Locked in! Trimark 060-1650 door handle/lock (used in many Class A, Class C, and TT)

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k6ncx

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There were lots of posts on this topic a few years ago but unfortunately it's not all in the past. Some RV manufacturers issued recalls for this (and presumably had a satisfactory solution.) Others didn't. I know for sure that Trimark and at least some of the RV manufacturers knew about this at least back to 2014 and I believe much earlier. One forum post referred to a known problem with Trimark locks made in 2003, but I hope that was a typo.

I have read about people getting locked in or out of their motorhomes or trailers and hoped it wouldn't happen to me. Two or three years ago it did. We Gt locked out at Bonneville Salt Flats. It wasn't that we didn't have our keys. As has been known to happen many times, the plunger (or live bolt) had broken and could not be retracted. It was made of brittle pot metal.

This was long after Trimark reportedly started using a steel plunger. I got a replacement for the whole assembly (ouch!) and installed it.

Well, last night I was locked in when the replacement broke. This time I know how to get it open - good thing I knew it was the right way because I had to fight with it quite a bit, Yep, new plunger broke. But this time the was also a smallish black plastic piece that broke in two

Trimark websiite say the plunger is made of "zinc alloy." Huh? Supposedly they changed to steel in 2017 or so. On Amazon, there are multiple questions about whether the 060-1650 comes with steel or pot metal plunger. About half the answers are one way, half the other. I'm not willing to spend the money to get a replacement that might or might not be good.

It's 2021, and I'm trying to deal with a 2014 (or 2003?) problem in a motorhome built in 2016.
 
I'm curious where you got parts to repair it at the Bonneville Salt Flats. I've spent some time in that area...Wendover...and there sure wasn't any RV repair places, etc.
 
k6ncx said:
Multiple people have posted about having to tweek either the door or the lock. You've used it ti replace the 060-1650 without having to do anything?
Click to expand...
The last time I installed one was a Bargman L-300 replacement that needed no tweaking, but I do recall having to tweak the opening slightly with a file for a Trimark replacement. I don't recall if that was a 060-1650 or a 060-0650 though. Mostly it just needed squaring of the rounded corners of the opening. Not a big deal...
 
Best advice I ever saw was to look at your lock from the inside and keep whatever screwdriver, torx driver and so on to remove it. And/Or do a test removal so you know the tools are correct and can tell someone else how to remove.

I always keep my drivers window unlocked so maybe I can get my fat ass into it if I had too or find a young teen I could help in to unlock the door.

I have had the youngest grand daughter flip the latch more than once but the wife has always been inside with her to open the door. But I also have a key hidden and check it when I set up.
 
Class A's only have one way to get into them, while Class C's have three ways. IMO, another door on the opposite side would be a nice feature on a Class A.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
DonTom said:
Class A's only have one way to get into them, while Class C's have three ways. IMO, another door on the opposite side would be a nice feature on a Class A.

-Don- Auburn, CA
Click to expand...
I used to think that, but then I wouldn't want to give up the "floor/wall space". Some class A coaches had a driver's door, Winnebago and Tiffin are two. I think it is Thor that installs an emergency door in some models, it would be a jump/fall down to the ground to use it.
 
I think it is Thor that installs an emergency door in some models, it would be a jump/fall down to the ground to use it.
Click to expand...
Newmar has an emergency rear door in many (most) recent models. In my 2016 it's in the bathroom, but it's a ways to the ground (I have a ladder) and there is no external door handle, so must be opened from the inside.
 
Our current Georgie Boy Landau as well as our previous Coachmen Catalina both have drivers side doors. I seldom use the door for general access, but it is handy for under dash access without standing on my head and quick access to the controls when troubleshooting problems or performing service work. We did use it for access to the interior of the Coachmen when the Trimark 060-0600 latch broke years ago locking us out. For that one, I had a retired machinist friend make a replacement piece from stainless steel in his home shop.
 
Yes, our CruiseMaster has a driver's side door and I really like it. It's handy at the pumps, for sure.
 
k6ncx said:
One forum post referred to a known problem with Trimark locks made in 2003, but I hope that was a typo.
Click to expand...
Not a typo. Here's my message on the issue with our 2003 Monaco Camelot:

Locked out of the coach

At the first stop on our most recent trip (Bakersfiled, CA), Chris was locked out of the coach. Fortunately, I was still inside and able to open the door. The outside latch handle merely flopped around, although the deadbolt worked fine. I attempted to access the latch mechanism from the...
www.rvforum.net
 
There's a kit on the market to replace the broken part. It's made from stainless steel.
 

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We usually leave one window unlocked -->> I can still lift my wife...

