Hi all! My husband and I have been full-time since 2012. Have a 1999 Class A, which was stored for approx 5 or 6 months. We turned off all power and LP. Now we are back in it and having problems with the refrigerator when switching to LP. The pilot kicks on, but it only lasts a few minutes, then signals no FL, and it will not relight. Propane is working fine for stove and water heater, just not the fridge. Getting 12 volts, works fine on electric, both shoreline and generator, but LP fails in every instance. Any input/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
New to site, have questions / refrigerator problems...
- Thread starter EZPZ
- Start date
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Alfa38User
Well-known member
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- Oct 4, 2007
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Make and Model might help for more specific info!! And WELCOME!!
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
Open the inspection door at the bottom of the burner tube and blow or brush the debris off the burner.
EZPZEZPZ said:
When my Norcold fridge did that a new spark/sense electrode fixed it: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwidvIfIrdDiAhXK3J4KHUzRAKgQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rveparts.com%2Fspark-sense-electrode-61692222%2F&psig=AOvVaw1uYYVuDbsY-uXwDchSBrpC&ust=1559755823573086
John From Detroit
Well-known member
The sequence: Control board sends power to the gas valve (Solenoid) and to the spark generator. Theory has it FLAME ON.. (not always)
Then it shuts off spark generator and looks for 0.480 volts on the sense line.. NOW.. There are two types of controller systems and I DO NOT KNOW which your Fridge uses. Single wire and double wire
Single wire the spark wire (about 1000 volts AC) and the sense wire (0.480 DC) same wire. Can you see a possible issue if the switch from spark to sense goes farkled? I can.. Dual wire does not have that problem.. I believe this is what took out the control board on my furnace. Replaced with a Dinosaur board. From the looks of it ... They think like I do (protective device in the ideal spot for an Anti-just that-device).
Possible issues:
Gas valve does not open
IF you had tanks disconnected air in the lines (Will clear..eventually. the fridge does not clear as fast as say the water heater).
Clogged or partially clogged burner oriface (SUSPECT #!)
Bad sensor (rare but it does happen)
Bad control board
Bird or insect nest in stack (likely up on the upper end) causing excess heat to shut things down.
NOTE this is generic. also applies to Furnace (With added steps) and water heater.
Then it shuts off spark generator and looks for 0.480 volts on the sense line.. NOW.. There are two types of controller systems and I DO NOT KNOW which your Fridge uses. Single wire and double wire
Single wire the spark wire (about 1000 volts AC) and the sense wire (0.480 DC) same wire. Can you see a possible issue if the switch from spark to sense goes farkled? I can.. Dual wire does not have that problem.. I believe this is what took out the control board on my furnace. Replaced with a Dinosaur board. From the looks of it ... They think like I do (protective device in the ideal spot for an Anti-just that-device).
Possible issues:
Gas valve does not open
IF you had tanks disconnected air in the lines (Will clear..eventually. the fridge does not clear as fast as say the water heater).
Clogged or partially clogged burner oriface (SUSPECT #!)
Bad sensor (rare but it does happen)
Bad control board
Bird or insect nest in stack (likely up on the upper end) causing excess heat to shut things down.
NOTE this is generic. also applies to Furnace (With added steps) and water heater.
