New Pop Up Camper Refurb and 12V Power Issue

[OldBlue61]

Greetings! Husband and wife w/ a newly purchased used PUC. Still finishing the refurb, hoping to get it on the road in the next few weeks. Electrical system was shot and still working on that, along w/ one soft spot in the floor. Wifey's working on sprucing the interior a bit.

Purchased it with the idea that if we like it, we may update to a TT in a year or two. We both camped when we were younger, the wife in a PUC, me in tents, but that's been a couple of years ago .

 

[Jackiemac]

Welcome. Please ask anything you need to. Good luck with getting it back on the road! Where are you planning to go on your first trip?

 

[DutchmenSport]

Welcome to the forums and congrats on getting your new camper. What truck are you planning on carrying the TC with? (Just curious).

RV Life has many different forums in addition to this one. All of them are set up the same, but each one carries a different "theme". There is one other forum you might find interesting. It's call: Wander The West (click here).

Here's what it's all about, copied form the RV Life "Community" page:

Wander the West is where backcountry explorers share epic trip reports, photos, and tips — from truck campers and DIY rigs to off-grid camping and Leave No Trace travel across the wild American West.

However, continue using this site too. It's packed full of knowledgeable people who are thrilled to answer any question you may have, or help solve any problem you may encounter.

Enjoy your new camper! The excitement has already started!

 

[OldBlue61]

Thanks! Once we get it together, we're just going to go somewhere within an hour or 2 of home. I know we'll forget some stuff, so we don't want to go to far for the first outing. It'll be more of a 2-3 day shakedown run for our first trip.

Right now I'm trying to figure out an issue w/ the converter - when running on shorepower, the 12v lights work, but when disconnecting or throwing the breaker, the battery does not power them. I have 12v (really 13.4) from the battery at the converter, but the converter isn't switching to the battery (or at least that the symproms I'm seeing). I've got a bit more troubleshooting to do once I get home and a path of things to check, so we'll see. I'm pretty good w/ electrical systmes in general, but this is my first time messing w/ a converter.

 

[DonTom]

Right now I'm trying to figure out an issue w/ the converter - when running on shorepower, the 12v lights work, but when disconnecting or throwing the breaker, the battery does not power them.

That could be because your main power switch is off. It's usually close to the entry door and should always be on except for long term storage.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[OldBlue61]

Unfortunately it's more than that. The old converter was shot (it was 26 years old...) so I picked up a WFCO WF-8735-AD. As it turns out this one is also shot. According to what I've been able to determine by my testing, the distribution fuse board has an internal failure. I have 13.4 volts from the battery to the WFCO converter, but it's not allowing the battery to run the lights when disconnected from shore power.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good replacement converter (hopefully with a link)? Not sure I want to gamble on another WFCO product.

 

[SMR]

Welcome to the forum

 

[DonTom]

Unfortunately it's more than that. The old converter was shot (it was 26 years old...) so I picked up a WFCO WF-8735-AD. As it turns out this one is also shot.

Right now I'm trying to figure out an issue w/ the converter - when running on shorepower, the 12v lights work,

That is a good indication that your new converter is working fine.

I have 13.4 volts from the battery to the WFCO converter, but it's not allowing the battery to run the lights when disconnected from shore power.

Are you measuring that 13.4VDC on the converter with or without shore power?

Measure it each way and then post here what voltages you have.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[CharlesinGA]

While I like abbreviations, sometimes they even confuse me. Can I assume that PUC is PickUp Camper? aka slide in camper or simply truck camper?

If not, what are we talking about, since you suggest switching to a trailer later one.

WFCO is junk, plain an simple. Almost any other brand is good. I prefer Progressive Dynamics. 4600 series is best. It will come in a metal can designed for installation in a Parallax panel however the instructions tell you to remove it from the can and discard the steel can if you are installing it in a WFCO power panel. It will come with a new 12 v DC fuse panel also. I have installed two of these, and swear by them.

Charles

 

[DonTom]

WFCO is junk, plain an simple.

The older ones are pure junk.

But the WFCO WF-8735-AD was designed just a few years ago and does modern stuff, such as automatic lithium and lead-acid battery charging and such. I think they could now be well up to date and not be nearly as junky as in the past.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[OldBlue61]

While I like abbreviations, sometimes they even confuse me. Can I assume that PUC is PickUp Camper? aka slide in camper or simply truck camper?

If not, what are we talking about, since you suggest switching to a trailer later one.

WFCO is junk, plain an simple. Almost any other brand is good. I prefer Progressive Dynamics. 4600 series is best. It will come in a metal can designed for installation in a Parallax panel however the instructions tell you to remove it from the can and discard the steel can if you are installing it in a WFCO power panel. It will come with a new 12 v DC fuse panel also. I have installed two of these, and swear by them.

