Keystone Laredo travel trailer

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Tiger Rag

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Posts
15
Location
NC
Hey to everyone, my name is Matt and I've been looking for a little while now at several different types of trailers: travel trailers, fifth wheels, pop-up and pop-outs.? I think I've narrowed down that a travel trailer will do what I need and still leave the bed of my truck open for cargo or atv(s).? One that seems to be very good quality is the Keystone Laredo.? I'm looking at a 2004 25 RL and the floor plan would work just fine I believe and be plenty of room.? I guess what I'd like to know; is there any inherent issues with brand to be aware of and what in general should I be cautious of?? I know that can be a fairly broad question, but just general things to look out for would be great.? The trailer looks to be nearly new in appearance, of course it is a 2004 and should look new.? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Regards, Matt H

PS. I have a 3/4 ton diesel truck so I shouldn't have any trouble towing a 25'er
 
Why don't you look at one of the toy haulers if you are going to be doing the ATV or dune buggy thing plus i think your 3/4 ton diesel will pull a lot bigger
I pull a 9160# 5TH Wheel with my 3/4 Gasser
 
Here is a visual of my plans.  I have already purchased the atv rack for the bed of the truck and still have plenty of storage below the rack.  That is why I'm considering a travel trailer or a pop-up.  BTW, the truck and the travel trailer are not mine, however the atv rack is the one I bought.




 

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Thanks Tom, I appreciate it.  I think it will allow me camp and ride atv's with relative ease.  A welding company here in NC makes them, though I bought this one used, but there is another website where they sell a bolt together version.  If anyone would like contact information for either, I can provide that.

BTW, does anyone have s thoughts on the Keystone line in general.  They appear to me to be a pretty high quality manufacturer.  Still wondering if there is anything to be leary of in their line up.

Thanks, Matt
 
Matt

Hopefully one or more Keystone owners will jump in. Sometime folks are in transit or otherwise offline for days at a time.

I've never owned one, but have looked at them at RV shows and have suitably impressed. But, not being a TT owner, I'm sure there are important things I'm not looking at.
 
Tiger Rag said:
Thanks Tom, I appreciate it.? I think it will allow me camp and ride atv's with relative ease.? A welding company here in NC makes them, though I bought this one used, but there is another website where they sell a bolt together version.? If anyone would like contact information for either, I can provide that.

BTW, does anyone have s thoughts on the Keystone line in general.? They appear to me to be a pretty high quality manufacturer.? Still wondering if there is anything to be leary of in their line up.

Thanks, Matt

Hey Matt, do they also make racks for motorcycles?  I just got a basic ramp, and with me and my son, it is still an adventure.  I haven't tried it with my wife yet, and am not sure she can handle it.  I didn't pay much for the ramp, so as an experiment in loading, it is still a work in progress, and if it doesn't work, I haven't lost anything.  But I can already see that there must be a better way.  The cost has kept me away from a more elaborate ramp or other solution so far.  I'm a cheapscape by nature, and always looking for the least expensive way to do something.  But any info would certainly be helpful as I find the right solution for me.

Thanks,
 
Ed, not sure on motorcycle ramps, but just in case here is the link to the bolt together rack site: http://www.ultimateracks.com/

and here is the link to guys that built my rack: http://thetoyhauler.tripod.com/  (They've also got a picture of a nice atv hauling trailer being pulled by a Class A)

You never know it may be worth contacting one of these companies to see what they know about transporting motorcycles.  I can see that they would be difficult to transport, especially in the back of truck bed (more than one).  It seems to me I've seen a rack that fits on the back of motorhomes and maybe even on a TT of 5th Wheel that has a channel for the tires and tie downs.  It looks a little like  the hitch haulers.....wait, found one similar.....here it is: http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jhtml?id=0025772521530a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnString=hasJS=true&_D%3AhasJS=+&QueryText=motorcycle+carrier&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jhtml.22&Go.x=8&Go.y=4&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=motorcycle+carrier&noImage=0&returnPage=search-results1.jhtml

I guess one like that would work if you had a hitch on the back of your TT or 5th wheel.

