LiFePO4 Upgrade for a 2002 Kodiak Converter and Charging

[dipdavis]

Hi all I'm so confused -and blond- I've read/watched way too many videos,
So here it goes I have a 2002 24ft Kodiak that has an Oan microlite 2800 generator.
I want to install solar later but now I'm just looking to upgrade my 30-amp convertor to handle two 12V Dumfume 150wh lifepro4 batteries (2 150ah are cheaper then 1 300ah). Do I need to do anything for my generator or is that handled thru the convertor? This sounds too easy what about alternator charging. I will also upgrade the wiring that is currently there with bigger size and better crimping.
what am i missing??

thanks in advance

 

[Isaac-1]

This is a hard one to answer, can you tell us more about what sort of RV this is I assume its a motorhome or camperv an of some type, google is not very helpful on this one.

 

[DonTom]

. Do I need to do anything for my generator or is that handled thru the convertor? This sounds too easy what about alternator charging. I will also upgrade the wiring that is currently there with bigger size and better

No problem with the generator. Nothing needs to be touched there.

What type of converter? What is the model number? Many have a switch or jumper to change for Lifepo4 batteries. Even if not, it will still work somewhat well with your Lifepo4 batteries.

With the alternator charging, it may be better to use a DC2DCC such as this one to limit the charge current to 30 amps.

Or perhaps go this route.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[garyb1st]

Two 150 aH batteries may be less than one 300 aH battery but then you have to add in the cost of the cables. Unless two 150 aH batteries are significantly less expensive, the cost of the cables is going to eliminate any savings. The other consideration is space. Two 150aH batteries will take a lot more space than one 300 aH battery. Then, you will have to balance the two batteries from time to time. That involves fully charging each with a battery charger. From my limited perspective, it's simply not worth it.

 

[John From Detroit]

Two 150 aH batteries may be less than one 300 aH battery but then you have to add in the cost of the cables. Unless two 150 aH batteries are significantly less expensive, the cost of the cables is going to eliminate any savings. The other consideration is space. Two 150aH batteries will take a lot more space than one 300 aH battery. Then, you will have to balance the two batteries from time to time. That involves fully charging each with a battery charger. From my limited perspective, it's simply not worth it.

Yes perhaps 3 or 4 (Well 8-12) more square inches. Two things are determined by AH capacity for any given voltage and chemistry.. Size and weight. So you have two more end or side wallls depending on the layout.

The other factor offsetting this is the weight.. how heavy it the battery. A 150 AH is almost exactly half the weight (Few ounces over) a 300 ah.

Cables.. If you need jumpers and are near Flint MI let me know
I have some nice 00 it will need one pair of ends crimped on .

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

No worries about the generator. For optimal charging, you will probably want to upgrade the converter/charger to have lithium-optimized charging and a great amp capacity (few 24 ft rvs are well-equipped to charge large battery banks). Tell us what you now have for a charger.

Presumably your generator is used to provide 120v power to operate the converter/charger. Rarely are they wired to directly charge 12v batteries, whether lead or lithium.

 

[DonTom]

Then, you will have to balance the two batteries from time to time.

With my two new 12V li-times in parallel, I did such, as was recommended, before the installation. They should stay balanced from now on in normal operation.

Even the cells in a single Lifepo04 battery need to be balanced, which is done automatically at the top of the charge. So they should stay balanced in normal operation as long as they see a full charge once in a while.

IOW, after once setup and working normally, they are less hassle than lead-acids, nothing to check. No corrosion on cables, no water to add, etc. Just charge them to full once in a while and forget about them. That will happen automatically when on shore power or by running the genny until they stop drawing any current. Or by solar. Just not an issue, in most cases.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[RV_Lee122]

Your stock charger/converter will see the batteries as full and only send them a trickle charge. Lithiums stay around 13 volts right until they are dead unlike lead acids which its meant for. Finding a direct swap charger/converter that will send the full charge to the new lithiums are available and a straight forward swap

 

[dipdavis]

