New to auto-leveling - any best practices you can share?

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Joezeppy

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Dragged home a new 5th wheel last week (I'll post some pics when I get a chance)! It has a Lippert auto-leveling system. Got it pretty much figured out and I really like it so far...of course, we haven't left the driveway yet! Here's my main question: How unlevel can I be to start? Should I still be using boards under the tires if one side is, say, 6" low? This will be the exact scenario on Memorial Day weekend - we're returning to the same site we've had for years and there is a dip right where the sewer drain is and that's right where the tires sit. Should I use a couple of 2x8 leveling boards to get it "less unlevel" to start or just let the system do its thing? I didn't think to pose this question to the dealer - but they did tell me it has 18" of travel.

Thanks in advance for your wisdom. :cool:
 
I think it's a trial & error learning thing, plus the terrain on every site will differ. The results will vary with the placement of the jacks on the trailer frame, the leg extension "stroke" of the particular brand of jack, the tire size (alters the jack height), and even the terrain directly under the jack (changes the effective stroke length).

But to partially answer your question, I would be prepared to assist the jacks with some planks, either under the wheels or under one or more of the jacks. Sometimes the "auto" will give up before getting level but you can manually get good results. Other times you will need to help out.
 
Get your a 2X10 board 10 or 12 feet long. Measure the width and cut the boards square. Use the boards under all 6 jacks and the remaining ones under the low side of the trailer. I measure the height of the front of the 5r so I know where to set it to re-hitch. Unhook from the truck and get it clear of the RV. When you hit the SELF LEVEL the nose drops 10 or more inches before it starts level. (Note: the 2x10 will eventually break so I used 1/4" plywood cut to size and nail, used them for years so far) I stored them just inside of the tailgate.
 
Previous answers are true. Most leveling challenges are:
left vs right low/high;
and/or
front vs rear high/low.
If you level first by raising one side with blocks under wheels, you’ll need to put about same number of blocks under the jacks on same side.
A site with a mid-site, one-sided dip (like you described) is a next-level leveling challenge… I’m sure you’ll master it and be advising the rest of us in no time.
 
the biggest issue with auto leveling is just that, if the ground has too many variations - 1 jack will "stroke out" while another wont extend, i have had it on 2 units - the second 5er being 8 ft longer than the 1st and its sometimes harder to get the rig positioned so all 6 jacks can operate - carry lots of blocks and try to eliminate as much jack travel as possible. on relatively level ground it awesome just push a button. i use 2x6s cut to 12 inch lengths and screwed together at 90degree angles 4 of my blocks are 2 high 2 are 3 high its usually enough
 
Thanks for the replies - good info! Mine is just a 4-point system (rear jacks are just aft of the rear axle) but sure is nicer than cranking down those scissor jacks!

Just realized I have a pic of my low-side set up from this site from a couple of years ago. I don't normally carry the 6' 2x12's with me - I just take them for this site. I do have four nice jack blocks (two levels of 2x6's 90* to each other - might be able to see the one in this pic) and I'll have various other lumber and Lego-type blocks with me to put under the tires or jacks as needed.

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Mine has 6 point system and I recommend the "Buckets" -- I love them. Really makes it more stable. I don't bother with boards under tires anymore.
 
The number of leveling legs needed is largely a function of the length of the trailer. I would be prepared to use the planks, but try it without them first as a learning experience. Not all leveling systems are alike and the trailer that they are on plays a part so some of this is individual to the RV in question.
 
Keep in mind, the leveling jacks are not really made for lifting the weight of the trailer. They are only meant for assisting in pushing up a little on their end of the RV. I've seen people with their trailer tires completely off the ground on one side or the other because they were relying on the jacks to lift it into a level position. Using boards or those "buckets" under them so the jacks have to do as little "lifting" as possible is what you're aiming for.
 
Well, the first attempt here did indeed lift the tires off the ground! I manually lifted it some more and slid another 2x6 under the tires and then lowered it. Another lesson learned - don't use the x-chock until after leveling is done. It fell right out as the tires lifted.
 

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Well, the first attempt here did indeed lift the tires off the ground! I manually lifted it some more and slid another 2x6 under the tires and then lowered it. Another lesson learned - don't use the x-chock until after leveling is done. It fell right out as the tires lifted.
It will just take a few times of practicing on different terrain to automatically know just by looking at it how many inches of 2x6 or bucket you will need. After that, it's only a matter of minutes to get your rig leveled.
 
