Look Ma, No Trailer Brakes (at least not enough brakes)

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Foto-n-T

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Posts
1,180
Location
Cody, Wyoming - Sometimes
We snowbird in AZ in the winter months and at some point before the temps get into the 90's I always pull all the hubs (triple axle), repack wheel bearings and inspect brakes. This year I had three bad brakes on one side which is a first but not unexpected. I replaced all three with auto adjusters which I didn't even know existed and all was right with the world. I did pre-adjust the auto's by the way. Unfortunately I didn't bother to test drive the rig after this and just assumed all was good. When the wheels are in the air the brakes function and lock up on all wheel positions, I did at least static test them while they were off the ground. Last week we moved locations as we weren't quite ready to migrate back to WY yet. During the move I became aware that I only had partial braking on the 5th wheel, what I would estimate at about 30% of what I should have.

I discussed the issue with a mobile mechanic who specializes in trailer brake systems on everything from horse trailers to boats and everything in between. He was of the opinion that given the age of the rig (2008) that the wiring inside the axles had probably chafed and was grounding out. That made sense so I spent two days re-wiring all three axles checking the voltage along the way, I soldered all connections as I don't trust crimp connectors. The front axle only was showing 12 volts with the panic lever thrown, center and front together showed 10 plus and finally with all three axles wired up I was down to 7.75 volts. We took it out for a test drive Friday and sure enough I'm still lacking anywhere near full braking.

The next step was to head down to an RV repair facility that I trust, I've known their parts guy for years and my wife used to work with him. I gave him the long sad story and he suggested that the brake controller may be knocking on deaths door. The controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy which has been on the truck for 16 years. I have a new Prodigy controller (suitable for 4 axles) coming in tomorrow and we'll hook her up and see what happens. If it doesn't do the trick I'll be at a loss, I can probably baby this beast back to Wyoming by going around South Pass in WY which is a hundred or so miles out of route but there is NO WAY I'm going down any long grades with just an exhaust brake and 30% of my trailer brakes.

In my research this weekend I read in the Prodigy instructions that it is a no-no to pull the break away switch while hooked up to the truck. A couple of times over the years the cable has gotten snagged on something during a tight turn and yanked itself out bringing me to a halt in the middle of a driveway or such. I'm hoping that this is what indeed caused the controller failure if it is indeed a controller failure.
 
I'll be interested in your results as our UK pick up has the same controller and a couple of times our emergency cable has snagged and pulled the break away switch. I soon new as the trailer stopped dead. I've had no suspicion about the brakes but I would like to know if we need to get a replacement controller.
 
I'll be interested in your results as our UK pick up has the same controller and a couple of times our emergency cable has snagged and pulled the break away switch. I soon new as the trailer stopped dead. I've had no suspicion about the brakes but I would like to know if we need to get a replacement controller.
I guess we'll both find out tomorrow.
 
The front axle only was showing 12 volts with the panic lever thrown, center and front together showed 10 plus and finally with all three axles wired up I was down to 7.75 volts.
I'm not sure but to me that sounds like a voltage drop due to trying to draw too much current for the wire size or some bad connections in the circuit that induce unwanted resistance. I would first check the brake pin of the umbilical cord with an ohm meter as that would be my first suspect. If it is badly corroded or dirty that might be enough to cause a problem. If the connection is good you should be able to measure from a point in the trailer, through the connected plug, to a location on the tow truck and it should be no more than 1 ohm or so through the plug connection. The lower that resistance, the better.
 
Unless auto adjusters have changed greatly from when I last worked on brakes they only work in REVERSE. the assumption is you back up often enough to adjust them. Not so much when pulling a trailer.

Also check for glazing of the drum and shoes.
 
I have no idea what is causing your problem but I do know one thing. I would never tow that trailer not even 100’. You are placing your life in jeopardy along with anyone else you may be exposed to.on the road. Way too dangerous IMHO.
 
Just wondering if the new controller sorted out your braking problems
 
So here's what I've learned from this little experience. Yes indeed brake controllers do go bad with no error or warning codes visible. I installed a new Tekonsha Prodigy (1-4 axle) controller last Monday. The test drive after installation was a success with full braking so we punched out of AZ Tuesday morning. We landed in Rock Springs, WY yesterday evening and will cross the divide at South Pass this morning. Even with an exhaust brake and full brakes on the rig that east descent to Lander is a harry ride. I've been rolling down that grade in an RV for twenty years and it always keeps me on my toes.
 
I installed a new Tekonsha Prodig

Thank you.. Tekonsha products are named for Tekonsha, MI.. which is two townships south of Marshall, MI home of Progressive Dynamics and the only decent traffic Round about in Michigan (Brooks Memoria Fountain is in the center of that traffic circle)

I Went to School in Tekonsha with the daughter of the fonder and later a class mate of mine was CEO of the company

They make good products.

The company has been sold a time or two and the HQ is now in Rochester Hills Mi.. a county south of where I live.
 
So here's what I've learned from this little experience. Yes indeed brake controllers do go bad with no error or warning codes visible. I installed a new Tekonsha Prodigy (1-4 axle) controller last Monday. The test drive after installation was a success with full braking so we punched out of AZ Tuesday morning. We landed in Rock Springs, WY yesterday evening and will cross the divide at South Pass this morning. Even with an exhaust brake and full brakes on the rig that east descent to Lander is a harry ride. I've been rolling down that grade in an RV for twenty years and it always keeps me on my toes.
I too have a Prodigy controller, be aware it is always on. It goes to "sleep" when unused and wakes up when the brake pedal is depressed, but there's a battery draw constantly.
I don't drive my truck much, perhaps 2x a week. If I don't drive my truck for 3 days the battery is depleted enough to not start the engine.
This is not a problem if you drive at least every other day.
My solution is to pull the plug on the back of the controller until it's needed.
 
I have a P3 in my RAM and it stays plugged in all the time, never any problems. I suspect it is vehicle brand/model specific problem. My entire truck goes to sleep until the door is opened, at which time it lights up the brake controller, spikes all of the light circuits to test the lamps (You won't know its doing it with incandescent lamps but with the LED headlights, they flash for a second). and shows the odometer for a period of time.

Charles
 
I have a P3 in my RAM and it stays plugged in all the time, never any problems. I suspect it is vehicle brand/model specific problem.
I would expect it depends on what power source the controller is wired to, e.g. direct to battery, ignition-switched 12v, auxiliary power 12v (which may "sleep" on newer vehicles), etc. But I think if you use one of the vehicle-specific pigtails with a new P3, it will be "always on" (battery power) and rely on the P3 itself to "sleep" when not needed.
 
Prodigy Brake controllers have a limited lifetime warranty. The main catch you have to have a copy of the original purchase receipt.
If you are like me you probably do not have it unless you purchased it from E-trailer or Amazon and if you did they may still have a record of the purchase.
But I recommend keeping a copy of your new controller receipt with your tow vehicle records.

I like my P3 as it gives you many diagnostic tools. It will tell you what the applied voltage and current drawn is. Most brake magnets draw about 1/4 amp per volt applied. Thus on my 2 axle trailer I should get about 1 amp per volt applied. I check for this every time before I leave on a new tow.

As for a switch to turn off the brake controller that is a bad idea in my mind. Too easy to forget to activate the controller and could result in a very bad day.

I have left my truck for several months and never had a battery problem.
 
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