Levelers & slideouts question?

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How would you do that? by pushing it in? Looks like a heavy contraption.
 
In most cases the mechanism (motor, gear, hydraulic ram) has to be disconnected from the slide itself and then it is physically pushed in. Yes, it takes 2-3 strong guys.  Some of the slide mechanisms are fairly easy to disconnect, e.g. the Power Gear rack & pinion where you merely flip a locking tab on the motor so it can free-wheel, while others may require tools and some minor disassembly.
 
I will describe TWO of the 4 most common slides
Accuslide (These are cable cars. With the slide extended if you go outside you will see 4 cables (There are 8 you never see the other 4)

Remove the access panel to the motor and hook up a power drill using the supplied flex drive adapter. Standard 1/4 inch HEX drive so you can use your battery powered drill/driver.


Power Gear Rack and PINION

THeory has it there is a 3/4 " NUT on one or the other end of things.

Release the brake (lever on motor housing) and wrench it (Per manual)
Mine has no nut so I used a pipe wrench on the square shaft (worked)
FInally I pulled the pins. slid the geard out of place. and PUSHED.. I Can be very very pushy.

ANd last week. GOt the new motor in place.


Hydraulic slides..> Some have a hand pump but you need to operate the valves as well. How to do that varies from unit to unitl only hydraulic unit I have done by hand was a 2 person job.
 
Our coach came with a long shaft crank that fits through a small hole in the outer slide wall and engages a hex input shaft on the side of the gearbox. There's a switch in the coach that disengages the motor brake, allowing the slide to be cranked in or out. I've tested it, and it's not difficult to do, just time consuming.
 
NY_Dutch said:
Our coach came with a long shaft crank that fits through a small hole in the outer slide wall and engages a hex input shaft on the side of the gearbox. There's a switch in the coach that disengages the motor brake, allowing the slide to be cranked in or out. I've tested it, and it's not difficult to do, just time consuming.

If you disengage you slide to crank it out you need to double check that it is fully engaged when you are done. This can lead to it not moving correctly later. From my own experience, it may still move but not fully retract.
 
I found out for my slide, from the manufacturer. Shut off the power. Use a 3/4" socket on the nut like at the end of the motor and just turn and turn and turn..... It is a very slow process, but when in a jam, you'll find the time... They even had a short video on the subject.
 
Some of my slides are Schwintek, so I figure they are going to break anyway, whether I level or not :)  Come to think of it, both the slides and the jacks are LCI, so I'm taking a big chance either may break just by using them, so I don't worry much about it

The only one that really complains is my big full wall side if I'm off level.  It still works, but I don't like the way it groans and works extra hard so I try not to push my luck.
 
JoelP said:
If you disengage you slide to crank it out you need to double check that it is fully engaged when you are done. This can lead to it not moving correctly later. From my own experience, it may still move but not fully retract.

On ours, when the brake release switch is on, the In/Out switch is disabled.
 

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