My new RV is a . . . .

[DonTom]

You could use your phone cam and video the presentation. That’s what we did.

I just read a little of every manual that came with my RV. Many of them. Most of the info. is rather useless, IMO, as they try to cover way too many models and I have to guess (at least for now) what part does and does not apply to mine.

And the stuff I want to know the most isn't even mentioned.

I hope the presentation is a lot better than the manuals.

I will have a list of questions for them.

IMO, they should also have those presentations on-line, along with comments below from owners.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

Good luck with the delivery tomorrow Don. It'll be a great home for you.

At least this one will have wheels to run away from HOAs. A long story, but my decision to sell my house in Cold Springs Valley was made within ten seconds after I received a message from the HOA.

But three houses is too many for one person anyway. And I never wanted to get involved with renting any out.

But if I count the RVs, I still own four houses, just one more of them are on wheels.

But now I have seven motorcycles in this garage with a bunch of other junk from that house. I used to keep three bikes at each house, with the other one at any of the houses--often used to get between them.

Unfortunately, motorhomes don't come with garages.

BTW, there is a well known formula among motorcyclists WRT how many motorcycles we should own. The formula is "N +1", where "N" represents the number currently owned.

So I am one short, I should own 11.


-Don- Reno, NV

 

[phil-t]

Well, we made it through the purchase of our 2015 Tiffin Allegro 36LA, yesterday. 11AM to 3PM on the PDI (walk-through), the tech was not a great presenter! Having a few years of experience, we generated a lot of questions, he had good answers (maybe just his methodology of the presentation).
3 to 7 PM was in the parking lot, loading up the RV from our tow and thoroughly testing and checking systems. Thenlast night plugged in at the salesman's country farm for an overnight test of the systems.
We really like the Tiffin and will be headed home with it later this AM.
The deal was, if found anything, anything, that was wrong or we did not like, they would resolve it today, at the dealer.
We need to get some kind of DC and AC energy monitors.
The Winnebago we sold had an energy management system and we will miss that.

 

[DonTom]

I am now on my maiden voyage with my new RV. After a few trips to Wal*Mart, I have everything needed. I also got a thousand dollars parts credit at the place I purchased this RV, and I managed to spend just over $1,200.00 there so I then owed them a couple of hundred more. But I now have everything needed in this RV except a pair of scissors to cut the straps on a couple boxes so they could be opened. But a friendly RV camper next to me helped me out on that.

I am here. The Cold Springs Station RV Park on Hwy 50. I am all set up, so I managed to figure out everything necessary. I am going to stay here a couple of nights and do a little hiking out in the desert and other such stuff tomorrow. On the way home, I will boondock at a rest stop overnight on I-80, to test out more of the boondocking stuff, such as the inverter.

I have the slides out and this little RV sure seems roomy for just one person.

It drives nicely, the display shows which gear I am in. 2,500 RPMS is 73 MPH in 6th gear when the road is level. I can maintain that speed up hill, as it drops into 5th gear. If a steep hill I can still stay at that same 73 MPH, but in 4th gear and a lot more RPMs, as expected. But it has plenty of power for a rig this size.

I am very happy with this rig. I think the reason the price varies for this rig is because the options can vary. For an example, I have the tankless water heater that many of this same model does not have, so I assume that costs a bit more.

If I have any complaints about the motorhome, it's a rather small issue that I can take care of. There are NO (and I mean Zero) 12 volt outlets in this RV. Not even in the driving area. So how do they expect anybody to run a Garmin RV GPS?

But there are 120 VAC outlets everywhere even several in the driving area. Who would use those for what? IIRC, the Garmin RV GPS doesn't even come with an AC adapter besides .the fact either the genny or the inverter would have to be running.

They have USB outlets everywhere in this RV. IMO, that is stupid. They should ALL be 12V outlets with a removable USB adapter than we have a choice of which to use.

But if that is all I can find to complain about, that means I really love this rig.

-Don- Cold Springs Station RV Park, US 50.

 

[phil-t]

Interesting on the 12v outlets. Do those USB ports have 12v or 120v behind them? If 12, it would not be too dificult to convert them to a different format plug.

 

[DonTom]

Interesting on the 12v outlets. Do those USB ports have 12v or 120v behind them? If 12, it would not be too dificult to convert them to a different format plug.

I assume they do have 12 volts behind the USB. But I have plans to add in a second 12 volt system with a lith battery and lith converter and high power inverter and such and then I will wire in several 12 volt outlets and it will all have no effect on the stock stuff. There are places to hide it all in this motorhome.

The new stuff will be used to run the MW oven and other such stuff that draws high current as well as my ham radio and etc. That way, in places where I cannot run the generator, I can still get all the power I want with no effect on the stock 12V system.

-Don- Cold Springs Station, NV

 

[DonTom]

Here are a few things I found wrong with my new motorhome.