Thanks all- let me try and answer some of your question my RV is a 2002 kodiac 24 ft. RV on a E350 super duty ford chassis similar to a chinook. As far as two batteries, they will fit nicely into the spot where I currently have 2 6 volts battery, as far as jumpers they will be around a foot each, and Im going to replace some of the older cables at the same time.
my current power center convertor is a magnetek 6300 Q series and I will replace that
with one of these power stations converters, what I'm looking at are -

PowerMax 30A RV Power Center and Distribution Panel - 45A DC Converter​

WFCO 30 amp RV power center Converter

boondocker 4 Stage Power Center 35 Amp (BD 1235PC)

These seem to have good ratings and recommendations

as far as the dc2dc I need to work on that, I currently have a new AGM truck battery

Thanks everyone for your time,

If I go this way - wife said ok LOL - what could be some pit falls, power station should go in the original spot as so will the new batteries remember I said I'm blonde and think this should take just a couple of hours

the rv is like this one 2001 Kodiak VXL 2000

BTW I was born in Flint

 

[DonTom]

my current power center convertor is a magnetek 6300 Q series and I will replace that
with one of these power stations converters, what I'm looking at are -

Good move as those 6300Qs are considered junk converters.

Just for fun, I decided to see what AI says (and I agree with it all):

"The Magnetek 6300 Q Series is a legacy RV power converter and battery charger known for issues like overcharging batteries, high DC voltage faults that can damage refrigerators, and fan failures leading to overheating. Because these units often provide a constant, unfiltered charge that can degrade battery life, they are widely considered outdated and prone to failure.

Replacement Options:

• Progressive Dynamics (PD) Replacement Sections: These are the most common direct retrofit kits for the lower converter portion of the 6300 series.
  
  • For 35-amp models (e.g., Model 6332), use PD4635V.
  • For 45-amp models (e.g., Model 6345), use PD4645V.
  • For 55-amp models, use PD4655V.
• Full Panel Replacement: If the front panel or breakers are also damaged, the PD4135K (35-amp) or PD4645V with a new panel can replace the entire unit.

Key Upgrade Benefits:

• Smart Charging: Modern replacements feature a "Charge Wizard" or 3-stage charging that prevents overcharging and extends battery lifespan.
• Lithium Compatibility: Most PD replacements include a jumper switch to adjust the charging profile for lithium, AGM, gel, and flooded lead-acid batteries.
• Reliability: New units provide true DC output and eliminate the dual-output relay issues common in the original Magnetek design.

Installation Note: Ensure the new converter section fits the existing enclosure dimensions (typically 13-1/4" long x 8" deep x 5-3/8" wide for PD sections). Verify your specific amp rating by checking the label inside your power center door before purchasing. "

 

[John From Detroit]

Good move as those 6300Qs are considered junk converters.

Just for fun, I decided to see what AI says (and I agree with it all):

"The Magnetek 6300 Q Series is a legacy RV power converter and battery charger known for issues like overcharging batteries, high DC voltage faults that can damage refrigerators, and fan failures leading to overheating. Because these units often provide a constant, unfiltered charge that can degrade battery life, they are widely considered outdated and prone to failure.

Replacement Options:

• Progressive Dynamics (PD) Replacement Sections: These are the most common direct retrofit kits for the lower converter portion of the 6300 series.
  
  • For 35-amp models (e.g., Model 6332), use PD4635V.
  • For 45-amp models (e.g., Model 6345), use PD4645V.
  • For 55-amp models, use PD4655V.
• Full Panel Replacement: If the front panel or breakers are also damaged, the PD4135K (35-amp) or PD4645V with a new panel can replace the entire unit.

Key Upgrade Benefits:

• Smart Charging: Modern replacements feature a "Charge Wizard" or 3-stage charging that prevents overcharging and extends battery lifespan.
• Lithium Compatibility: Most PD replacements include a jumper switch to adjust the charging profile for lithium, AGM, gel, and flooded lead-acid batteries.
• Reliability: New units provide true DC output and eliminate the dual-output relay issues common in the original Magnetek design.

Installation Note: Ensure the new converter section fits the existing enclosure dimensions (typically 13-1/4" long x 8" deep x 5-3/8" wide for PD sections). Verify your specific amp rating by checking the label inside your power center door before purchasing. "

Smart AI (I would have said nearly the exact ting (Different wording perhaps)
IF you are using LiFePO4 batteries be sure to specify the Progressive Dynamics converters made for them.. . The converters are identical. but the programming is a tad different. They make good stuff in Marshall Michigan.

