Lost RV Power After Running A/Cs and Power Washer

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Original Member Title: Blown electrical system
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An RVer lost most 120V power after running both air conditioners and starting a power washer while cleaning the canopy. They replaced a spare transfer switch without fixing the issue, while also dealing with newly installed lead-acid golf cart batteries that had severe terminal corrosion and then failed.

Members suggested the transfer switch might not be the problem and advised checking the pedestal breaker, the RV main breaker, and fully resetting all breakers by switching them firmly off...
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Ohiosnowbird

Senior Member
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May 19, 2023
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S.E Ohio or Wherever we are
We were in the middle of power washing the canopy when most of the breakers blew. He had both air conditioners on and then started the power washer. Complete and total user error but it is what it is. We previously had replaced the transfer switch because of an overload caused it to fail last year and that solved the problem. It is this transfer switch

IMG_1821.jpeg


He bought an extra one in case it happened on the road, so he installed it which did not solve the problem. So we have no electricity. Then the batteries failed. These were also new, lead acid deep cycle golf cart batteries. The terminals were covered in corrosion and about ready to fall off. We replaced the previous ones, the ones Thor installed for the same reason. When the new ones were installed he put a protective coating to prevent this from happening again but it did. He’s ordered 2 LiTime LiHeat™ 12V 100Ah Group 24 Dual-Mode Self Heating Bluetooth Lithium Deep Cycle Batteries and has installed a lithium battery he got locally so we could at least have the 12v system. He’s stumped about the rest of the system and says he’s not sure what to do but ask you guys if you can make any suggestions.
 
o we have no electricity. Then the batteries failed. These were also new, lead acid deep cycle golf cart batteries. The terminals were covered in corrosion and about ready to fall off. We replaced the previous ones, the ones Thor installed for the same reason.
Lead-acid batteries are actually quite resilient. To make one fail usually involves some kind of dead short or being depleted for a very long time.

to lose two sets indicates that you have charging issues that will not be solved by different battery chemistries.
 
Lead-acid batteries are actually quite resilient. To make one fail usually involves some kind of dead short or being depleted for a very long time.

to lose two sets indicates that you have charging issues that will not be solved by different battery chemistries.
Hubby said the same thing about lead acid batteries and doesn’t understand how these new ones failed either. They had water. They were hooked to a solar panel. Turning the truck part on (we’re in a class C) charges them, until it didn’t. We were wondering about the solar panel, how do you know if it’s the solar panel? How do you check? It was the original solar panel Thor put on and everything else on here was very sub-par.
 
Time to stop replacing expensive things based only on guesswork. Get out a meter and start diagnosing where the power is lost. And don't mix up the 12v DC battery loss with the 120v AC shore power loss. New batteries can't restore lost shore power, but loss of 120v shore power prevents further battery charging and the batteries will eventually run down to no volts.

The best help we can give you is some education on RV power systems and how the 120v and 12v systems complement each other while remaining separate. Here are a few sources that may help:
 
We were in the middle of power washing the canopy when most of the breakers blew.
Washing the awning shouldn't have caused that so he must have sprayed water into the 120V power distribution somewhere. As suggested in post #3, open and reclose every one of the circuit breakers to be sure that they are not tripped. Looking at one just is not sufficient.
Time to stop replacing expensive things based only on guesswork. Get out a meter and start diagnosing where the power is lost.
If you have a meter and know the basic use of it, that is the way to go. If not, you probably need some experienced help.
 
Our electric system problem is solved. Thanks for your help!

With the time it was taking with the multi-meter, and all the other fun man-gadgets to assess the problem, he decided it was more time prudent to replace the entire system including wiring, which was typical cheap Thor system. He also added a RV smartplug, which was previously purchased because of arcing that was occurring in some campgrounds.
 
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He also added a RV smartplug, which was previously purchased because of arcing that wa occurring in some campgrounds.
The way to prevent that is by turning off the circuit breaker on the power pedestal before you plug into it. And that is the safe way to do so also, especially if the area is damp or wet. That spark happens because there is power being drawn as you are connecting.
 
The way to prevent that is by turning off the circuit breaker on the power pedestal before you plug into it. And that is the safe way to do so also, especially if the area is damp or wet. That spark happens because there is power being drawn as you are connecting.
We know that. Thank you.
 
The way to prevent that is by turning off the circuit breaker on the power pedestal before you plug into it. And that is the safe way to do so also, especially if the area is damp or wet. That spark happens because there is power being drawn as you are connecting.
I was in a RV park in New Mexico that the three availabile sites had the shore power breaker bypassed. I have a home made tester and check shore power on every site before I plug into it.

I told the office about it and the lady just shrugged her shoulders. Didn't plug in that night as it was while we were headed home and only there for the night.

So I recommend testing to make sure the breaker shuts off before plugging into a shore pedestal.
 
What 'system' ? The original post implied the whole coach was dark.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
The entire electrical system. The whole coach was dark.

He found wires that were never connected, which would explain why the AGS system never worked right. There were disconnected wires under the rig. In the compartment where the converter and transfer switch live were also unjoined, disconnected wires. He had a pretty big list Of stuff he found. I really wasn’t paying close attention, I can do laundry now, so I’m happy. He feels the biggest culprit was the wiring near and around the batteries, they were unbelievably corroded for no clear reason which he then switched to lithium. We were lucky we didn’t have some sort of fire.

This coach has been a pretty big lemon since day one. He’s still poking around at things verifying everything works as he thinks it should.

Hubby used to be a home builder and historic house renovator where he is no stranger to weird electric problems. He was just hoping someone here would have said , “oh yeah, just do this…”. Never that easy with our rig.

Thanks again everyone.
 
Well it seems your hubby is capable of re-wiring and likely knows how to trace wires to figure out what goes where. Something I can also do basically almost "In my sleep" but then .. Done it many times and have the needed tools as well (Proper tools are .... Usefull)

You mentioned corrosion in the battery compartment "When you witched to lithium.


IF you are saying he found the corrosion WHEN HE SWITCHED I know what the reason for it was.

Old Lead ACID batteries were overcharged and boiled (Some older converters did that) and spit acid all over everywhere... Hence corrosion.. Clean it up replace what needs it should not return with Li batteries... I hope

Bypassed circuit breakers.

If the park management seems "Unconcerned" Contact the city and suggest they inspect those sites. (In some cases it might be the county inspector) Bypassed breakers are 1000% Illegal and finding just one, if not fixed, lead to a park being Fined, Closed or even an owner getting "Free Government Housing" for a period of time (Jail/Prison) . OR WORSE (Dead customer)
 

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