Lovely to be here but i need help with Classic Supreme

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Mikeetron

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Posts
6
Location
New York, NY
I have a 2003 Great West Classic Supreme that has 9000 miles. Everything is low hrs but for some reason I cant get my brand new 2 deep cycle battery system on to turn on my deep cycle and propane systems. Breakers and switches are on. I can find the solenoid that charges the DCB from the alternator. Help I'm freezingšŸ„¶
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,232
Location
Farmington NH
I have a 2003 Great West Classic Supreme that has 9000 miles. Everything is low hrs but for some reason I cant get my brand new 2 deep cycle battery system on to turn on my deep cycle and propane systems. Breakers and switches are on. I can find the solenoid that charges the DCB from the alternator. Help I'm freezingšŸ„¶
Welcome to the forum.
Look around for a master shutoff switch, Its usually red. Mine is in the water bay where most of my hookups are. My friends is just inside a compartment on the opposite side of his rig,
 

SpencerPJ

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Posts
3,972
Location
Midwest
Are you getting power to your breakers? Usually breakers are for AC system, the 12vdc side typically is fuses. You might need to buy a cheap meter or voltage detector to analyze. 2. I'm not very familiar with your class b, but on my trailer, between the battery (your deep cycle ones) and the fuse box is a fuse that went bad, might look for something like this
 

Heli_av8tor

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Posts
1,004
Location
NW Illinois
Welcome to the forum.
I can't help with your specific problem other than to suggest reporting with a title that closely reflects your problem.
Many of us skip over topics when we don't think we have anything to offer or are not of interest.
Good luck
 

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
75,890
Location
Looking to buy a new home
I infer this is a Class B motorhome. Be aware that few (if any) of us will be at all familiar with your "Classic Supreme" or its systems, so you will have to explain in some detail what you have and how it is supposed to work. Also, did this work OK before you installed new batteries? If yes, what is different.

One common problem when changing batteries is a momentary short that blows the reverse-polarity protection fuses in the built-in 12v battery charging system (not the engine alternator). The fuses would be in the charger itself, not the branch circuit panel for the coach.
 

Kirk

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2005
Posts
2,466
Location
Full-time , Escapee
Help I'm freezing
It is quite some time later than your first post so I hope that you have found a solution. Since I do not know I'll offer a few thoughts. First is that if you are not connected to 120V shore power, find a way to do so. That would also allow the use of a small electric heater and that should warm your small RV. If have not done so, check the reverse polarity as Gary has suggested. And while you are about it, make very sure that you have the batteries connected properly.
61c382f5ba3db55d4f417fa8.jpg
 

Mikeetron

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Posts
6
Location
New York, NY
Are you getting power to your breakers? Usually breakers are for AC system, the 12vdc side typically is fuses. You might need to buy a cheap meter or voltage detector to analyze. 2. I'm not very familiar with your class b, but on my trailer, between the battery (your deep cycle ones) and the fuse box is a fuse that went bad, might look for something like this
Thanks Spencer for your and everyone's assistance here. I looked and the closest part that looks similar I found is this. Mostly everything on the RV is barely used, but this part got really battered.
 

Attachments

  • 20220119_204718.jpg
    20220119_204718.jpg
    148.4 KB · Views: 25

Kirk

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2005
Posts
2,466
Location
Full-time , Escapee
Do you have a volt/ohm meter to do some troubleshooting with? The black device just above the battery looks to be a high current fuse and my very well be open and not passing any power. The sliver device in the upper left of the picture is a Trombetta DC contactor and is probably one of those in this link. I suspect that it is a battery isolator but it could be the solenoid that connects to the 12V supply from the chassis alternator.
 

John From Detroit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
26,119
Location
Davison Michigan
That is in fact a circuit breaker.. Most likely a 'self resetting' type

To test.. Using a test light (Link below) ground the clip and when NOT plugged in touch the tip to the battery positive.. BRIGHT good. now touch each of the two terminal bolts on the breaker BRIGHT/BRIGHT good.. BRIGHT/Dark (or dim) bad.

Test light at Horrible Freight

NOTE: There are more expensive ones with LED's I like the incandescent type because they give a better test.

Note 2: I often have to Remove and reposition the light to get mine to work (Why you do the test at the battery first)
 

Mikeetron

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Posts
6
Location
New York, NY
So I measured the voltage on the 2 prongs of the fuse, top prong is 14.2 volts coinciding with the alternator. The fuse bottom prong zero volts.(fuse block obviously shot). Then I measured the 3 Trombetta prongs. Both side prongs are at zero volts. The center smaller gaged prong is 13.6 volts... I'm thinking the fuse has to be perfect first before measuring the solenoid anyway?.. Then the fuse is so petrified I cant even get the model to purchase.
 

gwinger

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Posts
211
Location
Natrona Hts PA
So I measured the voltage on the 2 prongs of the fuse, top prong is 14.2 volts coinciding with the alternator. The fuse bottom prong zero volts.(fuse block obviously shot). Then I measured the 3 Trombetta prongs. Both side prongs are at zero volts. The center smaller gaged prong is 13.6 volts... I'm thinking the fuse has to be perfect first before measuring the solenoid anyway?.. Then the fuse is so petrified I cant even get the model to purchase.
Take your your picture to an auto parts store. They will have them. Will probably be a 30 amp
 

Ex-Calif

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Posts
2,787
Location
NorthCentral Florida
So I measured the voltage on the 2 prongs of the fuse, top prong is 14.2 volts coinciding with the alternator. The fuse bottom prong zero volts.(fuse block obviously shot). Then I measured the 3 Trombetta prongs. Both side prongs are at zero volts. The center smaller gaged prong is 13.6 volts... I'm thinking the fuse has to be perfect first before measuring the solenoid anyway?.. Then the fuse is so petrified I cant even get the model to purchase.
The center prong activates the solenoid and "connects" the two thick wires. If the center has 13.6V then the solenoid is not activating and is probably shot internally.

This diagram is for my Chev P30 chassis but the isolator relay works the same.

Alternator Isolator Schematic.JPG
 
Top Bottom