We will be briefly living in our RV (2004 Forest River Cardinal 32ft fifth wheel) without heat from the furnace or space heaters. Brrr. The temp is expected to be around 28-31 degrees. What can we do to keep our pipes from freezing? The hose has a small drip where it connects to the RV. The tank heating switches are on (though only one shows a light on the switch). Can I leave a tap dripping? Should we drain the water in the RV and disconnect and drain the hose? Should we move to a warmer climate? All advice welcome.
Keeping pipes from freezing in an unheated trailer
- Thread starter dwdanby
- Start date
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Oldgator73
Well-known member
It sounds like you aren’t parked where you can hook up to shore power. Are your tank heater switches propane or electric? If propane why can’t you run your RV’s heater. If electric why can’t you have space heaters. Anyway, 28-31 isn’t a hard freeze. How long will those temps last; a few hours or consistently?
Mr Lars
Well-known member
Why no heat? You have water nearby, why no power?
Larry N.
Well-known member
If you can't run the propane heater and you can't run electric heaters, then you probably don't have propane on board or 120V AC service, therefore any other solution I could think of won't work either. Sorry. And except for "brrr" you don't give a clue to your location...
Rene T
Site Team
If you have the option to move to a warmer climate, do it. Or do you have access to a generator?
If it gets colder, that drip is likely to freeze along with the hose and possibly the supply water pipes unless you can fill your fresh water tank, disconnect the hose and drain it. The supply faucet would have to be one of those freeze proof hydrants. Then use the on board water pump to give you fresh water. You will need electricity to keep your battery charged and for everything else to work.
If it gets colder, that drip is likely to freeze along with the hose and possibly the supply water pipes unless you can fill your fresh water tank, disconnect the hose and drain it. The supply faucet would have to be one of those freeze proof hydrants. Then use the on board water pump to give you fresh water. You will need electricity to keep your battery charged and for everything else to work.
Not sure how brief this event will be for you or for how long the temps could be 28F. For example if 28 is the nightly low and you will be above 32 during the day you might be ok, but to avoid a disaster it seems like you need to winterize the trailer. Not sure if you need to add RV AF but at the very least drain and bypass your water heater then blow out the water lines with air - don't forget the outside shower and kitchen if you have one.
Kirk
Well-known member
Are those the daily high temperatures or the low temperatures? If those will be the lowest temperatures at night you probably won't have any problems with pipes freezing. It will be chilly inside but if 2 people are living inside and cooking and such then the interior will probably stay above freezing, unless 28-31 is the daily high.
That probably means that only one heater is working and the other likely doesn't have any power. Most tank heaters are 12V and they will drain the batteries so I would not run them unless you have access to 120V to power the converter and recharge the batteries and supply other loads.
If 28-31 is the expected daily high temperatures, that would be a good idea. If those are the daily low temperatures, you probably don't need to do so. Perhaps fill the fresh water tank and then remove and drain the hose but nothing more.
We really need more information to be sure that we are giving good advice.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
I wonder if anyone has experimented with running salt water in the lines. Mix up a solution of some salt concentration and pump it through like RV antifreeze. The fresh tank can be left alone, likely it's OK between location and thermal mass. When the freeze threat is over just run the salt solution out. Even "better" would be to blow the lines out with air but maybe the salt solution idea might be a bit more convenient to do on short notice. Personally the vodka idea and "purging the lines" has more appeal but that can get expensive after a while...
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I see no advantage in using salt vs potable water "RV" antifreeze. Neither is toxic but both taste bad enough that they need to be flushed away before drinking. I guess you could cook with the salty water, though.
If you have an air compressor, empty the lines via the low point drains and then blow air thru using the compressor. It's simple, doesn't take long, and you don't need high pressure (30 psi is plenty).
If you have an air compressor, empty the lines via the low point drains and then blow air thru using the compressor. It's simple, doesn't take long, and you don't need high pressure (30 psi is plenty).
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
My baseline of experience with air purging is my current RV, and while the pressure isn't much the volume is. Even my 2 stage shop compressor can't keep up with blowing all the lines out in one shot. Something like a "tire inflator" kind of thing one might have on board I don't think would cut the mustard.
RV & Marine AntiFreeze -50F
Symptoms of Exposure: Practically non-toxic; mild skin irritant. May cause diarrhea by oral ingestion.
If I had a choice I think it'd be salt...
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
RV & Marine AntiFreeze -50F
Symptoms of Exposure: Practically non-toxic; mild skin irritant. May cause diarrhea by oral ingestion.
If I had a choice I think it'd be salt...
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
chuckbear
Well-known member
I guess until the OP comes back with more details, any advice seems a waste of time. Chuck
Larry N.
Well-known member
Careful of rust- salt exacerbates that a lot...
My apologies for the late reply. I'll do my best to fill in the gaps.
Basically, we have no access to propane where we're parked. We have power but the owner of the land will only allow very limited use of it (this is an emergency situation for us). So no use of furnace, no space heaters, no many other things. (We won't be here long thank goodness.) The temps are nighttime; basically they shouldn't get below 25 degrees at night. We are on the coast of WA state. This isn't our trailer so we can't make changes. We have no access to a generator. The fresh water tank is cracked and unusable.
We will be moving into our new home soon; there was an unexpected delay and so we are here. I appreciate all your advice; hope this clarifies. For what it's worth, the lady in the next RV over suggested the dripping tap thing.
Basically, we have no access to propane where we're parked. We have power but the owner of the land will only allow very limited use of it (this is an emergency situation for us). So no use of furnace, no space heaters, no many other things. (We won't be here long thank goodness.) The temps are nighttime; basically they shouldn't get below 25 degrees at night. We are on the coast of WA state. This isn't our trailer so we can't make changes. We have no access to a generator. The fresh water tank is cracked and unusable.
We will be moving into our new home soon; there was an unexpected delay and so we are here. I appreciate all your advice; hope this clarifies. For what it's worth, the lady in the next RV over suggested the dripping tap thing.
Oldgator73
Well-known member
So basically you have enough power for lights and a fridge and now you are getting down to 25 at night. Something is going to freeze. Maybe you can stuff some towels or whatever around the WH during the night and disconnect the water hose. You’re going to need some extra blankets to sleep with. If I was 25 this would be fun but at 72 it would be hell. I hope it all works out for you.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
Although RV antifreeze has a bad taste, salt water is what people drink to "cleanse" their colon.
ref:The Benefits of Drinking Salt Water | Livestrong.com
Mr Lars
Well-known member
If the RV owner won’t allow you heat the thing, I would be outa there before the day was over. Hello Best Western, or Motel 6, or Super 8, or……………
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
Blowing out the lines can (should?) Be a progressive thing. i.e. open the faucets and drains sucessively starting wilh the closest and then progressing one at a time. Then Repeat! This will permit blowing out the lines with a small compressor.
Ernie
Ernie