Hope that helps a little bit anyway.

Take care, Matt
 
I'm looking at a 2004 25 RL and the floor plan would work just fine I believe and be plenty of room.  I guess what I'd like to know; is there any inherent issues with brand to be aware of and what in general should I be cautious of?  I know that can be a fairly broad question, but just general things to look out for would be great.  The trailer looks to be nearly new in appearance, of course it is a 2004 and should look new.  Thanks in advance for the advice.

There really is not much to look for -- at travel trailer is really just a box on wheels with a few industry standard appliances in it.  I kind of agree with your idea of carrying the ATVs on the truck.  The idea of storing a mud encrusted ATV in one's living space just does not appeal to me. :)

Anyway things to look out for:

1.  Weight on the rear axle of the truck.  You have two ATVs and the tongue weight of the trailer.  Check that against your vehicle's limitations.

2.  Getting a good weight equalizing hitch and a good anti-sway system.  Have them installed by someone who knows how to do that.

3.  House batteries -- have two good deep cycle batteries.  Do not attempt to use Marine dual purpose batteries -- like most such things, they are not very good as a starting battery nor as a house battery.

4.  Load your truck and trailer and weigh them on a commercial scales.  Record the combined vehicle weight, the trailer weight, and the tongue weight. 

5.  Be sure to have a helluva lot of fun with the rig. 
 
Thanks Matt.  I've looked at most of those, and am still just trying to figure it all out.  I may send those other guys an e-mail and see what they have to say.  In the meantime, I'll just keep looking until the thing that will "do it" magically appears.
 
Carl Lundquist said:
There really is not much to look for -- at travel trailer is really just a box on wheels with a few industry standard appliances in it.? ?I kind of agree with your idea of carrying the ATVs on the truck.? ?The idea of storing a mud encrusted ATV in one's living space just does not appeal to me. :)

Anyway things to look out for:

1.? Weight on the rear axle of the truck.? ?You have two ATVs and the tongue weight of the trailer.? Check that against your vehicle's limitations.

2.? Getting a good weight equalizing hitch and a good anti-sway system.? Have them installed by someone who knows how to do that.

3.? House batteries -- have two good deep cycle batteries.? ?Do not attempt to use Marine dual purpose batteries -- like most such things, they are not very good as a starting battery nor as a house battery.

4.? Load your truck and trailer and weigh them on a commercial scales.? Record the combined vehicle weight, the trailer weight, and the tongue weight.?

5.? Be sure to have a helluva lot of fun with the rig.? ?

Carl, good information.? Thank you for the help.? My buddy just today suggested that towing a travel trailer over the length of 18 to 20' is going to be a pain (he owns a fifth wheel). He feels like it is a handful on the road and can have lots of swaying, etc and basically thinks the ones I'm looking at in the 25'/5500 lb(dry) range are dangerous.? I've been pulling a 31' boat at about 11,000 lbs with no difficulty what-so-ever, but I haven't ever pulled a large travel trailer before.? Will the wind cause problems with its high profile and can I expect excessive sway, etc.? If so, will the aforementioned weight distribution hitch and anti-sway system reduce OR do away with these problems.? I do understand the advantages of pulling a 5th wheel or goose neck trailer vs with a standard hitch, but just not sure I understand what to expect pulling the travel trailer.? As I mentioned above I have 3/4 ton diesel truck (with overload springs) and it is a pretty stout pulling vehicle so I guess I'm wondering if I'll even need the hitch additions?

