Newbie seeking advice on which RV to buy…

[ward005]

I’m looking to purchase my first RV. My SUV has a max tow capacity of 5000lbs. Our budget is around $10k. We can buy a 21’ Coleman Lantern, a couple years old, practically brand new or we can buy an 8-10 year old Jayco or Keystone or Forest River. Am I more likely to have mechanical issues, appliance failures, leaks, plumbing issues, A/C and heat issues and, overall, costly repairs with these newer Coleman’s or older Jayco or Forest River trailers? We plan to camp a couple times per month locally and my goal is to avoid buying a money pit or something I’ll constantly have to work on. Basically, what is my best bet for the least amount of repairs and maintenance? Thank you.

 

[rvlifer]

Whatever you decide on get it inspected by an nvria inspector. Those are very similar rvs so a thorough inspection is the best way to figure out which is likely to have less issues. Consider a fiberglass shell rv such as casita or nucamp. If you can afford one of those they tend to have far fewer issues than the ones you mentioned

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

my goal is to avoid buying a money pit or something I’ll constantly have to work on.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[DonTom]

Our budget is around $10k.

avoid buying a money pit

Mark had the perfect answer for you.

No matter how you do it, an RV will be a money pit and there is no way to get around it.

Just to fill up the tank for trips will cost some bucks, even if your 10K$ rig doesn't fall apart.

or something I’ll constantly have to work on.

I am always working on both of my motorhomes on one thing or another. This one cost me $161,500.00 a few years ago and it needed work before I drove it off the lot as new--which is not uncommon.

-Don- Picacho Peak, AZ

 

[Jackiemac]

Welcome to the forum.

You also need to check the cargo carrying capacity of your vehicle. Look for a sticker on the door or pillar.

 

[tlmgcamp1]

Remember that you should assume that you are pulling the gross weight, not the dry weight and yo account for the weight of people. Also assume that the tongue weight is 10-15% of the gross weight, not the dry weight

 

[ward005]

Just curious if it’s better buying a newer Coleman (assuming lower quality) or an older Jayco that may be better quality even though older? I will look into warranty options for the newer models

 

[Onyrlef]

I’m looking to purchase my first RV. My SUV has a max tow capacity of 5000lbs. Our budget is around $10k. We can buy a 21’ Coleman Lantern, a couple years old, practically brand new or we can buy an 8-10 year old Jayco or Keystone or Forest River. Am I more likely to have mechanical issues, appliance failures, leaks, plumbing issues, A/C and heat issues and, overall, costly repairs with these newer Coleman’s or older Jayco or Forest River trailers? We plan to camp a couple times per month locally and my goal is to avoid buying a money pit or something I’ll constantly have to work on. Basically, what is my best bet for the least amount of repairs and maintenance? Thank you.

You'll want to be towing no more than ~80% of your listed towing capacity. If you add 1k to the Lantern's dry weight you'd be in that neighborhood with a ~500 lb tongue wt. With a good weight distribution hitch on a Class III 2" receiver you'd be fine. Insist the camper is run through a thorough checkout with you present, including the water heater, run the furnace, a/c, stove, etc. if there's no propane , get some. Look for signs of previous leaking issues to include around the door and windows. If it has an awning, extend it. Check the trailer's axle, tires and brakes. It will have electric brakes, so just know you'll likely have to buy an aftermarket brake controller and have it installed.

 

[ward005]

Awesome. Thank you all for the info. We’re going to get out and walk through some RVs and see what we like and inspect it then.

 

[Onyrlef]

Just curious if it’s better buying a newer Coleman (assuming lower quality) or an older Jayco that may be better quality even though older? I will look into warranty options for the newer models

Jayco and quality are not necessarily synonymous. Along with Keystone, Forest River, et al it's more buyer beware. Be that as it may be however, if you do your do diligence and for your budgeted $10k any of those should be okay. I wouldn't be buying any extended warranties regardless, not on a $10k camper.

 

[ward005]

Ok great. I understand $10k is certainly entry level. I’m looking at buying a 20’ 3500lb travel trailer. I have a Nissan Pathfinder with a tow capacity of 5000lbs so that leaves a 1500lb cushion.

 

[Kirk]

Just curious if it’s better buying a newer Coleman (assuming lower quality) or an older Jayco that may be better quality even though older?

