Need help with electrical issue in 2000 Keystone 280RK

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DRShingler

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Joined
Jan 20, 2019
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6
My folks just gave me a RV. Its been barn kept it's whole life and is in great shape but something is wrong with the electrical.

All of the 110V works when it's plugged in but none of the low voltage works. My dad said that he thinks the power converter went bad a couple years ago he just never bothered to replace it. He didn't use the RV anymore so he just stick a window unit AC in it a didn't worry about it. The RV will not charge the 12V batter either.

If it is the power converter how can I test it?

Should I replace the converter with the same model and series converter or are there more options?

I don't plan on pulling this RV anywhere, I don't even own a truck with a fifth wheel hitch. Its parked beside my house and if I can get the electrical issue fixed I'm going to let my teenage son live in it so that he's out of our house and feels like he has his own space.
 
Easy to test.  Remove the battery cables and place a volt meter across the plus and neg cables.  Plug in to 120VAC and read the voltage.  You should see around 12.64VDC.  If not you have a bad converter or possibly simply a blown main fuse.  BTW with a good battery you should still get lights to work.
 
Give us the brand and model of the converter.

Have you check to see if there is a 110 Volt AC circuit breaker which has tripped?  Turn it off then back on if there is one.

While plugged into shore power, disconnect the battery cable off the negative post on the battery. Then using a volt meter, check the voltage at the 2 battery cables.  You should read around 13.5 volts.

How old is the battery? 
 
We bought a new battery and had it tested after the problem continued, the battery is good.

If it is a main AC fuse where might I find that? Is it one of the breakers on the power converter?

The power converter is a MagneTek series 6300 A model 6345
 
Have you check for 12 volt main fuses in the panel box. They may be 30 or 50 amp fuses. Also check around the battery for a fuse(s) that may also be blown.
 
DRShingler said:
If it is a main AC fuse where might I find that? Is it one of the breakers on the power converter?
Click to expand...

The main entrance panel may have a breaker dedicated to the converter.

There may be a couple of fuses on the end of the converter. They are there to protect the converter if someone connects the batery cable incorrectly.
 
Here is a brief RV electrical primer.

120VAC runs high power stuff like roof A/C, microwave, 120V outlets AND THE CONVERTER.

12VDC powers most lights, slide outs, landing gear and is REQUIRED for the control circuits for A/C, fridge, water heater, and is the sole electric source for the furnace.

The converter is usually powered from a dedicated breaker in the power center.  It is often located as part of the power center or directly behind the power center.  It also has fuses on the converter to protect from being wired wrong.

Please tell us the make / model of the old converter.  Newer, better ones may be available.

A fully charged battery  should read 12.6 volts.  If a FUNCTIONING converter is attached, it should read 13.5V

You can destroy the new battery if it is repeatedly discharged to less than 50% charge.  Short term, you can connect a car battery charger  to it and plug the charger into the camper to keep the battery up.

If the battery reads less than 13V with the converter on, check the converter fuses.  If good, replace the converter. 
I replaced mine a couple months ago,  and it is fairly straight forward, depending on location.
 
Check the 120 breakers for one labled "Converter". Check the two reversable polarity 12 volt fuses (30/40). Look near the battery for an inline 12 volt circuit breaker. Open the converter cover and check the 12 volt output. 
 
The converter charger is integrated on a Magnetek 6345, but I think the #1 breaker feeds it. If so, it should show on the label on the front of the 6345.

The 6345 is a mediocre design as well as being ancient technology, so i would replace it if the budget can be stretched for that. You can get a complete replacement for the 6345, or disconnect its internal converter/charger module and wire in a seprate deck-mount model. Here are some alternatives:

http://www.bestconverter.com/Upgrade-Kits-for-MagnetekParallax_c_64.html
 
Thanks a lot everyone.

I've checked everything suggested. No, it's not a breaker or a fuse. No, there is not any output at the battery terminal connections or on the 12V test points on the circuit board on the converter.

I'm guessing the converter is bad.

My dad told me today that he may have plugged the RV into a 220 power source at one point but can't remember, he forgets a lot these days.

I'm guessing that the converter is fried.

Gary, thanks for the info on converter replacement/upgrade ideas. They are all within my budget, which one would y'all recommend?
 
Contact these guys:

http://www.bestconverter.com

They will fix you up with just what you need at a reasonable price.
 
I believe this is your converter. It shows two 30 Amp reverse polarity fuses. Did you check them?

http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/RV%20Information/MagnaTek%20Pwr%20Converter/RV%20Binder1.pdf

 
FOr ther magnetek 6345 you go to best converter or if you like direct to Progressive Dynamics (I DID) and get the smallest 4600 series. Then you pull ther 6345 out and "Gut it" (Remove ther erlerctroncis from the rear) leaving only the fuse breaker panel. Replace the "Guts" with the 4600 and a jumper wire.

The 4600 is electroincally the same as the 9200 grashley put in (NO BETTER MADE) only it is designed to be a REPLACEMENT for the electronics part of a unit such as you have.

Best converter will have links to videos or other instrucions on doing the job yourself.

In my case the rig came with a 9180+charge wizard (Equal to 9280+dongle).. When it died (12.5 years) I went with ... Same exact thing.. Same wizard in fact (It plugs in).  None better.
 
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