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nasman2

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Posts
84
Location
SE Ohio
Hello, I'm Dennis and we just purchased a Motor Home.  We've had a pop-up for 15 years.  My wife, Kristen, hates it and if it burst into flames she'd dance in its ashes.

We just happened into a 93 Jamboree 29Z and it arrived 2/3/2012.  We're just trying to get the manuals for all the equipment; generator, refrigerator, toilet, stove, water heater, furnace and power converter.  The owners information packet is MIA.  We're getting this thing into shape, looking for leaks and making sure the power is right.  The generator will start but won't stay running, which appears to be a common problem.  The plastic inside is really brittle and the drain valve for the fresh water tank broke off in my hand.  This unit spent most of its life in San Diego, but it looks like it was stored outside.

The batteries drained in 4 days, it must be the cold as I don't think there was anything left on, but who know at this point.  The fridge works on AC and gas. YES!  I haven't even tried to fire up the furnace or the water heater.  I'll concentrate on electrical for now.

Has anyone had any experience working with Fleetwood on things like wiring diagrams and such?

The powertrain is working fine.  I have a pretty good idea on what fuel mileage is going to be, that comes with the territory.

The internet is an amazing thing.  We found the manuals for the toilet, fridge, power converter (lots of info there from Parallax) and generator.  I could find the service manual for this but not the owners manual.  I had to settle for a newer manual for the series.  The generator is an Onan Microlite 4000.  I couldn't find a model number on the stove.  I didn't even look on the furnace or the WH yet.

So the adventure begins........

Dennis
 
If you click on the Library tab above you will find a wealth of information.  The other section you will find helpful is the remodeling your RV section.

The first thing I'd do for that generator is to clean out the carburetor and probably change all the fuel lines. 

Welcome to the board, glad to have you.  I also have a 90's vintage unit and have enjoyed it immensely.  And most of the information I learned about it came either from the library or other members on this board.
 
Great!  Thanks for the tip.  I'm just waiting for warmer weather, my pole barn is 5 inches too low to get it inside......
 
I had no issues with getting all the electrical and plumbing diagrams from Fleetwood Customer Service on my previous rig, a 2006 Expedition 38N. It may be a little more difficult for your older model rig, but check with them. Customer Service was very helpful.
 
Five inches shouldn't be such a problem on a pole barn, just dig the floor out TADA problem solved. Good luck on the remodel (on the RV and the barn)
 
Yeah, that's what everyone is telling me, good thing I never poured a concrete floor.

So I have the following issues:

Furnace burner doesn't light
Generator won't stay running when the start button is released
Generator pulses
Automatic step relay is sticking on, no matter the switch position, the step activates when the door is opened.
Pilot light for the stove wont light, but the stove works.  The oven pilot light does work.
Small leaks at the front and back roof seams.
Windshield Washer fluid pump inoperative

To quote Planes, Trains and Automobiles : "Wouldn't you know it, the radio works just fine!"

Other things that work:

LP Gas detector - the stove wouldn't light until I turn this thing on.
Refrigerator - gas and electric -This is a BIG plus
Microwave
Airconditioning
Power converter

Systems not tested due to cold weather:  anything water related.

So the first thing I have to worry about is the roof.  I'm missing the lower half of the ladder for the back, so I gently leaned a ladder against the side and took a peek.  I have work to do around the bubble vents and front and back seams.  I'll have to read up on that.  A previous owner put a bunch of eye bolts up there in a configuration I don't understand the purpose of.  I suspect they also had a satellite tracking dish since there's extra wiring and coax to an empty mount.  I found a small hole near the back that looks easy to deal with, but otherwise there are no tears.

So this unit is well used, but I've managed to find the manuals for all the major systems, but nothing for the RV portion.  So no plumbing or wiring diagrams.

Oh I'm missing a barrel chair, but my wife is thinking she'd like a love seat where the barrel chairs were.  Are there decent places to find RV furniture?

Thanks again for the comments.  I read with interest the discussion on LED interior lights.  That is going to have to wait as I think I'm in for some control board purchases. 

Dennis
 
You forgot to mention one thing in the last post. You must convince Kristin that this is a good investment.

Good luck on repairs and one thing I will tell you, it will keep you busy.

The first thing I would do on the generator is change the fuel filter and pore some fuel cleaner in the gas tank.
 
