Leveling Travel Trailer on a sloped driveway.

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Jeffshank

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Folsom Ca
My tongue needs to be raised up to level my trailer front to back. I’m thinking about cutting 2’ foot pieces of 4x4 and will criss cross them under the front of the frame on both sides, then lower the frame onto the 4x4’s then put a large block under front jack stand to raise the tongue higher to place another set of 4x4’s. Does anybody have any better ideas?

Jeff
 

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The longer the stack on the tongue the more leverage the wind, a car bumping it etc will have to topple the stack.

I would be tempted to make a box from 6 X 12 X 2 board with a small 6 X 6 X 2 platform at the top. You can mount a ball for the trailer to rest in. You would cut the side legs to match the slope of the drive so the top is flat.

As for jacking it up you may get enough lift with a 2 or 4 ton multi stage bottle jack somewhere just forward of the slide.
 
Nice new trailer and welcome to the Forum. Ya, I'm not a fan of those buckets either. No reason not to use 4x4s, I'd fasten them together so things stay solid. I also tend to put my stabilizers down when parked. I live in midwest, we have strong winds at times, figure a bit more stability can't hurt. I use cement blocks for height, I had them and they don't rot out.
 
Hello, Nice information on bracing the tongue. I think i have come up with an idea on my driveway. I am going to be dropping the axle to flip the springs. I am thinking about making a brace to go all the way across the front of the frame right where the box is. Using some cement bricks and 4x4 to span the distance then lower the frame on that. I figure if I am going to be banging on stuff I want it as stable as possible so it wont move.
 
I use two of the Anderson jack block red buckets stacked with a wood 4x4 on top that is cut straight to fit tightly within the top bucket perimeter groove. I was maximizing out my trailer jack due to the rear height of my Ram 2500 4x4 with a 2" factory lift on 35's (inch tires). Without the wood on top snow/ice/water fills within the top bucket groove and will rust around the bottom steel of the trailer jack, but then I live where snow and ice are an issue.
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On our smaller TT which is parked on sloped concrete driveway I use a cut railroad tie. To keep the trailer jack from sliding off of the railroad tie there's a 1/2" lag bolt placed through a heavy gauge steel fender washer and screwed deep into the railroad tie. The jack is centered on the head of the lag bolt.
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Um.... maybe something like this:

Cane Creek County Park, Union County, North Carolina, (April 2022).

Click here.

Y7eo0nE.jpg

The way this is done is to initially jack the trailer by the tongue jack as high as possible.

Then put blocks under the frame to where those blocks come as close as possible to the frame.

Now, lower the tongue jack and let the trailer rest on the frame.

Crank the tongue jack all the way up and now put a new set of blocks under the tongue jack.

Now crank the tongue jack as high as it will go again.

Now put more blocks under the frame as close as possible.

Keep repeating until you reach your level position.

Be sure your tires are chocked VERY well first.

Or.... in this case, they put those blocks under the leveling jacks, which will still work the same way. Just keep the leveling jacks collapsed until the very, very end, then use the stabilizing jacks to do the final stabilize.
 
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I saw a trailer set up like that on the way to Oatman. Looked like it was inhabited and permanent.
In the Appalachians it's commonplace to see mobile homes perched on the sides of mountains with one end 6 or 8 feet up off the lower end of a grade and the other end a foot of the ground.
 
I have a steep driveway also.

I built a set of heavy duty ramps and tied them together including the use of angle irons for stability, not really a solution for a TT, but I want to make a related suggestion anyway.

The rubber step pads under the ramp help prevent movement of the ramp.

If you are going to get under it or even work on the underside, then I would use a heavy ratchet strap or two connecting the rear of the TT to a solid anchor like the garage, another vehicle, or a tree.
 

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OK, I'm going to ask the question. Why would you care if your trailer/MH/5-er is level if it's sitting in your driveway and no one is sleeping in it? It could be parked on a 45 degree slope and as long as your wheels are chocked good it's not hurting anything or going anywhere.
 
Doesn’t look real. No wheel chocks unless they have a big steel cable at the back anchored to a big tree. The door and awning are on the wrong side unless maybe they are that way in the UK.
There's a chain that I can see wrapped between the Australian caravan wheels.

20230324_155515.jpg
 
You are correct. If you want to run the refer the night before, best to get it within 3-5 degrees
 
It could be an issue with the refer.

If you have a propane one, it might have a problem with the circulation of the coolant getting trapped from being uneven.

Maybe that is just an issue when operating.
 

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