1. Cannot fill up or check one tire psi as if the extender line on the valve is somehow blocked. Right side rear inner tire. At first, I thought I had a totally flat inner tire as I got a zero psi reading. But an air compressor acts like the air cannot go in. I see no evidence of a tire issue, just of a blocked valve issue. The opposite (left) side is the exact same setup and no problems on that side, 100 PSI there on same gauge.

2. Mud flap on (same) right side rear missing and caused cable (should be behind missing mud flap?) for right side marker light to get destroyed. Bare wires, insulation rubbed off the wires as the loose cable rubbed off and on the rear two tires. I found a way to hold it down with a tie for now and space out the wires so they won't short out. But this cable is now destroyed by the rubbing against the tires, and needs to be replaced(makes me wonder about that destroyed levelling jack harness they discovered).

3. Lock on black/ gray tank drain door, but no lock on house battery door where all the expensive stuff is located. I guess they are afraid somebody wants to still my s---- literally.

(I assume the one without the lock was put on the wrong door).

4. None of my keys will lock one of the other outside doors. I think they installed the wrong lock for my keys. That door is stuck unlocked, so I can still use it.

5. Window washer did not work. But that was an easy fix, bone dry reservoir. I doubt if it ever had anything in it. the reservoir is well hidden, easy to miss under the hood.

I will bring this RV back to them ASAP and let them fix a few things. My biggest concern is the tire that I cannot check the psi.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

Do those USB ports have 12v or 120v behind them?

This can be a solution for now by running the inverter. AC outlets even up by the front seats.

BTW, the inverter doesn't go to two outlets. The MW oven and the kitchen. Those are generator only. New RV only has a 1,200 watt (but pure sine) inverter.

My added DC system will be over-kill, a 5KW inverter (10KW peak) which I can use to run the MW oven from my added lith battery which will have a lith converter and portable solar. Will be independent from the RV's DC system. Won't charge at all from driving will be the big difference, but it should stay well enough charged as is for the little use it will get for the AH rating. I will leave home and RV parks with a full charge., which should be more than enough. The genny will charge it via the converter too, of course.

But my 5KW inverter is a modified square(why lie?)wave inverter. I already have all the stuff except for the battery. I have all the stuff at my Auburn house, after a trip to there I will install it all in the new RV, plenty of places to hide it all, except I am not sure where to run the wires for the DC outlets it will soon have up front. No place to hide them that I can see.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Chet18013]

Don,

Is this how you are going to load your electric bike?

Come see us again in Benson.

 

[DonTom]

Is this how you are going to load your electric bike?

I have never seen that method B4! And what bike looks heavy, over the tongue weigh capacity, I would think. Perhaps also over the cycle ramp capacity.

Electric motorcycles are very easy to get up the cycle ramp. There is no clutch and very slow throttle response in the Eco mode. I use the power of the bike to get up the ramp. Very easy for one person.

I see you have a new Tesla. What model? I bought a new M3, AWD, LR in 2018. I also own a 2022 Chevy Bolt, perhaps I was the last person to buy one in the USA before the big recall was announced just hours later. So I own 5 EVs total, including the motorcycles. I plan on riding my Energica motorcycle to Auburn, later today. Free CCS fast charge at the summit rest area. I love to see those high gas prices on the way.

But I may feel a bit different about that when I am RVing across the country in five weeks or so.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Chet18013]

Our Tesla is a model Y. Absolutely love it. First new car I have ever bough that didn't have to go back to the dealer for some repair.

 

[DonTom]

Our Tesla is a model Y. Absolutely love it. First new car I have ever bough that didn't have to go back to the dealer for some repair.

I should have realized that "MY" stood for "Model Y". No issues with my M3, except for it now has a cracked windscreen. Big "L" shaped crack down the middle and to the tight. Not in my way of view, but I will have to get that fixed soon.

That will cost around $1,250. I wonder what such a crack in my new Class A would cost . . . .
Very nice ride here today on my Enegica electric motorcycle.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[DonTom]

I think I like this color better than mine.

Not that it matters much. I can't see it outside while driving it anyway.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

I kinda like your idea of separate battery systems.

I have it all installed and working. I just have to do a few finishing touches. I have it all installed under one of the bench seats in the slide-out kitchen. It's just a 50 amp Lith converter to a 300AH Lith battery to a 4KW pure sinewave inverter. It all fits in there with room left over. I can help keep it charged up with my portable solar. It also charges with shore power or genny, of course. It will not charge by driving, which isn't much of an issue. One full charge will probably last me an entire trip and then some anyway, as it is overkill for my needs for ham radio and and and occasional use with the MW oven. I should never have to run my genny for a short time, which I hear isn't good for it.

I can turn off and on the inverter remotely.

I used the lith battery from my old RV just to be sure it fits. It was close, but a perfect fit. I ordered a new lith battery for my old RV which I already received and installed. Same type.

The difference is the old RV uses the lith as the main house battery. The new RV it is an addition, the stock stuff is not changed. So it's really overkill.

There is hidden room all over this RV for such stuff. I can add in as much stuff under the other kitchen bench seat. But I wonder how much weight I can add before it effects the operation of the slide-out. I assume the weight battery (69 lbs) plus the other stuff is still under 100 lbs and should be negligible.