Thanks again for the information, Matt
 
Hello,
I have a Keystone Laredo travel trailer I bought in 2004. Like any travel trailer it has been back to the dealer once for minor repairs. Nothing major. Just small details. I have a Keystone Laredo 25+4 RL. This is a pull behind that is very much like a 5er layout. Big windows in the back and a full size queen bed in the front. My wife and I are looking for a bunkhouse trailer and will be selling this trailer to make room for the new bunkhouse. We are again looking at the Laredo model. This time it will be a 28+4BH model. Since having my 2 boys, we feel that a bunkhouse will suit our needs better. Laredo is a good model and is one of the nicer looking models? inside and out. We looked at a lot of rv's before choosing the Laredo. If interested in the 25+4RL give us a shout or write back to this thread. Can make a great deal and get you into a used model that has been out a total of 2 times since new. I also pull this with my Chevy Duramax/allison 3/4 ton crew cab. It pulls the camper like it's not there. This camper only weighs 6400UVW.

Thanks..............
 
crossfire said:
Hello,
I have a Keystone Laredo travel trailer I bought in 2004. Like any travel trailer it has been back to the dealer once for minor repairs. Nothing major. Just small details. I have a Keystone Laredo 25+4 RL. This is a pull behind that is very much like a 5er layout. Big windows in the back and a full size queen bed in the front. My wife and I are looking for a bunkhouse trailer and will be selling this trailer to make room for the new bunkhouse. We are again looking at the Laredo model. This time it will be a 28+4BH model. Since having my 2 boys, we feel that a bunkhouse will suit our needs better. Laredo is a good model and is one of the nicer looking models? inside and out. We looked at a lot of rv's before choosing the Laredo. If interested in the 25+4RL give us a shout or write back to this thread. Can make a great deal and get you into a used model that has been out a total of 2 times since new. I also pull this with my Chevy Duramax/allison 3/4 ton crew cab. It pulls the camper like it's not there. This camper only weighs 6400UVW.

Thanks..............

Crossfire, that is the same model I'm looking at.  I sent you a PM.
 
My buddy just today suggested that towing a travel trailer over the length of 18 to 20' is going to be a pain (he owns a fifth wheel). He feels like it is a handful on the road and can have lots of swaying, etc and basically thinks the ones I'm looking at in the 25'/5500 lb(dry) range are dangerous.

Nertz!? ?I have pulled a 23 footer with a Ford Bronco for the past 9 years.? ?No problemos.? ? The trick is to get the trailer properly set up.? Just like anything in the world, it helps to do it the right way.


I've been pulling a 31' boat at about 11,000 lbs with no difficulty what-so-ever, but I haven't never pulled a large travel trailer before.? Will the wind cause problems with its high profile and can I expect excessive sway, etc.? If so, will the aforementioned weight distribution hitch and anti-sway system reduce OR do away with these problems.

The short answer is, yes.


? I do understand the advantages of pulling a 5th wheel or goose neck trailer vs with a standard hitch, but just not sure I understand what to expect pulling the travel trailer.? As I mentioned above I have 3/4 ton diesel truck (with overload springs) and it is a pretty stout pulling vehicle so I guess I'm wondering if I'll even need the hitch additions?

You will need the "additions" kind of like you need good brakes.? ?

When you load a trailer on to the tail end of a truck, it pushes down on the trucks suspension aft of the rear axle.? ?That sets up leverage on the front axle of the truck about the a pivot on the rear axle.? ?Thus your front end floats relative to the rear.? ? This causes oversteer which is not a really good thing in trucks.? (Think of the old Corvairs.)? ?A weight distributing hitch uses spring bar trunnions to force the front down, redistributing the trailer's tongue toward the front axle and restoring the normal weight distribution and attitude of the truck.? ?Much nicer and safer to drive.

Sway, or more accurately yaw, is somewhat reduced by the weight distribution system but you still need an anti-sway system to control the tendency to yaw when hit by a side force like the wind or a pothole.? ?The most common is a friction bar attached to the trailer's A frame and do a mini-ball on the side of the ball mount of the truck.? Friction is adjusted by means of a set screw.? ?It works but you need to keep after the adjustment of the set screw.? ?

