarm, time to go...

Jinxed, again! Not 10 miles down the road Engine light comes on. Except I noticed nothing else. RV felt fine, was driving fine, accelerated with no problem, no smells, no smoke, no fumes, nothing. So I kept driving another 60 miles home. Nothing, drove fine, felt fine, nothing. I get home and let it sit a while then go check the oil. I had checked the oil before I left that morning (had recently changed the oil) and it was full-up and looked new, and was still full-up and looked new. Started great. No leaks, no drips, idled like normal. The whole time the Temp Gauge showed dead-medium temperature, never moved. Still have an Engine Light.

The only thing I noticed was the coolant was slightly low, about a half inch below the line. So I got some Dex-Cool coolant and topped up the reservoir. Starts fine, runs fine, still have the Engine Light with other info (see pic)... I let it idle until it gets to running temp, about 15 minutes, shut it off, came back in 45 minutes, coolant fine, oil fine, still have the Engine Light...

Anybody have any ideas???



 

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Gary RV_Wizard

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RV & chassis year/make/model would help.  If you add that info as a part of a signature line stored in your profile, you wouldn't have to include it every time you post a question.
And for the jack problem, the make of the hydraulic jack system would help us help you.
 

John Hilley

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Buxton, ND
Either buy an inexpensive OBD II code reader or go to an auto parts store and have them read the code. Might be something as simple as a loose gas cap. The code will point you in the right direction.

There are many code readers that work with a smart phone or tablet as well as many stand alone inexpensive code readers at Walmart, Amazon, Harbor Freight or auto parts stores.
 

ChasA

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Have you reset the oil minder?  Try this: ignition on with engine off. Press accelerator pedal to the floor 3 times within 5 seconds, not too fast. Turn key off. If the minder was reset, the check engine light should blink 3 times. Start engine and see what happens.  I hope this works.
 

AnRVAndADog

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Port Richey, FL
John Hilley said:
Either buy an inexpensive OBD II code reader or go to an auto parts store and have them read the code. Might be something as simple as a loose gas cap. The code will point you in the right direction.
There are many code readers that work with a smart phone or tablet as well as many stand alone inexpensive code readers at Walmart, Amazon, Harbor Freight or auto parts stores.

Ordered one, waiting...
 

AnRVAndADog

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Port Richey, FL
ChasA said:
Have you reset the oil minder?  Try this: ignition on with engine off. Press accelerator pedal to the floor 3 times within 5 seconds, not too fast. Turn key off. If the minder was reset, the check engine light should blink 3 times. Start engine and see what happens.  I hope this works.

Yep, tried that for the heck of it. Didn't work... Checked the gas cap, it was fine... I would be extremely unhappy were it not for the fact that it starts great, runs great, accelerates great, all the fluids are perfect, no leaks, and no smokey or burning smells. That all suggests to me that this won't be too expensive... (Hope I didn't just jinx myself a third time...)
 

John Canfield

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Gary RV_Wizard said:
RV & chassis year/make/model would help.  If you add that info as a part of a signature line stored in your profile, you wouldn't have to include it every time you post a question.
And for the jack problem, the make of the hydraulic jack system would help us help you.
Yes, please add your make, year and model by creating a signature!
 

John From Detroit

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Davison Michigan
Two items/suggestions.

On the Jack: LUBRICATE as per the manual instructions. or spray it down with (I have spelling issues here0 Silicon spray  (instructions may say tranny fulid if you can find 'em)
  Then run it up and down (NOT ALL THE WAY) a few times and lub it again..

Engine: If it is a gas engine and modern enough get one of those OBDII to Blue tooth devices.. I got one off E-bay (Actually I got 2 one works. one not) and somthing like the TORQUE app for your phone. OR get an OBD-II code reader (I rather like the torque app)

IT will read the codes

There are several different types of error light codes
1 Type if the problem goes away.. so does the light
Another the light will reset when you shut down and restart
A third the light won't go out till someone resets it (Torque Pro can do that)

Some codes are kind of .. Well.. Annoying but that's all. LIke "Evaporative emmissions control leak major leak" (Forgot to put the gas cap back on is #1 on that list)

Some are serious get to the mechanic ASAP

Some are shut down and call a tow truck.

