Newbie. Is there a Magic Board that tells me which RV to buy?

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I don't think I have 2000 lbs of stuff. 

LOL! Everybody says the same thing. Nearly everybody is wrong. You probably won't have 2000 lbs on the first outing, but a year later I'll bet you are in the 1200-1500 range.


Be careful with those weight numbers - anything that comes from a brochure or website is suspect, either out-of-date or the most optimistic scenario.  GVWR & GCWR are usually solid numbers, but things like Max tow rating, Payload or Cargo Capacity, and Dry or unladen Weight are rarely accurate because they vary with the configuration of the vehicle.  To be very useful, those numbers have to be taken directly from the individual placards on the truck or trailer.  Federal law requires the placard weights to be accurate within 100 lbs, which essentially means they are actual measurements for that specific vehicle as it left the factory. Sometimes the difference is quite large.

Also be aware that Trailer tow capability and cargo carrying capability are estimates based on certain assumptions. Cargo carrying (payload) is calculated without any passengers and gear onboard - just fuel is included.  In the truck, that means that the driver and passengers are part of the cargo weight.  And the more cargo weight in the truck, the LESS trailer weight it can tow.
Since you have the truck and have picked out the trailer, get the actual numbers from their weight placards.

 

[Lou Schneider]

However the pin weight of 2440 gives me a total of 14,640 lbs.  My truck tows a bit over 15000.  Is that right?  Is that too close to the top weight for the truck?  It sure is complicated.

IMO, yes. You want towing a trailer to be a pleasant experience, not a chore.  Driving a vehicle loaded to it's maximum capacity is a chore.

Tow ratings are determined using a flatbed trailer with a small box of bricks (or steel) on it for minimum wind resistance.  The official rating is for a trailer that is not much taller or wider than the truck itself, the size of a utility or single horse trailer.

RV trailers are longer, taller and wider, so they need more power to carve a hole through the air as they go down the road.  And their side profiles present a larger sail for sidewinds to push around.

GM doesn't mention Frontal Area in their Towing Guide, but you'll find it in the Ford Towing Guides for all of their vehicles going back several years.

The Maximun Frontal Area ranges from 12-20 square feet for passenger cars (basically no taller or wider than the car itself), up to 60 square feet (8 ft x 7 ft) for a conventional trailer and 75 sq. ft. for a 5th wheel trailer (8 ft. X 9 3/8 ft.) for the F250 pickup.

This is one reason why many experienced RVers like to stay at 80% or less of the "official" tow ratings.  While tow ratings have become more realistic in recent years, they still assume you're towing a trailer with minimal wind resistance.  Staying under the maximum ratings leaves some reserve in both power and handling to handle the extra bulk of an RV trailer.  80% of a 15,000 lb tow rating is 12,000 lbs.

You'll never hear someone complain they have too much truck for their trailer.

 

[Suzn1253]

Thank you all so much for your help. 

So the answer is that I need a truck with more towing capacity?  Wow...we thought when we traded up from the Silverado 1500 with a 3.08 (stupid) axle, to a Duramax 6.6L 2500 HD with 3.73 a.r. we'd have more than enough towing capacity.  Crazy.  I think if I told my husband we need to again trade in a truck we've had for a week, he would have a stroke. And no where on the body of the truck can I find the towing capacity.  I found the sticker, but it's just giving the GVWR and the GAWR for front and back.  Another sticker with tire pressure and size.  The only reference to towing capacity is in the book.  It specifies the engine, axle, drive (2 or 4 wheel) and then gives the tow rating. 

Alternately a lighter trailer will do I guess....I have seem some larger footprints that weigh less.  But we are in love with the trailer we are looking at.  It's never a good thing to fall in love with inanimate objects. 

Sorry I am just sort of thinking out loud.  I'm making charts and trying to work it out because I think we're going to buy it.  I know, you're rolling your eyes and wondering why I'm asking for advice I'm not taking. I'd be thinking the same thing if the situation was reversed. 

I'll be back with updates I'm sure.  You can say I told you so.  Uggggh. 

Thanks again!!!

Sue 

 

[Ernie n Tara]

You have another sticker, usually yellow or with a yellow bar, on the drivers door frame. It will state something to the effect that "maximum cargo carrying capacity is nnnn lbs". That includes pin weight, hitch, cargo in truck, passengers, etc. For you that is likely to be 2,000 to 2,700 lbs.

Ernie

 

[Suzn1253]

Seriously Ernie?  That's all?  That is nothing in terms of lbs. I have already figured my numbers to be over 3000 lobs.  I will look again and hope it looks better. 

Thank you!
Sue

 

[Suzn1253]

Ernie!  I found it!  Is this really possible that it says the combined weight of cargo and occupants should never exceed 1975lbs??????

What doesn't make sense to me is that if the capacity is supposed to be 15k and the truck weighs 10k how does the math work?  I know that there is an allowance for gasoline.  A 36 gallon tank, 300 lbs give or take, so I still don't get it. 

Also does that figure the pin weight and the weight of the hitch itself?

BTW you were pretty spot on.

TY,
Sue

 

[Lou Schneider]

Tow ratings are mostly fiction in the real world.  The manufacturers make them as large as possible for bragging rights.  You've just discovered one example.

Your truck has a 15,000 lb Tow Rating and a 1975 lb load capacity.

In theory, a 15,000 lb. trailer can have as little as 10% hitch weight.  It won't tow worth a darn but 1500 lbs. hitch weight + a 150 lb. driver + 150 lbs for the hitch itself + 150 lbs. for gas (based on the weight of 1/2 a tank) equals 1950 lbs load on the truck.

That's within the truck's 1975 lb maximum load rating.  In fact, you can add another 25 lbs to the truck (175 lb driver?)  before the truck becomes overloaded.

You won't break anything if you're a few hundred pounds over the rated weights, but you will have less than optimum towing performance, your truck may wear out prematurely and you may be found at fault if a sharp attorney can show the reduced performance of the overloaded truck was a contributing cause of an accident.

Yet another reason experienced RVers like to stay a bit below the maximum tow ratings. 

 

[Ernie n Tara]

Note that Lou is using weights for a trailer, not a fifth wheel for his example. Your fiver will be way overweight when you include passengers hitch, etc., etc.

The reason your carrying capacity is so low is probably that you have an upscale truck and possibly a diesel. What you need is a 3500 class truck and even there you may be in dually class.

Ernie

 

[Suzn1253]

Geez, this is rather unsettling.  I can't imagine having a dually that we will also use as a vehicle when not attached to the fiver.  Frankly it's a pretty large truck as it is.  But I don't want a small RV.  I need room.  The dogs need room.  It's not a very pretty picture.

OK well you all have given me some great info which I'd never have known about if I hadn't reached out and y'all hadn't responded so thank you all so much for your time and effort and candid answers.

Sue xoxo