I prefer the Dual Cam system used by Reese.? ?It uses a camming surface on the spring bars to engage a cam built into stirrups hanging from shackles on the trailer's A-frame.? ?A yawing force has to fight the resistance of the cams on both spring bars.? ?This eliminates uncontrollable yaw before it can start.? ?No adjustment issues, the thing is automatically correctly set when you properly tension the spring bars.

Hensley Arrow puts out an excellent system combining hitching, weight distribution and yaw control in a single package.? ?A good friend of mine regards it as the ultimate system.? Since Guy is a real rocket scientist, I could would not argue the point with him.? ;D? ?However, it does cost, something like $3K.

You can take comfort in the fact that a travel trailer does have some inherent advantages over a 5W.? ?It has a lower profile with respect to side winds and shock waves from trucks and buses.? ?It will accurately track your tow vehicle and is, therefore, somewhat easier to back up.? ?You are going to pay some money for a trailer hitching system, but then the last time I heard, they were not giving away 5W hitch systems either.?



 
Carl, Thanks again for the information.? It sounds like from your comments and others I've spoken with that the WDH and anti-sway are the way to go.? What do these components price out at ballpark?? The Reese dual cam?? I haven't had these priced when I've dealt with a dealer so I'm just curious as what to expect.

Another question; when you are pulling with your Bronco you say you've had no problems because you are properly set up.? For one, I agree that getting a trailer and hitch properly set up is imperative even without the hitch additions you mention previously. Balance, tongue weight, and level attitude are all important when setting up a proper towing scenario.? This has helped me in the past towing heavy loads properly.? To get to my question, what highway speeds are you running with your Bronco and 23 footer?? I really don't like to hold up traffic or sit in the right hand lane at a snails pace and would like to pass slower traffic when a safe passing situation presents itself (4 lane highway).? Don't get me wrong, I'm not talking about passing everyone on the road, but say when there is a 70 mph speed zone, I'd like to run 70 to 75.? Is this possible and safe with the properly set up hitch and attachments with a tag-a-long type trailer?? I'm able to do this with no issues now pulling 11,000 lbs of boat, but again, it is not nearly as high profile as a camper and I can redily control my tongue weight based on how the boat sits on the trailer fore and aft.?

One other thing, I looked at Prowler Regal yesterday.? It was very nice and well thought out too.? I really liked some of the pull out baskets in cabinet areas, cedar lined closet, and the unit I looked at had the "garage" door in the back with racks, baskets, and hanging hooks for stroage (not a toy hauler garage, just a 2 foot deep storage area across the entire back of the trailer).? Any opinions on these units.? The salesman seemed to have a higher opinion of these vs the Keystone line of products.? I will say that I still like the Laredo just as well as the Prowler, but may actually be able to strike a better deal on the Prowler.

Thanks again, Matt
 
Tiger Rag said:
? Don't get me wrong, I'm not talking about passing everyone on the road, but say when there is a 70 mph speed zone, I'd like to run 70 to 75.?

Hi Matt,
I'm one of those  people who think people towing anything should NEVER be traveling 70 to 75 miles per hour no matter how superior their equipment.  I think posted speed limits are not the same for those of us who tow anything.  If you go around me at 70 miles and hour, I am going to shake my head and say speeder, speeder, speeder.  I'd say slow down, smell the roses and be safe.  One humble opinion....

Betty Brewer
 
Betty Brewer said:
Hi Matt,
I'm one of those? people who think people towing anything should NEVER be traveling 70 to 75 miles per hour no matter how superior their equipment.? ?I think posted speed limits are not the same for those of us who tow anything.? If you go around me at 70 miles and hour, I am going to shake my head and say speeder, speeder, speeder.? I'd say slow down, smell the roses and be safe.? One humble opinion....