We also leave very basic tools in the coach the fancier ones are in the basement.
 
Domo said:
We usually leave one window unlocked -->> I can still lift my wife...

We also leave very basic tools in the coach the fancier ones are in the basement.
Click to expand...
Yup, after hearing so many tales of being locked in or out, we do the same thing. We also really only use the electronic lock on the key fob instead of the keyed lock. In fact, I nearly panicked when we went to pick it up from service, and they had locked the deadbolt! Luckily we didn’t have a problem, but I was still glad the unlocked window was there for backup.
 
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k6ncx said:
There were lots of posts on this topic a few years ago but unfortunately it's not all in the past. Some RV manufacturers issued recalls for this (and presumably had a satisfactory solution.) Others didn't. I know for sure that Trimark and at least some of the RV manufacturers knew about this at least back to 2014 and I believe much earlier. One forum post referred to a known problem with Trimark locks made in 2003, but I hope that was a typo.

I have read about people getting locked in or out of their motorhomes or trailers and hoped it wouldn't happen to me. Two or three years ago it did. We Gt locked out at Bonneville Salt Flats. It wasn't that we didn't have our keys. As has been known to happen many times, the plunger (or live bolt) had broken and could not be retracted. It was made of brittle pot metal.

This was long after Trimark reportedly started using a steel plunger. I got a replacement for the whole assembly (ouch!) and installed it.

Well, last night I was locked in when the replacement broke. This time I know how to get it open - good thing I knew it was the right way because I had to fight with it quite a bit, Yep, new plunger broke. But this time the was also a smallish black plastic piece that broke in two

Trimark websiite say the plunger is made of "zinc alloy." Huh? Supposedly they changed to steel in 2017 or so. On Amazon, there are multiple questions about whether the 060-1650 comes with steel or pot metal plunger. About half the answers are one way hjyhardware, half the other. I'm not willing to spend the money to get a replacement that might or might not be good.

It's 2021, and I'm trying to deal with a 2014 (or 2003?) problem in a motorhome built in 2016.
Click to expand...
Door lock failed, culd not get into the RV but had to go through unlocked front window. Could not open door from the inside so ended up taking the lock apart. The sliding shaft had broken in half so could not be pulled out of jam with key or inside mechanism. I am putting a new Trimark in but am now worried about the future. Is it going to happen again and if there were a fire I'm afraid that human life would be in danger.

I have reported this to the NHTSA.

There was another thread on this for all Forest River products but to old to reply to.
 
I'm fortunate to have both a drivers door and Bargman lock on our motorhome, but the Tri-mark breaking bolt issue has been around for a long time. Even the newer version that's supposed to be an improvement still has issues. The Latch Fix kit linked above is probably the best answer other than possibly having a local machine shop make the part for you from stainless steel.
 
We are also fortunate to have a drivers door because we have Tri-Mark. Replaced 3 so now carrying spare. Current is Bauer which fit with some grinding on lock to camphor edge to allow it to fit. First time Dan brought the Dremel and new drill!!

Driver door top door latch control and tools to remove lock have been added to the check list. :LOL:
 
DO you still have the old one?
What I suggest.. Take either the old bolt or the new one to a metal smith and have him carve a new bolt out of STEEL.. He might want to shave say 1 mill off (1/1000th of an inch) but boil it in oil and lube it well before installing.

I had the same issue (And solution)

I also had the same problem with my tri-mark basement locks
I had a bunch of bolts made for those (Also got good at fixing 'em but that takes tools most don't have) I ended up giving I think 4 to my favorite RV-Girl (Well that's her license plate)

WHy did it break
The metal they use is cheap pot metal.. the highest stress point (Where it broke) is the weakest point on the dang striker bolt (What it's called)
 
TriMark model 060-1650 is the lock we have. TriMark 060-1625 is the same without deadbolt. TriMark changed to a steel plunger and added a plastic plunger guide. I did not try is determine dates.

John, we have all but the first one that broke. First two broke the plunger but the last was last was due to destroyed plastic guide.

I saw the LatchFix.com kit year(s) prior but did not properly investigate it. I will be ordering one after viewing website. In addition to the plunger construction it says eliminates plastic guide.

Note in 2009 they increased the diameter of the striker alignment pins so the door can not close. TriMark "Solution: Some motorhomes that are model year 2009 and older will have a strike plate with narrower slots for the striker alignment pins. If this is the case with your motorhome, you will need to install a new striker plate. If your service kit did not include a new striker plate, you can contact TriMark at (800) 431-8616 to order a new striker plate." I question if replacement of the door frame strike plate is a simple task? :unsure:
 
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