What yours is. I have absolutly no clue but I suspect it's not the last one.

And sometimes.. Bad sensor.
 

AnRVAndADog

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Sep 18, 2018
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Port Richey, FL
Gary RV_Wizard said:
RV & chassis year/make/model would help.  If you add that info as a part of a signature line stored in your profile, you wouldn't have to include it every time you post a question.
And for the jack problem, the make of the hydraulic jack system would help us help you.

Did that...

My solution to the Jack problem is to never use it again...
 

AnRVAndADog

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Joined
Sep 18, 2018
Posts
380
Location
Port Richey, FL
John From Detroit said:
Two items/suggestions.
On the Jack: LUBRICATE as per the manual instructions. or spray it down with (I have spelling issues here0 Silicon spray  (instructions may say tranny fulid if you can find 'em)
Then run it up and down (NOT ALL THE WAY) a few times and lub it again..

I'm just gonna not use the Jacks ever again...

Engine: If it is a gas engine and modern enough get one of those OBDII to Blue tooth devices.. I got one off E-bay (Actually I got 2 one works. one not) and somthing like the TORQUE app for your phone. OR get an OBD-II code reader (I rather like the torque app)
IT will read the codes
There are several different types of error light codes
1 Type if the problem goes away.. so does the light
Another the light will reset when you shut down and restart
A third the light won't go out till someone resets it (Torque Pro can do that)
Some codes are kind of .. Well.. Annoying but that's all. LIke "Evaporative emmissions control leak major leak" (Forgot to put the gas cap back on is #1 on that list)
Some are serious get to the mechanic ASAP
Some are shut down and call a tow truck.
What yours is. I have absolutly no clue but I suspect it's not the last one.
And sometimes.. Bad sensor.

Yep, I bought Kiwi3 off Amazon, arrives tomorrow, and I got the KIWIOBD app and Dashboard Commander app. ("Dashboard Commander" sounds waaay cool! I'm gonna have to get another dash mount for my spare iPhone so I can monitor those gauges...)

It probably can't be either of the last two because it was running excellent for about 40 miles on the Interstate... (Fingers crossed...)

I'm making this up as I go but I'd bet it's either fuel and/or air filter...


 

Spring Creek

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Iowa
I’m not a mechanic but my basic understanding would be neither the air or fuel filter is going to throw a code because there is no sensor monitoring those inputs (as in being blocked or restricted).

I’ll stand corrected if someone knows otherwise.

Edit:  After thinking harder maybe a rich or lean code.  That said, I’ve had both clogged air and fuel filter but no code was set; it just ran crappy.
 

AnRVAndADog

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Posts
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Port Richey, FL
AnRVAndADog said:
Anybody have any ideas???

Here we go again...

Got the Kiwi3 OBDII code reader...

Good News: Installed easy enough. (Installed upside down, thanks GM...)

Bad News: Doesn't work... Made at least 20 tries, Bluetooth connected once and then dropped in less than a minute...

Bought a WiFi-based code reader, try again tomorrow...


 

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Gizmo100

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AnRVAndADog said:
Bad News: Doesn't work... Made at least 20 tries, Bluetooth connected once and then dropped in less than a minute...

Just a shot in the dark....If your phone is connected to anything else via blue tooth it may not connect to the scanner. I have this problem if I'm wearing wireless earbuds and start my truck the truck takes over the blue tooth connection on my phone.

 

AnRVAndADog

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Sep 18, 2018
Posts
380
Location
Port Richey, FL
AnRVAndADog said:
Here we go again...
Got the Kiwi3 OBDII code reader...
Good News: Installed easy enough. (Installed upside down, thanks GM...)
Bad News: Doesn't work... Made at least 20 tries, Bluetooth connected once and then dropped in less than a minute...
Bought a WiFi-based code reader, try again tomorrow...

