Magnadyne VCS-10

8Muddypaws

8Muddypaws

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2004
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4,760
Location
California
All of a sudden my BOMB (box of many buttons) has stopped working. I've verified that it's getting power but neither of our TVs finds any channels.

Anybody have experience with these things? Know how it can be tested?

This is the exact model I have.

Failing that I would like to replace it with one that only has cable and antenna inputs & outputs for 2 TVs.

Thanks,
Russ
 

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First pass test would be to bypass the box, connecting the antenna or cable input directly to a TV using an F connector adapter. Right at where the box is, so you're also verifying the cabling. Use the signal strength meter in the TV diagnostic menu so you can see signal amplitudes rather than just go/no-go picture there or not. If direct connect is a bust you have a cable or antenna problem. If direct connect is a go but the box is not, then I'd be cross connecting inputs and outputs, testing different paths than what would be typical. Is the problem confined to just the antenna input, or just one TV output. Maybe just one path or port is TU and by using a different arrangement the box still has functionality for your application. If it works out the BOMB is totally inop, then you can entertain fixing or replacing it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Thanks Mark.

I already did the bypass test and got nothing. I've never seen a signal strength function on either TV. (LG and Visio) I'll fish around more.

I'm thinking the problem has to be either the antenna connection or the power output from the BOMB to the powered antenna. It's an old Winegard batwing. It requires 12V @ 100ma. The BOMB is supposed to supply that.

I didn't bring my big toolbox this time. It's the one with the multimeter in it. Figures.
 
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All LCD TV's I've messed with has a signal strength function somewhere, maybe in Settings, Help or Diag depending on the brand. It's money from home when you're trying to peak up a directional antenna like a batwing. Google your TV model and you'll find it.

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I redid my batwing last year. It started getting intermittent, had to crank it up and down to find a good spot. Turned out to be the connection at the antenna. After some number of years the goop around the connector was shot and water got in there. DC current and water don't mix well and there was a bit of corrosion in the F connector. A couple decades in the sun didn't do the cable any favors either so I replaced the section from inside the roof through the antenna arm to the antenna and it's been solid since.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Sometimes the simple answer is to go up on the roof. (Well DUH!). The cable was ripped out of the connector by a low hanging branch. No idea when or where this happened. The connector is in my pocket, if I go by a hardware store I'll pick up a new one.
 

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Ah, a high impedance connection. My coax was so sun baked it crunched when bent so I used the opportunity to replace it. I don't observe any evidence of goop on that antenna connector. It might have originally had a rubber boot but they crumble off eventually. I don't think this is a weatherproof connector so once you connect it up and test it, goop it with some flavor of sealant.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Mark_K5LXP said:
First pass test would be to bypass the box, connecting the antenna or cable input directly to a TV using an F connector adapter. Right at where the box is, so you're also verifying the cabling. Use the signal strength meter in the TV diagnostic menu so you can see signal amplitudes rather than just go/no-go picture there or not.
Click to expand...


That will; work for Cable in but not for a the OAT antenna. at least not without help.
Now. if you have the original BOMB (Matrix switch) one of the buttons is marked POWER.. That is not power to the switch. it's power to the ANTENNA's mast head pre-amp. If you bypass the pre-amp is not powered.

Now.. you can put another Power inserter in the line (There is one specifically designed to be used that way) and then the power button does basically nothing (The one is the Winegard Sensar pro) That's how my rig went to the bone yard Worked well.
 
It's currently held together with duct tape, but it works.

The cable has been baking in the sun for 18 years. When I tried to push on a new connector the cable just crumbled. Looks like a new cable is called for.

Does anybody sell a pre assembled cable with rubber boots specifically for Winegard antennas? How about just the rubber boots?

I wish there were still electronic parts stores where I could browse down a row of bins to find what I want.
 
8Muddypaws said:
It's currently held together with duct tape, but it works.

The cable has been baking in the sun for 18 years. When I tried to push on a new connector the cable just crumbled. Looks like a new cable is called for.

Does anybody sell a pre assembled cable with rubber boots specifically for Winegard antennas? How about just the rubber boots?

I wish there were still electronic parts stores where I could browse down a row of bins to find what I want.
Click to expand...
There are still ~500 independent Radio Shacks left, and a bunch in CA.
 
When I remodeled my house I bought a spool of RG-6, bulk connectors and a crimp tool so I just make my own cables. You can probably buy the boots online but I just used a copious quantity of RTV. When I dug through the sealant at the antenna base I pulled on the cable to get to a fresh segment to cut and terminate and that's where I discovered a bullet adapter where the antenna cable connected to the cable that runs through the roof. Score. Screwed my new cable on, stuffed the connection back into the roof, regoop and done.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
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