Motorhome height

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It's too important to guess. Get a long straight edge with a level on top, place one end of the straight edge on the highest point, get the level bubble between the lines and then measure from the other end of your straight edge to the ground. We just used a weighted string and marked the length to ground with a clip and then measured the string. Actual was almost 3 inches more than the manual. Make sure the suspension is all the way pumped up unless you can remember to dump the air every time you move it in and out of storage if there is low clearance. We went to look at an RV once and the owner damaged it backing it out of a shed because he forgot to dump the air.
 
The specs on my new motorhome external height is 12' 5". I assume that does not include the stuff on the roof (or does it?). A/C units and whatever.

So without climbing up there to take a measurement, what will my safe clearance be?

-Don- Reno, NV

To figure the height of an object, without climbing up that object:

Calculating object height requires the use of basic trigonometry: h = Tan A x d, where h is the object height, d is the distance from object, and A is the angle to the top of the object.
 
As if that angle would be easy to measure. Or is there a trick for that too?

-Don- Auburn, CA
Measure the shadow, assuming the sun is low enough to let the highest point cast a shadow onto the ground. Use a protractor to measure the sun's angle. Be sure you're on level ground and using the horizontal distance to the highest point, not just to the wall of the motorhome.
 
Since there is about 10"-12" difference to the a/c unit top, it's simple to do a sanity check. Just park on more-or-less level ground and drop a tape measure from the roof edge. If it's in the 11'5" ballpark, then you can feel comfortable that the 12'5" includes the a/c.
That's all I did and since my roof is slightly domed, making the center an inch or 2 higher than the outboard edges, I added 18" just to be safe.
 
That's all I did and since my roof is slightly domed, making the center an inch or 2 higher than the outboard edges, I added 18" just to be safe.
That's what SmartWeigh does when they measure an RV's height at one of their weigh ins. They report the measured height then suggest the owner add 6" to be on the safe side.
 
Well, for sure don't try to drive under the infamous "Can opener" train overpass in Durham, NC.


Edit: Never mind, they raised it to from 11'8" to 12'4"...It should be "just fine" now...
I love the caption on this site: "If you liked 11'8", you'll love 10'6" bridge" LOL

 
Another way to avoid crawling up top - standing on a step ladder on the side of the rig, I slid a 6' level on the top of the A/C and measured down. Could do the same thing with a 2x4, long broom handle, etc. and smaller level.
 
I've done a popsted tunnel clearance that was 4" over my measured high point. It was a bit unsettling, but no problems.
 
How about construction zones with the concrete barriers and advetised "narrow" lane widths.
Those can be quite unnerving. I usually use the mirror checking technique and the centre windshield divider as a marker to keep the far, passenger side curb line or edge as close as possible to that middle point, from my vantage point.

My rule of thumb is : if transport trucks, semis and dump trucks are allowed, then "George" should technically fit OK.
 
How about construction zones with the concrete barriers and advetised "narrow" lane widths.
Love it when a semi passes you even though you're all supposed to stay in one of the two lanes (according to the posted signs) in a construction zone. Sure buddy! There's plenty of room. Why not have a wide load sign on your rig for good measure!
 
I'm 12' 6" - this is the closest I've come. No warning sign - only the marking on the bridge itself. I was following a friend who took a "shortcut", LOL. He's 12' 4" and had a good amount of air over him so I was comfortable going through. When we got to the campground I said something like "good thing that bridge was not any lower". He replied "what bridge?" He never even noticed it! He bought a new rig later that year and now stands 12' 10" and remembered what I had said - he took a different route the next time!
 

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If your RV is exactly 12'5" tall, do you still go in the tunnel that is 12' 6" ?
Not without a spotter! Even if that means nosing in a bit and stopping to get out and look yourself. Being off by an inch causes far too much damage to take chances. Remember, 1" is 12.5 ft is only a 0.67% error.

But this is where knowing what the measurement means gets important. A tunnel ceiling is often curved, so the 12'5" is at the sides, not the center. And highway underpasses may well be slanted. If encountering one that is too close for comfort, stop and ponder a bit before making a decision.

I'm comfortable with a 6" margin, but I've done a 12'6" underpass with a 12'9" coach. The overhead was very obviously slanted and traffic light, so I was able to take the high side. Very cautiously, of course.
 
I'm comfortable with a 6" margin, but I've done a 12'6" underpass with a 12'9" coach.
I would have chickened-out on that and hope I can find a way to go around.

I wonder how often people stopped in time before the tunnel and had no way to back out because of traffic. I assume that could even be a good reason for 9-1-1 call.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
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