Mold= rotted floor

[Camper Livin]

Hi.

I'm new to camper living and thought everything was going well until I saw mold and a wet, rotting floor.

The situation:
I discovered it a week ago when I looked under the bed and the vinyl "tile" layer of floor was all curling up in one corner and I lifted it and found wet and moldy and rotting floor.
So, I think a leak in the corner of my camper- where 2 walls meet- has led to water dripping into the flooring under the bed. So I re-caulked the outside of the camper at that corner.
The crossbeams under the plywood are wet but not rotted, but the fuzzy fiberglass insulation between them is sopping wet, and the plywood floor above it is definately wet and rotted in at least the corner area- I already just ripped part of it out with my bare hands and no effort.

My friend thought I should ask for advice before I advance on with my plan for fixing this...

My idea:
Cut out the tile layer and saw out the wood floor (without cutting the cross beams). Then I can really get the wet insulation out, sop up the puddles of standing water, and dry the wet beams with hair dryer, space heater, and de-humidifier. Then I put in new insulation (I've got extra astro-foil lying around) and put in a new plywood floor board and astro-foil layer over top.

Is there anything I'm missing? Is this a solid plan or have you done or would you do something different in my situation?

thanks for any input!
rachel

 

[Weewun]

Two things:

1.  If there is that much water coming from the wall seams that you have caulked it would seem that the walls would show evidence of water damage.  For the insulation to be that wet is suspect.  Not knowing your coach type and where the water lines run I would look a bit further before replacing the floor.  That corner may be the low point (water collecting there rather than originating there).

2.  After drying your crossbeams, spray them yhoroughly with 'bleach' to kill any mold present.

 

[oldcurios]

Our fresh water tank is located beneath the bed.  A leak like that would definitely have me worried about the tank and water lines/ hoses.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The repair plan is solid, but don't put the new floor down until you are absolutely sure you have fixed the leak.

 

[Karl]

Rachel,
Are you talking about water from rain or some other source? If rain, start at the top and check for loose/cracked/missing caulking and work your way down. Look all over, not just at that corner. Water leaks have a sneaky way of starting in one place and showing up somewhere else entirely. Remove any old stuff that's damaged before applying new caulk. If it's from your water system, you must find the leak before doing any repairing. It's best to replace plywood where you can and try to save the supporting beams if they're not too badly damaged. I would not recommend using a hair dryer or other heating device because you may end up drying only the outside and sealing in the deeper moisture, and it will come back to haunt you. Plenty of fresh, dry air circulation is your best approach. It's something you can't rush.
Good luck!  

 

[Camper Livin]

Thanks! You all have been very helpful!

Note: I did see signs of water damage up and down the walls in that corner, but it was much worse at the bottom. So that's why I suspect the leak is from the walls rather than the plumbing.

Thanks, Rachel

 

[Karl]

Rachel,

but it was much worse at the bottom.

To be blunt: Gravity sucks! ;D
Even though water can wick its' way up walls, chances are much better that it ran down them and pooled at a lower point.

 

[Shayne]

All the advise above is well worth noting, but I'd like to add thatAlso check the Roof. Water leaks come from the strangest places, sometimes nowhere near their final resting place.  Even check the windows.  We've rebuilt a few with friends and be prepared for anything.  JMHO

 

[172ndLIB]

You can pretty much expect to find damage in the corners as well.  but be sure to check the outer most boards under the floor as these are the most likely to rot from water traveling down the sides.  They are also where the trailer is bolted to the frame so are the most important.  If your trailer is metal sided its easy to check if it has filon siding, not so easy.
There is a hard way to replace the floor and a harder way.  Of course the harder way is the best way but you have to jack the trailer at least partially off the frame.  I did this on a Thor product a few years back.  The water tank under the bed leaked and there was mold and mildew on both the floor and the structure underneath.  It was a $3800.00 job to repair by the time I was done.