@ Wizard46, I'm in the interesting situation that this was my wife's idea.  I agree with you on the generator advice, but I'll most likely have to do a carb rebuild.

@ skyking4ar2, thanks for the link, what I have learned about Fleetwood is if you're dealing with pre-bankruptcy items, they will help you if they can, but it seems they don't have access to a lot of info on the older Motorhomes.  They did have a sales brochure which listed tank sizes ( except the listing for the fuel tank is wrong, I have a 35 not a 55 gallon), that was a big help.

Thanks to this forum I know I won't have to buy tires, I was sweating that one pretty bad. That is not an expense I need right now.  And I know how I'm going to tackle the roof, there is a wealth of info here.  I'm just waiting for warmer weather.

Dennis
 
So I have the following issues:
Furnace burner doesn't light

See the Furnace Troubleshooting Guide in the forum Library

Generator won't stay running when the start button is released
The start switch overrides the normal trouble cut-offs, such as low oil pressure and lack of 120v output. Either of those conditions will shut the engine down as soon as the switch is released.  It usually also runs the fuel pump continuously.

Generator pulses
Typically a dirty carb, but may be a bad voltage regulator as well.

Automatic step relay is sticking on, no matter the switch position, the step activates when the door is opened.
It is supposed to activate whenever the door is opened (safety), but it should be possible to position the switch to keep the step open. However, in most rigs the step will retract whenever the ignition is on, even if the switch  is trying to hold the steps open.

Pilot light for the stove wont light, but the stove works.  The oven pilot light does work.
The stove typically does not have a pilot light - just the oven. Are you sure there is a pilot? What make and model of stove?

Small leaks at the front and back roof seams.
The bane of RVers everywhere. Get yourself some quality caulk, e.g. Geocel Proflex RV, or Eternabond tape, and re-do those seams.

Windshield Washer fluid pump inoperative

Does the pump run but not move water, or does it not work at all? If the pump runs, try back-blowing with mild compressed air (or even blow by mouth). Often the pump inlet is just clogged with debris are scum in the water tank. If it does run at all, start with the electrical feed.
 
See the Furnace Troubleshooting Guide in the forum Library
Done, I'm waiting for better weather to isolate the issue.  Have I mentioned the library is awesome?

The start switch overrides the normal trouble cut-offs, such as low oil pressure and lack of 120v output. Either of those conditions will shut the engine down as soon as the switch is released.  It usually also runs the fuel pump continuously.
This also will require better weather, but I was able to find the appropriate manuals to assist in trouble shooting.  If I have to mess with slip rings this might require removing the generator from the motorhome as I can't see how I can do that otherwise.

Typically a dirty carb, but may be a bad voltage regulator as well.
Unfortunately I believe you're correct.

It is supposed to activate whenever the door is opened (safety), but it should be possible to position the switch to keep the step open. However, in most rigs the step will retract whenever the ignition is on, even if the switch  is trying to hold the steps open.
Maybe it's functioning normally now, where it wasn't before.  In any case the behavior has changed.  The step retracts no matter what the switch setting is.  I guess it's better than not working at all.

The stove typically does not have a pilot light - just the oven. Are you sure there is a pilot? What make and model of stove?
This is a 1993 Jamboree.  I believe the model number is Magic Chef BT18K.  Finding a manual has been difficult, but from what I can determine there is an adjustment for the stove pilot that may be a factor here.  There are 2 pilots, one for the stove and one for the oven.

The bane of RVers everywhere. Get yourself some quality caulk, e.g. Geocel Proflex RV, or Eternabond tape, and re-do those seams.
Eternabond.  You can get that stuff 3ft. wide.  I could use it to keep my kids in place, but  that's a pricey way to restrain children.

Does the pump run but not move water, or does it not work at all? If the pump runs, try back-blowing with mild compressed air (or even blow by mouth). Often the pump inlet is just clogged with debris are scum in the water tank. If it does run at all, start with the electrical feed.
Yeah, I don't hear the motor, so I'm guessing I'll start with the fuse.

Thanks for the suggestions, especially the caulk recommendations, I'm leaning towards the Eternabond tape, since I also should do the vents which appear to have had the caulk pull completely up.

Dennis
 
Welcome to the board.  As you're quickly learning, a lot of good people with a lot of help here.  I suspect a year from now you'll have yourself a pretty nice, reliable RV there.