Charles

Sorry, I was on another forum that used more abbrevations. Pop Up Camper. And I agree - the more research I do, the more it seems that people have more issues w/ WFCO converters than most other makes. I will look into Progressive Dynamics. I have heard of them before, so I'll see what I can find.

Are you measuring that 13.4VDC on the converter with or without shore power?

Measure it each way and then post here what voltages you have.

13.4v w/o shore power, so I have power from the battery at the converter. When I unhook shore power or switch off the main breaker is when I lose the 12v input for those circuits.

I found a testing procedure that I followed (I'm at work now, and can't find it at the moment) that pointed to a blown component or connection on one of the boards.

 

[TheBar]

When I unhook shore power or switch off the main breaker is when I lose the 12v input for those circuits.

When I switch off the main breaker I lose all power. Why switch it off?

 

[OldBlue61]

Electrically, the same as unhooking shore power. So I can run on 12v. That's the whole problem. I can't.

 

[OldWEB]

It sounds like the converter has blown Reverse Battery Fuse(s) and wired incorrectly, the battery lead and converter output lead together.
Picture of converter wiring please.
I thought if the Reverse Battery fuse is gone, the lights would stay on w/o a.c. power.

 

[OldBlue61]

Thank you all for your replies. I really do appreciate the help.

I have already disconnected the wiring in preparation for installing the new converter. I have a PD4135KW being delivered tomorrow. I will say that I did check both of the reverse poilarity fuses, and they were both good, with 13.4 volts at each and continuity when pulled from the board. I also had 13.4 volts at each fuse terminal when I checked.

If I have a problem with the replacement I'll be sure to take more pics BEFORE I disassemble it.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The facts stated here don't make any sense. If you have voltage to the bus bar & fuses, that's the same path as with the converter making its own 12v from shore power and the 12v circuits should be powered either way. There must be something on the output side of the converter wiring that is interfering, perhaps a relay that is closed when using shore power but open when on battery only. Something that you inadvertently changed when wiring in the new converter. Reversed battery polarity would be the most likely diagnosis, but you seem to have ruled that out. Have you verified that the battery ground is solid? Measure the voltage from the 12v bus bar/fuse to actual chassis ground to make sure the voltage is real (usable).

 

[TheBar]

Electrically, the same as unhooking shore power. So I can run on 12v. That's the whole problem. I can't.

My main breaker kills all power, both the 120v and 12v. In case of an electrical fire I'm glad it does.

When I unplug from shore power I don't switch off any breakers. It handles it automagically.

 

[OldBlue61]

The facts stated here don't make any sense. If you have voltage to the bus bar & fuses, that's the same path as with the converter making its own 12v from shore power and the 12v circuits should be powered either way. There must be something on the output side of the converter wiring that is interfering, perhaps a relay that is closed when using shore power but open when on battery only. Something that you inadvertently changed when wiring in the new converter. Reversed battery polarity would be the most likely diagnosis, but you seem to have ruled that out. Have you verified that the battery ground is solid? Measure the voltage from the 12v bus bar/fuse to actual chassis ground to make sure the voltage is real (usable).

Thank you. I will do that later today once I get home and post my results.

When I unplug from shore power I don't switch off any breakers. It handles it automagically.

That's what started this whole issue - when I would unplug the shore power the lights would not come on. And the 12v cirtuit to the fridge (which I have removed since it's inoperable) was still dead.

The only thing I unhooked so far from the converter is the 12v wiring. I'll hook it back up the way I had it and take some measurements and pictures later today when I get home. Thank you all for your input.

 

[OldBlue61]

A sincere thanks to all for your input. After thinking about what you all were posting, I went back and checked, and sure enough there were some 12v grounds that were not hooked up properly. After hooking everything back up and correctly connecting the missing grounds, the system automagically (thank you for that term @TheBar !) works correctly, going from 120v to 12v and back. Sorry for jumping the gun when I should have just done a bit more tracing of the wires. There were actually a few of the ground wires that were cut short and stuffed under the water tank. Why? No idea, but those are what I was missing.

The PO of our camper had a lot of stories - "we never used the fridge so I don't know if it works or not", to "we never used the sink so I don't know if the pump works or not", etc etc. The only thing that actually worked in it was the rooftop A/C unit.

I've pulled out the fridge and I'm going to look for something that works on 12v/120v. I don't need the propane for our use, so I'll fill in the massive hole left from removing it, and I'm thinking of just getting a portable dual-voltage fridge to use instead.

After I fill in the gaping hole, then I need to work on the water system - pressurized water works fine, but the 12v pump does not. Not sure it it's missing wires, or if the pump is shot. Not sure where to find it, so I gotta do some investigating there and track it down.