Low Water Flow After Winterizing and Regulator Setup

[grashley]

First, sorry for my absence. Lyme Issues.
Question 1 I have a "good" pressure regulator. Connected to my house and no water flow, pressure reads 70 psi, which I assume is the incoming line pressure, even past the regulator??? When water is flowing freely, filling the fresh tank, pressure drops to around 20psi, regardless of regulator setting. Free flow pressure? How do I set the regulator? Should the gauge not read regulated pressure?

Question 2 I winterized the RV last fall with simple thorough blowdown, bypass and drain water heater. I am trying to sanitize system. I chlorinated and 80% filled the fresh tank last night. This morning, I tried to fill water lines with chlorinated water, using the pump. After flushing some air, good flow was established in cold lines at the outside shower, a foot from the pump, and bath sink and toilet, above the pump. Virtually NO FLOW at cold kitchen sink or shower. On the hot side, I switched to normal flow and I got some air purge from the outside shower and pressure relief valve on the WH. No more than a dribble anywhere else. Same flow issues before moving the bypass valve.
I reconnected to city water and flow patterns did not change.
What am I missing? Probably something simple.
Gordon

 

[Kirk]

, pressure reads 70 psi, which I assume is the incoming line pressure,

That is the pressure out of the regulator and should be observed with the water heater and all water lines full and all faucets closed, so no water is moving. What you are setting is the maximum pressure the system will ever see and that happens when the water supply is on but no water in use, or in other words, static pressure. The purpose is to protect the water lines from too much pressure. Any time that you are using water that pressure will fall to some lower level, depending upon the maximum water volume the regulator can supply, compared to the amount of water flowing out of the system. The closer the water use is to the maximum the regulator can supply, the lower that pressure will read. Once you stop using any water it will return to the maxim pressure it is set for.

Question 1 How do I set the regulator? Should the gauge not read regulated pressure?

I keep mine set at 60 psi and the way to adjust it is to adjust and then run some water, stop the water use and read the pressure again. If you are increasing the set pressure you will see it increase even with no water running but if setting the regulator to a lower pressure you have to run a bit of water for that to drop.

What am I missing? Probably something simple.

The regulator is a safety device intended to protect the system from excessive supply pressures. Some areas have water pressures that exceed 100 psi and others have pressures that vary widely. The regulator there to prevent exposing your system to those pressures. Most RV water pumps are set to turn off automatically when the internal pressure reaches 45# and a few may go as high as 60# from the factory. Nearly all of the pumps are adjustable for maximum pressure.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

After flushing some air, good flow was established in cold lines at the outside shower, a foot from the pump, and bath sink and toilet, above the pump. Virtually NO FLOW at cold kitchen sink or shower.

When only some faucets have little or no flow, odds a re strong that the problem is a clogged aerator screen at the faucet mouth. Minerals collect on the screen and dry out with lack of use (flow), clogging or even caking on the screen. Remove and clean - an acidic solution like vinegar helps.

On the hot side, I switched to normal flow and I got some air purge from the outside shower and pressure relief valve on the WH. No more than a dribble anywhere else. Same flow issues before moving the bypass valve.

Similar problem but the clog is probably in the check valve at the water tank outlet. The check valve is stuck closed and no water can exit the heater tank. Opening the bypass does what it says, i.e. bypasses the heater and the clog,

 

[Rene T]

Gary talked about the check valve on the exit pipe from the tank. The easiest thing to do is remove it and using a Philips screw driver, knock out the internals of the valve. That is a temporary fix and it will not need to be replaced until you need to winterize again.
For any member, if you are in an area where you do not need to winterize, just leave it installed with no internals. That check valve is only used to stop the pink stuff from filling your water heater

 

[grashley]

Kirk: That is exactly what I thought. I will try again with this assurance.

I have no hot water pressure in any faucet, whether the tank is bypassed or not.
I have no cold water pressure in the shower or kitchen, but good pressure in the bathroom sink and toilet.

 

[grashley]

Kirk: you were right. I had backed the control out 8 or 10 turns. Thought that was enough. When I backed it out 2 or 3 more turns, I gained control.

Gary: What I actually had was a LARGE buildup of mush. It was soft and easily brushed and rinsed out. Everything is working!!!

Thank you all.