Low water pressure

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richclover

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Neighbors in our winter runaway rv park have a new Venom by KZ. I don’t know the model number. It’s a triple axle toy hauler.

All the water system valves are correctly set for city water. Good pressure at the park faucet. Water filter at the faucet checks ok. Hose is ok. Pressure regulator, at city water inlet working. But the water pressure in the kitchen and bathroom is very low. Removing the regulator (standard after market 40-50 psi), allows more “normal” pressure inside the camper.

Question is: Are manufacturers installing regulators in water systems? Nothing in the Venom paper work sheds light on the subject.
 
Are manufacturers installing regulators in water systems? Nothing in the Venom paper work sheds light on the subject.
I have wondered the same.

But I know this RV has an internal replaceable water filter. Perhaps yours does also. Have you checked for a water filter? Perhaps you need a new one.

-Don- Bay St. Louis, MS
 
I have wondered the same.

But I know this RV has an internal replaceable water filter. Perhaps yours does also. Have you checked for a water filter? Perhaps you need a new one.

-Don- Bay St. Louis, MS
Thanks, Don. I’ll talk to the neighbors, in their Venom, this morning and ask about a possible filter.
 
How is the pressure using the onboard pump and water storage ?

The standard pre-set pressure regulators are not dependable. A watts adjustable pressure regulator with a pressure gauge is a much better system. Cost is about $100 or so and you will need fittings to adapt.

I did use one of those pre-set regulators and it worked fine for a while then began acting up. I replaced it with an adjustable watts regulator and its been really good.

The city water chemistry plays large into how well a regulator will work and how long. If you are in Florida for example, chances are the water is high in calcium and that craps up things pretty good and pretty fast.
 
Removing the regulator (standard after market 40-50 psi), allows more “normal” pressure inside the camper.
What does "more normal" pressure mean? This would sound like he is using one of the cheap pressure regulators that have too small a port for the volume of water to keep up with the demands. That would be the first thing that I would look at as it is very unlikely that there is another regulator built into the RV and if there were, taking the other out wouldn't change anything unless the one removed was the problem. If you buy the cheapest regulator you will always get poor results. It doesn't have to be an adjustable one, but they are best. It does need to be a high flow model if you don't get an adjustable one. If you do buy and adjustable regulator, do not buy the cheapest one that you can find as some of those also have a water passage that is so small that it restricts the volume of water and results in low water pressures when in use.
 
Listen to Kirk. Lack of "pressure" is most always inadequate water flow, e.g. a small diameter opening, clogged filter screen, etc. Those small in-line regulators are notorious for a low flow rate, often 2 cfm max. Get one of the more expensive high flow models or an adjustable like Henry described. Or just leave it off - it is unnecessary with pressures under about 65 psi.

Check the screen at the city inlet - it may be crushed or clogged with sand or debris. Or the check valve in the inlet may not be opening as fully as it should. There used to be city inlets that had regulators built in, but I haven't seen any in years. I doubt if that's the problem in a newer model.
 
I have a KZ have them pull the airiator screens off at the fousets, they will likely find a bunch of left over plastic. I think KZ dills the holes to make connections and they do not clean the debris, seems like a common complaint on the KZ forum.
 

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