73, -Don- AA6GA/7 Reno, NV

 

[Old_Crow]

There is hidden room all over this RV for such stuff. I can add in as much stuff under the other kitchen bench seat. But I wonder how much weight I can add before it effects the operation of the slide-out. I assume the weight battery (69 lbs) plus the other stuff is still under 100 lbs and should be negligible.

73, -Don- AA6GA/7 Reno, NV

Take this for what it's worth. The driver's side basement storage compartments on my coach are attached to the slide and travel in and out with it. When I first got the coach I asked about how much weight I could carry in the slide compartments. Someone told me that the mechanic for his race team carries a couple of SBC short blocks in his slide compartments.
I carry a Coleman Roadtrip grille, a couple of bag chairs, a screen tent that goes over a picnic table, RV cleaning supplies, my tailgater antenna, a couple of hoses and other misc. BS. Pretty sure I'm carrying more weight in my slide than 100 lbs, and it still works fine. It's got the Power Gear electric motor system, not the hydraulic or cable type drive system.

 

[DonTom]

It's got the Power Gear electric motor system,

I think that is what mine is. I think one of the manuals in my RV is Power Gear for the slide-outs.

Thanks for the message, makes me feel like all will be okay as is.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Ray-IN]

You may plug your Garmin directly into those USB ports with the Garmin USB cable that plugs into your computer.
I installed a few 12V cigar lighter receptacles in our MH, now I wish I had also installed a few USB ports, but I bought adapters to go from cigar lighter to USB ports for $1 ea. instead.

 

[DonTom]

You may plug your Garmin directly into those USB ports with the Garmin USB cable that plugs into your computer.
I installed a few 12V cigar lighter receptacles in our MH, now I wish I had also installed a few USB ports, but I bought adapters to go from cigar lighter to USB ports for $1 ea. instead.

Some Garmins will switch to the data mode when a USB cable is used, as if you want to update maps and such. I am not sure if a charge-only USB cable will solve that issue on all of them. I think some of the Garmin cables require a resistor or something. I know they are not all the same, so the results vary by model of GPS.

IMO, the 12V ports are the best way, as then you have your choice is you want USB by plugging in a one dollar adapter (often available at the one dollar stores).

BTW, for very low currents, .7 amp, you can do the opposite.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

I completed my 2nd DC/AC system in my new RV today.

What I think is a little ridiculous is the installed MW oven draws 13 amps/ 1560 watts. The stock inverter is 1200W. If they went up just one size, then they could use the stock inverter with the MW oven.

Today, I ran the genny and checked a few things. The genny will power ALL AC outlets. I also checked to see if the stock converter charges my engine starting battery. It does.

The stock inverter will give NO power to the kitchen outlets, but it will to all the other stock AC outlets in the RV.

In my added 4KW pure sinewave inverter manual, it says the waveshape shown on the display of the unit is live. So it's a built in scope (bottom photo).

I managed to get the entire thing installed without drilling a single large hole anywhere. I discovered an easy path from under the kitchen bench seats to the top drawer in the kitchen where I ran all the cables to. There, I can plug in my converter & get my high power DC and AC.

About the photos of what I completed today:

Top photo shows inverter on. Bottom photo shows clearer with inverter turned off. In this bottom photo, the top cable is a 175 AMP Anderson for my 13V DC stuff, such as my HF ham radio gear. The red AC cord below goes to the converter input. It reaches easily to the kitchen AC outlets. The small box below the AC cord is the remote to turn the inverter on, which will activate the power strip for as much as the CB can handle (~2,300 watts) which is a lot less than the inverter can do, but is all I will ever need. I can run the MW oven or make coffee without running the genny. I have no need to do both at once!

In the 2nd and third photos, I have the 300 AH Lith battery positive going to the 175 amp CB to the red power strip which feeds my DC output cable, also has Inverter input and converter output. I only want to have a single cable on each of the battery terminals, as shown.

The negative battery cable goes to a SmartShunt to a black power strip for the negative connections. It's only tie-wrapped to the negative battery cable, not mounted otherwise, but it won't go anywhere.

In 2nd photo, converter is mounted under the SmartShunt. Hard to notice with all the wiring in the way. Inverter is on the bottom of the photo, about the same length as the battery.

Here are the photos:

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Klege]

I guess we can call ourselves lucky to live in Florida. We only paid 140k for our 2022 Entegra Vision XL 36A. We opted out of everything they offered us. Except for the free Thousand Trails membership.
The rig is well equipped. The only thing wrong was a warped entrance door that wants to come open on its own all the time. A new one is on order. And I had to tighten a few plex screw connections that started leaking.
Entegra customer service was great with answering a few questions I had and emailing me a detailed manual for the Vegatouch system. I even got the phone number for someone at GoPower to answer anything I might come up with about the solar system.
We are pretty happy with our purchase and already put 3000 miles on the RV in the 2 months we own it.
I am more looking into replacing and upgrading the existing solar/inverter setup.

Safe travels!