When you get it as level as you can using whichever of the tricks previously mentioned you need to tell the leveling system that 'that's' is the what you want every time it auto levels. Every brand has a different way of calibration but it will be in your manual.

I check the level with a carpenters level and my refrigerator and shower doors. If the doors stay where I put the it's level enough. Tried an app on my phone but it didn't work as well as the old school method.
 
When you get it as level as you can using whichever of the tricks previously mentioned you need to tell the leveling system that 'that's' is the what you want every time it auto levels. Every brand has a different way of calibration but it will be in your manual.

I check the level with a carpenters level and my refrigerator and shower doors. If the doors stay where I put the it's level enough. Tried an app on my phone but it didn't work as well as the old school method.
Wouldn't that only work if you have the same terrain under the individual stabilizers every time?
 
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Nope. It will return your RV to whatever you told it was level unless one or more of legs 'strokes out'. (There is a chip in the computer that senses inclination in all directions.)

If one or more of the jacks strokes out it's time to put boards or something under the jack(s).
 
I learned the hard way to do an initial level of my fifth wheel exactly the same way as I leveled all my previous travel trailers that had the scissors jacks. That means getting the trailer as level as possible with boards under the tires to get a left-right or side-to-side level first. It will never be exact, but it will be within that 3 percent tilt tolerance that will prevent errors.

Before unhitching, I also make sure both front jacks are as close as possible in distance to the ground or boards under them. In other works, I make sure both landing gears extend the same length. I also learned the hard way that if one jack touches (ground) before the other, it will support the entire weight of the camper front before the other touches the (ground). Then that one leg really, really struggles until the other one touches. In order to get around this, I make sure both now extend equal distance, especially when on a side-to-side sloped campsite (which is very often in Indiana State Parks).

Now with the side-to-side relatively level, I'll lower or raise the front to get it manually level. I still use a carpenter's level and lay it near the controls for the jacks. It's close enough to get an almost "level." I do this to ensure I have enough clearance to go up or down and achieve a level. Sometimes, I have had the trailer on such an unlevel site, that the front could not go down any lower. That means hitching back up and adding more lumber under all the tires.

Once I'm relatively (manually) leveled, then I hit the auto level and it then does it's magic. There are never any stroke-outs this way, and it always level really nice this way.

Yes, it sounds like a lot of work, but it really is not. I've leveled all my previous campers the same way, with lumber under the tires, there is no difference if the fifth wheel.

Unfortunately, especially with electric jacks, (mine) will not actually lift the camper so the wheels can come off the ground. And mine stroke out if extended too far. So, I always make sure all my jacks have blocks under them so the most any one of them has to extend is 6 inches or less. This works, and saves a lot of frustration attempting to clear out stroke out errors.

It also means carrying a large amount of lumber. But, because we camp at different campsites, and move about once a week, at best, every 2 weeks, the next campsite may be nice and level, and it might be on the side of a mountain. It pays to have the lumber, solid, heavy, and never wears out.

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Wouldn't that only work if you have the same terrain under the individual stabilizers every time?
No. You are teaching the controller what you mean by "level". It remembers the level-sensor readings, not the current leg extensions. Basically you are saying "when the controller sensors read like this, I consider the RV to be 'level'"
 
No. You are teaching the controller what you mean by "level". It remembers the level-sensor readings, not the current leg extensions. Basically you are saying "when the controller sensors read like this, I consider the RV to be 'level'"
Learn something new every day. I was thinking that the system has a built-in level sensor and it would know without having to be told, and that it did most of the work then you could just fine tune it afterward if it was still off a bit. As long as one of your legs doesn't stroke out, of course.
 
Before unhitching, I also make sure both front jacks are as close as possible in distance to the ground or boards under them. In other works, I make sure both landing gears extend the same length. I also learned the hard way that if one jack touches (ground) before the other, it will support the entire weight of the camper front before the other touches the (ground). Then that one leg really, really struggles until the other one touches. In order to get around this, I make sure both now extend equal distance, especially when on a side-to-side sloped campsite (which is very often in Indiana State Parks).
When we bought our first 5th wheel the dealer told us to be sure the landing gear hit the ground "at about the same time" so when I built my 11"x11"x3" jack blocks I also cut some 11"x11"x 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" plywood shims to use to be sure that happened. I still use them with this camper.
 
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I was doing some troubleshooting with Lippert last week on our hydralic 6 point leveling system and the tech said to make sure the front of the camper is higher before you hit auto level. He also taught me how to use the leveling system, my DW always does that as she is better at pushing buttons :cool:, it was the first time I used the system since we bought the trailer.
 
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