Got a code reader called VEEPEAK running the iOS App called OBD Fusion on my iPad. It's WiFi-based. Connected immediately.

I have code: P0332
Type=Powertrain
Description=Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low

What I found:

Most Common Causes:

?A faulty knock sensor
?A fault in the knock sensor circuit or its connectors
?An air/fuel ratio that?s too lean
?A problem with the cooling system
?A defective EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system

It's not out of the question that I put Premium Gas in the Old Girl since I do that with the wife's SUV and my Mustang. I have to fill up Friday anyway for a drive back to the Ocala, FL, area so I'll use the cheap gas and un-lean it...

I did notice the coolant was a tiny bit low (maybe a 1/2") and topped it off...

Symptoms of the P0332 code?

?In some rare cases, there will be no other symptom besides the Check Engine light coming on.
?Pinging in the engine when accelerating
?Increased engine heat under normal operation
?Lack or loss of power

I experienced NO symptoms. I even drove another 80 or so miles on the Interstate with the Engine light on and still experienced no symptoms. There was excess heat but that's probably because the Coach Heater switch was on (Low). The Engine Temp Gauge show exactly normal temp all the time. No pinging, no loss of power.

I reset the Check Engine light.

Notes: The Kiwi3 OBDII code reader is obviously defective. Their customer support is as worthless as their code reader. I would have to recommend that nobody buy anything from "PLX Devices" ever...

Any other ideas/comments???

 

AnRVAndADog

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Posts
380
Location
Port Richey, FL
AnRVAndADog said:
Got a code reader called VEEPEAK running the iOS App called OBD Fusion on my iPad. It's WiFi-based. Connected immediately.
I have code: P0332
Type=Powertrain
Description=Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low
What I found:
Most Common Causes:
?A faulty knock sensor
?A fault in the knock sensor circuit or its connectors
?An air/fuel ratio that?s too lean
?A problem with the cooling system
?A defective EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system
It's not out of the question that I put Premium Gas in the Old Girl since I do that with the wife's SUV and my Mustang. I have to fill up Friday anyway for a drive back to the Ocala, FL, area so I'll use the cheap gas and un-lean it...
I did notice the coolant was a tiny bit low (maybe a 1/2") and topped it off...
Symptoms of the P0332 code?
?In some rare cases, there will be no other symptom besides the Check Engine light coming on.
?Pinging in the engine when accelerating
?Increased engine heat under normal operation
?Lack or loss of power
I experienced NO symptoms. I even drove another 80 or so miles on the Interstate with the Engine light on and still experienced no symptoms. There was excess heat but that's probably because the Coach Heater switch was on (Low). The Engine Temp Gauge show exactly normal temp all the time. No pinging, no loss of power.
I reset the Check Engine light.
Notes: The Kiwi3 OBDII code reader is obviously defective. Their customer support is as worthless as their code reader. I would have to recommend that nobody buy anything from "PLX Devices" ever...
Any other ideas/comments???

I have since started the engine and let it idle to operating temperature (about 10-15 minutes), twice. No Check Engine light...

We're going RVing...

 

AnRVAndADog

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Posts
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Location
Port Richey, FL
AnRVAndADog said:
I have since started the engine and let it idle to operating temperature (about 10-15 minutes), twice. No Check Engine light...
We're going RVing...

We went RVing... Went to Starbucks (road coffee). Went to gas up. Drove to Silver Springs State Park, Ocala, FL. Two hours, lots of rain, I-75 speeds sometimes as low as 40mph. No Check Engine Light...

Had a great weekend. Nothing broke, nothing even weird.

On the way back, maybe an hour after getting underway, damn Check Engine Light. Happened just as I was entering a Rest Stop. Same Code as before. Absolutely ZERO symptoms. Cleared the Code and drove home... No light.

I really hate the idea of taking the Old Girl to the RV Service Center on a fishing expedition... 

Anybody got any ideas?
 

Alfa38User

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Oct 4, 2007
Posts
6,678
Do NOT take it to an RV centre. Find a truck dealer or service that can handle your brand of vehicle for the engine light.
 

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