I am wondering why you think that a Coleman RV would be lower quality than the Jayco? Are you comparing similar models? Both brands are owned by Thor Industries. With the tow vehicle that you have you will be limited to one of the lighter weight RVs and none of them are particularly high quality as the weight limits what type of materials can be used to build them.

We’re going to get out and walk through some RVs and see what we like and inspect it then.

That is the first thing that you need to do. With the budget that you have and the weight limitation of your tow vehicle, you will not find any of the highest quality RVs as all brands that fit your requirements will be what we call "entry level" and inexpensively built. For occasional use they can serve well and not be excessively expensive to own. I have owned RVs for years, stating with a used popup, then a new popup, and eventually 12 years living fulltime in our class A motorhme, then downsized back to an light weight, 20' travel trailer. None of them have been a money pit.

 

[rvlifer]

Ok great. I understand $10k is certainly entry level. I’m looking at buying a 20’ 3500lb travel trailer. I have a Nissan Pathfinder with a tow capacity of 5000lbs so that leaves a 1500lb cushion.

I wouldnt use a pathfinder no matter what the specs say. We used a pathfinder and after using it to tow an rv under its rated tow capacity for a couple of years it fell apart. Couldnt handle it.

 

[KnightEagle]

What no one has mention is how the receiver is attached to the car. Not all cars have frames under them. They are folded tin that's thicker than the body of the car. So most hitch's are bolted through the trunk. Our old Oldsmobile we had a hitch installed they drilled 12 holes placed a thick steel plate and bolted the hitch to it. So watch your weight i saw someone said 80% I think 60%. Have the trailer weight plus all the toys you will be taking and the household goods. It scares me seeing some of these trailers going down the road where the trailer is twice the size of the car. A heavy wind can make that 4000lb trailer feel like its twice that. There are video's on u tube where cars pulling trailers getting blowen over. I use car and truck as one.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

For occasional use they can serve well and not be excessively expensive to own.

The two tires I bought for my class A last year cost more than the first trailer I had. I got three years use out of that trailer and sold it for what we paid for it, not counting updates and repairs. I look at RV's as strictly expense and entertainment. If the thing does what I want it to do when I want to do it, then the cost is strictly what value I place on that experience. The popup I bought took some work to make it nice but that will be the case for any trailer or motorhome you pick. The key thing is to worry less about details and nuances between models and types and get out there with the thing. Especially when it comes to perceptions you read on the internet, which need to be taken with a grain of salt (the holy grail of "best" brand or model). Yeah, after a while a missing feature or problem will rise to the surface and you'll want to resolve that but don't overanalyze the minutia. At the end of the day this is a box you drag into the woods so you don't get cold, wet or have to sleep on the ground. With that as your baseline you weigh cost vs what this thing will ultimately do for you. I like camping in the mountains and have had just as much fun doing that with a tent, an old popup, and now an old class A. If you like a particular trailer then get the thing and have fun. If you're vapor locked on features, options, colors, fabrics, hardware, etc etc then you're taking the fun out before you even start. Let good enough be good enough.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[ward005]

Appreciate all the advice! Again, my wife and I are just in the research phase right now. But we’re going to actually get out and check some of these trailers out. It will be occasional use so nothing has to be over the top. Thanks for all the advice!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

In that size & type of trailer, they are all "entry level", cause that's pretty much where the market is for them. I think what you are seeing is that older ones in that size have held their value better than most RVs, primarily because prices for new ones have jumped.
Chances are most of the appliances (furnace, water heater, fridge) and systems (water pump) are pretty much the same whoever built it, but the workmanship (wiring & plumbing) may be a little better in a vintage Jayco.

 

[Jackiemac]

I hope you have checked your CCC or Payload on tow vehicle. It has to "carry" weight as well as "tow" weight.

It is important to understand this. We almost bought an unsuitable truck because we didn't understand the importance of the two.

It's not easy for me to explain but hopefully someone else can.

 

[Derby6]

New or old doesn’t matter. It’s the floor plan and accessories that you want and works for you that matters.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

My guess is your budget of $10K should get you a pretty nice used trailer. I'm with Gary in thinking a little older Jayco will give you better build quality than a Coleman. Even though they are both owned by Thor they are separate divisions. Coleman is a licensed name and Thor uses it to grab the attention of anyone who has experience with Coleman products and will correlate that experience to a TT. But, it is a very cheaply made entry-level and entry-price point trailer Thor uses with "gotcha" pricing.