Recently I was in Marshall due to being on residential streets when I got to a "Main" I needed to know which road it was so pulled off planning to use phone GPS. Then notice I was pulled off in PD's parking lot.. Ok no need for electronics after that. Brain knows the way from there. (Grew up a couple townships south)

 

[Isaac-1]

Is there a reason you are replacing the entire power center, instead of getting a Progressive Dynamics replacement charging section

 

[DonTom]

IF you are using LiFePO4 batteries be sure to specify the Progressive Dynamics converters made for them.

LifePo4 converters are simple compared to LA converters, and I think all the LifeP04 converters made these days are decent ones, such as my Li-Time LifePo4 ONLY converters.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[John From Detroit]

LifePo4 converters are simple compared to LA converters, and I think all the LifeP04 converters made these days are decent ones, such as my Li-Time LifePo4 ONLY converters.

-Don- Auburn, CA

No argument I just know that Progressive Dynamics makes good converterts.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

While I agree those old 6300 series chargers are obsolete, it seems to me that the 6300's failings apply to use with lead-acid batteries, e.g. overcharging and constant voltage. Probably not a factor with LiFePO4 and maybe even an advantage. That said, I'd still recommend a replacement.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

It's my opinion that any stock magnatek that hasn't let the smoke out by now is an exception. Their design flaw is how they incorporated some ballast/dropping resistors in the output that pretty much guarantees component and PCB failure in that area. At 20+ years old, all electrolytic caps are shot. The most direct solution is repair by replacement. The PD units to me seem the better choice, I wouldn't consider WFCO for several reasons.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[dipdavis]

ok now with all that said whats your opinion on adding solar in the future? do i really need it with having a generator. Don't expect - buy have no clue - about doing much ry docking

again thank in advance

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Solar can work but it takes a deliberate selection of components to fit a well defined use case. Just throwing a set of panels on the roof gives the right to say you 'have' solar. But if you want true autonomy and a system you don't have to critically manage you need to define the operating criteria and make component selections to achieve that. There can be some educational value to putting up a number of panels and observing the effect but none of this is guesswork, it all can be a predicted outcome with accurate assessments.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[DonTom]

ok now with all that said whats your opinion on adding solar in the future? do i really need it with having a generator. Don't expect - buy have no clue - about doing much ry docking

again thank in advance

I will explain my Y2K RV solar setup here. I mainly use the Y2K motorhome for boondocking and driving on unpaved roads, etc.

I set up my Y2K RV using three 200-watt solar panels in series--total of 600 watts--portable on the ground.

Many advantages of a ground setup up, such as pointing direct at the sun and easy replacement, easy to work on, etc. Just more hassle to set up, but we all usually have a lot of time when boondocked.

The solar will often mean you do not need to use the genny at all, but there will be exceptions such as dark cloudy days or if in shade near no sunlight. With mine, I have it so I can add lengths to the cables if I need to go farther to find sun away from my boondocked RV.

I just use three of these from HFT but to a single Victron solar controller that can handle the solar voltage & current. I have this monitor to watch the charge--which I can also see on a Smartphone with my Smartshunt.

I know exactly when my 300-AH Li-Time house battery is fully charged. On most days, I have no need to run the genny at all and have a full charge by late afternoon, if not sooner.

And my 300 AH battery gets a lot of use during the night. I usually stay up well past midnight. Ham radio stuff, TV other stuff and make coffee in the morning with my Keurig. I will most likely use the MW oven a couple of times, etc. with the inverter and all with no need for the genny. So my battery does get discharged a little, but usually gets recharged to full before the next night.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[dipdavis]

thank guys for all the info-
here is the next line of questions, I am replacing the old power station with a new powermax PowerMax Converters PPC-30-55LK and also upgrading to a eco-worthy 280 - got a great price on aliexpress less the $300.

The old wires -white and black- connected to the 2 6 volts batteries wires are 8 amp size and the wires are same size on the new power the control unit. is that right I'm confussed