Keurig Trips 2000W Inverter Under Load

[Qwe]

Hi, my 2000W Inverter, lately, has been tripping out when I use the Keurig coffee machine. This 1200W draw always causes the inverter to alarm mind you, but it’s never kicked out: till now. I’m not sure of its make/model or it’s peak wattage as the camper is not close by.
It's an entry level device, cost less than $100 CAN and it’s ~5 yrs old.
My battery bank (~160Ah) to Inverter wiring uses 2/0 welding cable, maybe 3’ in length, and I use a 12ga (~3’) extension cord from the Inverter’s AC outlet to the Powermax transfer switch, so I don't think it's a wiring issue. Batteries are @ >95%+ when I make this most important 1st coffee, the Colman Camping coffee maker will be ready by then. And again everything was OK before.
My hunch is the Inverter has seen its best days, lol.
I'm considering a 3000W (6000 peak) Inverter, I’ll never use it at even near capacity but it won’t trip out either.
My question is what is the use of these high output inverters if you can only use a 15A AC cord - the unit pictured doesn’t accommodate a 20A 10ga plug? Most of them don’t, is this a buyer beware type issue?

 

[Brad Buchanan]

You are right at the max for your inverter with the normal draws of your camper and the coffepot.

The pictured inverter looks ok but if it was me I would choose a unit with cooling fans as you will probably install it in an area that does not have much free airflow.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

I wouldn't suspect the inverter at this point. Before I bought anything I would spend a few minutes with a meter making sure connections were sound and the batteries were holding up. Even just a nominal load like 100W is enough to reveal issues.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Qwe]

You are right at the max for your inverter with the normal draws of your camper and the coffepot.

The pictured inverter looks ok but if it was me I would choose a unit with cooling fans as you will probably install it in an area that does not have much free airflow.

K, thanks. The Inverter is in a closet, didn't consider the heat issue, I ust don't wanna hear the fan, lol. Appreciate the heads up here.

 

[Qwe]

I wouldn't suspect the inverter at this point. Before I bought anything I would spend a few minutes with a meter making sure connections were sound and the batteries were holding up. Even just a nominal load like 100W is enough to reveal issues.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Normal periodic checks eh? I haven't gone over any connections since last upgrade (auto switch) last year so even if no issues turn up I'm gonna make this the place to start.

 

[DonTom]

but it’s never kicked out: till now

Under the full load of the Keurig, before it drops out, can you measure the DC voltage right at the input on the inverter? That should be where you should start.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Sounds to me like your batteries are giving out. The inverter is still doing fine but its running low on fuel (battery amp-hours)

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

That's what a meter can show, if input voltage is dropping under load and where it drops the most. 1200W is 100A+ at 12V so it doesn't take much of an issue - resistive connection, corrosion, aged batteries - to make the inverter mad.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Qwe]

Ubet, it's just sitting on a shelf. Unfortunately I won't be at the trailer till next week but with these suggestions I'll have a definite game plan,

Sounds to me like your batteries are giving out. The inverter is still doing fine but its running low on fuel (battery amp-hours)

I was lazy this spring and didn't do the annual capacity test on either of em so there's that to consider for sure. The FLA 65Ah battery is 7+ish yrs old and I’ve been watching for sales on 100Ah LiFePO4’s all season. The OEM converter was changed out with a WF-9855 last year so I’m just gonna go ahead and live with this issue till Lithium battery #2 is installed. My 2 yr old Moseworth 100Ah has maybe 50 hrs/15 cycles on it so I don’t think the age difference is gonna be a biggy charging wise.

 

[Wmlunt-WO]

You have a FLA and a lithium hooked up?

 

[RayIN]

One 65AH battery is the supply for the 2000W inverter, or is a 2nd battery involved? It requires 10A @ 12VDC to produce 1A @120VAC. from the inverter.
You have a supply issue instead of an inverter issue. Most inverters have a low battery alarm and shut-off at 10.8V-11VDC when under load due to lack of supply. It's about the same voltage drop as an engine starter draw on a small or weak battery. The cheaper brands might not have that feature though.
Without the specs of the inverter, all the above is just my opinion.

 

[OldWEB]

My question is what is the use of these high output inverters if you can only use a 15A AC cord - the unit pictured doesn’t accommodate a 20A 10ga plug? Most of them don’t, is this a buyer beware type issue?

Read the manual, the connector shown is for your a.c. wiring if you so choose.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0058/2769/0553/files/RS-V3P24_RS-V3P12_USER_MANUAL_260323.pdf

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

15A = 1800 watts, so approximately what that 2000W inverter can produce. A 2500W or 3000W inverter would typically have at least two 15A outlets and have an internal breaker at 30A (3600W).

 

[Bigfootford]

We have to include the 10% rule for the inverter. 1200watt ac load is +<>120 more watts= 1300.
Also in the picture, if you have your fridge set to auto it is going to switch to AC! That adds another 350 watts or so.

 

[John From Detroit]

Just a rule of thumb.. You know Watts = Amps times volts right (Actually wrong more in a bit) and the battery is 12 volts.... Just use 10 for the battery and it's amazing how close it works out to the DC current as reported by the inverter's display (if it does that)

Watts = Amps * Volts * Power factor... >For DC systems that last is normally 1 (one).

But for AC it can be lower . If you see a ID plate that says "Volt Amps" .. Well Volt-amps.. .is just that Volts*amps but if the plate is marked that way ".. that is not watts.

And inrush when it first starts. can be 5x or more running

 

[Bigfootford]

Keurig's has one small dc motor and a heat element.
No big inrush.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Most types of heat elements will have an in-rush current, if for no other reason than its resistance drops as it heats up. But they quickly stabilize. I'll guess the typical in-rush on a smallish resistive heater is maybe +10%.

 

[John From Detroit]

A standard Keurig coffee maker draws between 950 and 1500 watts per Google.
So I'm guessing the fridge and perhaps another parasitic or two are enough to trip the overload.
Another thing that will "Trip" an inverter.. low battery voltage (Not so much at the battery as at the inverter end of the cable)

When I was parked at the shop if I wanted to make coffee using the electric coffee maker or to microwave.. Well on a common house circuit the only thing connected was the converter (A plug in model, I unplugged from the RV's outlet and plugged in to an extension cord) I had to kick the converter into "Boost" mode due to voltage drop under load. .

 

[Qwe]

Sounds to me like your batteries are giving out. The inverter is still doing fine but its running low on fuel (battery amp-hours)

Hey Gary, I'm following up here to let you know it was indeed my years old FLA battery causing the Inverter issue. My "new" replacement battery has solved the Inverter kick out issue.
You've been such a help over the years, I've learned enough by now to (almost) be dangerous, lol. Seriously tho I'm grateful for what you do on these posts.
I found a used DC House 100Ah LiFePO4 for $100, capacity test: ~1290 Wh. She's now beside my Moseworth LiFePO4 and I can't believe the power available now.
Both batteries are a few yrs old so im hoping there's no balance issues. This will be my next study, understanding how important dissimilar batteries can mess with stuff, age difference, how to determine if this is present and how to correct.
Stay well,
Joel Baker