From my boating days, many larger metropolitan areas should have RV bone yards (where do all the wrecked RVs go, anyway?) that are great hunting grounds for older RV parts at great prices.  Worked great for boats.

Furniture:

http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/categories.php?category_id=136

http://www.rvandvansurplus.com/bargain_furniture.asp?Vehicletype=RV

http://www.rvfurniturecenter.com/

http://www.rvfurniture.com/

http://www.rvfurniture.com/
 
Thanks JCZ for the links. 

I have one small victory.  The pilot light now works on the stove.  There as small adjustment screw on the pilot light shut off valve that was adjusted too low.  I backed it out, lit the pilot, then adjusted the flame to the right height.  Kristen will be happy with not having to use a lighter anymore.  I know pilot lights aren't as efficient but I find them much less troublesome then the piezo-electric ignitors.  I'm assuming in newer RVs the piezo ignitors are common.  Are they battery or do you need 120v?

We were hit with an ice storm last night. Where is spring?

Dennis
 
nasman2 said:
  Are they battery or do you need 120v?

Ok, I know, dumb question.  I'm sure the house battery handles that.  I'm not used to thinking about a house battery, our pop-up never had one......

Dennis
 
nasman2 said:
snipped...

  I'm assuming in newer RVs the piezo ignitors are common.  Are they battery or do you need 120v?

We were hit with an ice storm last night. Where is spring?

Dennis


On the RV stoves I am familiar with, the lighter for the stove top burners requires no outside power, just click the lighter knob and a spark appears at each burner (like magic!!) If gas is flowing at any given burner, it lights (more magic!!)..... 

This is unlike my home BBQ lighter which does require  an AA battery....

We are expecting another bout of winter next week, temps will be in the low  70's heh heh....
 
Dennis welcome .
Your RV sounds nice just needs a little TLC like we all do.
I bought a 2007 Dynamax 350SL in Oregon in 2011 it had 12,000 miles on it and I drove it home to Maryland with my wife and sister. I now have 20,000 miles on it and I am always doing something or checking something just to make sure everything works the way it supposed to.
The generator low oil pressure switch also maybe the issue why the generator will not stay running.
Good Luck Bob
 
20 year old motor homes certainly need their TLC.  Thanks for the comment Mosse888, your RV sounds like a nice rig.

I realized ALL of the windows leak.  With some searching on the web I realized the fix was fairly easy:  Get some butyl tape, pop the windows out, scrape off the old gunk, tape the perimeter of the window opening with the butyl tape and reinstall the window.  So the big question is how much water damage is in between the walls?  As I took the windows out I noticed 2 things: This particular motor home used styrofoam laminate for its walls, also the window openings had a rubber/vinyl film laid over the bottom of the window opening.  I couldn't figure out why the water ran inside the camper and not between the walls, now I know why. 

With the leak issues I haven't really worked on much else, since leaks will ruin everything.  And its snowing. Again.  Sigh.
 
With the roof and window leaks under control ( rope caulk makes a great temporary patch for the roof), we started testing the plumbing.  The camper appeared to be winterized, so I wasn't too worried.  We hooked up the city water and promptly found the toilet water valve was split and spraying water.  That resulted in having to pull the toilet.  We plugged the water line for that and continued to check the system.  There was no hot water pressure at all.  We had installed the plug out side, however It appeared the hot water tank supply side  was disconnected, so I hooked it up and repressurized.  Bad things happened, water was gushing into the camper from the hot water tank.  We pulled the insulation back on the tank and realized the outlet was disconnected too, but we hadn't seen it.  Then we noticed why both water lines were disconnected.  The tank had failed catastrophically with one end of the tank torn open.  So, no hot water for a good while.  I'll post a picture when I'm not on the iPad.  Good news is that is all that is wrong with the plumbing. :eek:

Undaunted we checked the freshwater tank and water pump and am happy to report all is well there.  Oh, the TV antenna and antenna amplifier work.

The automatic steps died too, which was no surprise to me, who thinks these things up? 

So, bit by bit, this is coming together.......
 
Split in the water tank usually means water was left in it and it froze-don't ask.  They can be welded and fixed, but I just replaced mine as I wanted new electronic ignition.  I turned off the pilot on our houseboat's stove as I didn't want extra gas usage and heat-however small, but I see you found that.  Even with all your repairs, I think a MH is cheaper and easier to work on than my houseboat was.
 

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