Betty Brewer

Ok Betty, Thank you for your opinion.  I may formulate the same opinion after pulling one.  I will add this; I am a CDL'ed driver and know my limits.  I certainly would not plan on any excessive speed in heavy traffic or in cities, etc.  Just mainly talking about the open road.  You have to know your load, keep proper following distances, and use your head.  Just gathering opinions on what speed tolerances to expect.

Thanks, Matt
 
Carl, Thanks again for the information.? It sounds like from your comments and others I've spoken with that the WDH and anti-sway are the way to go.? What do these components price out at ballpark?? The Reese dual cam?? I haven't had these priced when I've dealt with a dealer so I'm just curious as what to expect
.

It has been a while since I have been in the market.? ?The Reese combo includes a ball mount and ball;? spring bars of the proper tension to match your tongue weight;? and the cam-surface shackles for the lifts.? ?Go see Reese's website at http://www.reeseproducts.com/ and follow out the Dual Cam pages and the pages on weight distribution.? ?The next step is to find a RV shop or a trailer shop that will carry the line and install it.? ? I suspect that you will run about $700-800 by the time you get done.? ? A Hensley Arrow will run about $3K.? ?See them at http://www.hensleymfg.com/

One item to add is a powered hitch jack.? ?For $150-200 it is one of the better buys you will ever make.

To get to my question, what highway speeds are you running with your Bronco and 23 footer?? I really don't like to hold up traffic or sit in the right hand lane at a snails pace and would like to pass slower traffic when a safe passing situation presents itself (4 lane highway).

Bad question.? ?I live in the State of California.? ?We have a towing speed limit of 55 mph everywhere and are limited to the far right hand lane or two if four are available.? ?Howsomever, if I am in, say, the state of Arizona or Utah, I can do 70mph.? ?Unless I am on an upgrade.? For a familiar example, I pull Siskayou Pass in first cog doing maybe 30-35 mph.? Needless to say I am in the right hand lane.? This sounds bad but I do have a lot of company there, and damn few in that company passing me -- including diesel pusher motorhomes and 5th wheels pulled by medium duty trucks.? ? In another example,? I went from Ship Rock to Keyenta on the Rez heading into a strong head wind.? ?I could not get my auto trannny out of 2nd gear.? When I turned a 120? corner at Keyenta and the head wind became a tail wind, I could do 75 in overdrive.

In short, you will be at the mercy of wind and grade.? Better get used to it.? ;D

The salesman seemed to have a higher opinion of these vs the Keystone line of products.? I will say that I still like the Laredo just as well as the Prowler, but may actually be able to strike a better deal on the Prowler.

I think I can speak for at least a comfortable plurality here, that if an RV salesman tells me that? the sun rises in the east, I would reserve opinion at least until the next sunrise.? ?Anyhow like I frequently say, a TT is just a box on wheels filled with appliances.? ?What you see is largely what you get.? Do take a look at the tongue weight in the specs.? It should be about 12-20% of the trailer weight.? Other than that, look for fit and finish and all systems working.



 
Thanks again Carl.  I'm pretty decent at knowing what items on boats are indicators of good quality.  I've noticed that actually some translate into the RV category as well.  One example I noticed on the Prowler is hydraulic rods to hold compartments open.  On others, vacuum bagging the fiberglass provides a solid bond and gets rid of extra weight of resin that is not needed.  Welded aluminum in boats is strong, etc. , so I think I'm on the right track.  I wish I could see the wiring better because if that is neatly done, that is a very good indicator.  Fit and finish is important to me vs a "price point" RV so that is why I am trying to dig deeper before I purchase.  Anyway, thanks for help!  ;D
 
I went to one of the local RV supply's today to check out hitch options.  I mentioned the Reese dual cam hitch and they said they didn't recommend it due to after you get into a curve, that it no longer functions.  They prefer the friction controled device.  They said it is always working, even in curves.  Any thoughts on whether this is the case or not?  Thanks, Matt
 

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