Newbie with towing & TT purchase Questions.

[GravitKlz]

Hello,

We are a family of 4 (me, my wife and our 2 boys, 2 & 4) and we have decided to purchase a Travel Trailer. We live in Southern New England and would normally stay in CT with maybe 1 longer trip per year within NE or NY. After doing extensive research, I began shopping for our first TT. I quickly realized I still had a lot to learn. I spent a lot of time researching brands, floorplans, weights and options. We decided a bunkhouse made the most sense, but we wanted the separate room (with a door) for when the boys are sleeping or taking a nap. My truck has a towing capacity of 9500 and I simply thought anything under 9500 pounds would work. I've since learned it's much more complicated than that. Originally we considered the Jay Flight 32BHDS, (too heavy), then the WhiteHawk 31BH (borderline too heavy). We would love to get the Passport GT 3350BH, but after reading some posts here I'm concerned that it might also be a poor choice. The only other option I've found that might suit our needs would be the Jay Feather 29QB. Yes there are plenty other choices, but either we don't like the floorplan or it's outside our price range. I would appreciate any advice that would help select the best camper. Normally we will likely take 2 vehicles, so passengers and cargo would be limited in the truck payload. I do have some experience with flat bed trailers and regularly drive trucks as large as 47' long, but I do not have a CDL. I will include my tow vehicle and other pertinent information below. Thanks, Dan

2012 Chevy Silverado 1500, 5.3 V8, 4x4, Crew Cab, LTZ+ with HD Tow Package
Curb Weight: 5,487 (Manufacturer - I haven't weighed the truck yet to verify)
GVWR: 7,000
GCVWR: 15,000
Payload: 1,513
Towing Capacity: 9,500
GAWR FRT: 3,950
GAWR RR: 3,950
Tires - Max Load: 2,403

Trekker WDH 48703 (1,000 pound)

Passengers: < 500 pounds (4 of us, maybe once a year)
Solo: 225, with 4 y/o: < 300

Keystone Passport GT UltraLite 3350BH
UVW: 6,960  (Manufacturer: 6,560)
GVWR: 9,480
CCC: 2,520  (Manufacturer: 2,930)
Hitch Weight: 680 (Dry)

 

[SpencerPJ]

Welcome. 
Well you are sure to get some very knowledgeable comments. 
I would like to say up front, smart man for doing your homework before you buy.  Many people enlightened.  I might say, there are many threads on this subject, here is a recent and current one that really brings the numbers to light.  http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,116428.0/topicseen.html

 

[GravitKlz]

Thank you, I will read that thread.

 

[QZ]

I had the same truck in a 2013. Bed was loaded to 1800 including tongue weight, TT was 22 ft 4200 lb. It pulled it good and handled well and never felt white knuckle or bothersome. My son had the same truck 2011 with a little less in the bed than I had but his TT was 5200 lb. He siad it pulled well but wouldnt want any more. He then pulled a small toyhauler out west that I'm guessig was closer to 6k. When he got home he bought a Ram 3/4 2012 CTD CC 4x4 LB ad said his 5200 lb TT felt like it wasnt back there and never used an equalizer. He then went to a FW at 10K  and it works just fine but wished he had bought a one ton.

For that weight I'd want a 3/4 ton but that's just me. It also probably depends on how close to home a person stays

 

[SpencerPJ]

I had the same truck in a 2013. Bed was loaded to 1800 including tongue weight, TT was 22 ft 4200 lb. It pulled it good and handled well and never felt white knuckle or bothersome. My son had the same truck 2011 with a little less in the bed than I had but his TT was 5200 lb. He siad it pulled well but wouldnt want any more. He then pulled a small toyhauler out west that I'm guessig was closer to 6k. When he got home he bought a Ram 3/4 2012 CTD CC 4x4 LB ad said his 5200 lb TT felt like it wasnt back there and never used an equalizer. He then went to a FW at 10K  and it works just fine but wished he had bought a one ton.

For that weight I'd want a 3/4 ton but that's just me. It also probably depends on how close to home a person stays

I've heard this same story a thousand times.  Thanks for sharing.  I didn't want to bust GravitKlz bubble too fast, but I do tend to agree, I'd stick with 25 foot MAX, there is a great deal more to consider than weights. 

 

[RV Bill]

We have been researching the same as you and bought a 2017, 3350 BH.  Your truck will be fine.  The weight (dry) is between 6,500 and 6,900 lbs. Normally, ?stuff? you add is less than 1,000 lbs.  I will not tow with water since it shifts and causes problems and fill when we arrive.

 

[SpencerPJ]

There is more to the equation than weight alone.  Not saying your truck can't do it, just be careful, not everyone have nerves of steel.

Great video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M75Sm7XaIdY

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Normally, ?stuff? you add is less than 1,000 lbs.

I would say that is the low side of the "normal" range; most people are shocked once they weigh the loaded rig and find out how much they really carry. And "stuff" grows after every trip.  Parkinson's Law applies too - the more storage space the RV has, the more stuff accumulates. What's the point of having space if you don't use it?

Carrying water gets a bad rep in some RV venues, but it's largely an old wives tale from the days of severely under-capable trailers.  However, there is still the occasional model that places the fresh tank in a poor location (e.g. behind the axles) or is inadequately supported.  It's always good to have some water onboard, though, since you never know when you may need some while en route. Maybe to use the toilet, to refill an overheated radiator, or even a roadside breakdown. Stuff happens. Carrying even 10-15 gallons of water is a useful precaution (and adds 80-120 lbs).

 

[WannaBeRVing]

There is more to the equation than weight alone.  Not saying your truck can't do it, just be careful, not everyone have nerves of steel.

Great video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M75Sm7XaIdY

OK guys, help me out here.  I'm surprised nobody pointed out what appears to be a fallacy in this video.  He keeps using the TT model numbers to determine the TT length.  More than that, he says it indicates the inside length.  In other threads on this site folks have pointed out that there's no connection between the model number and TT length, and that a listed TT length usually includes the hitch, meaning the TT is actually shorter.  I myself followed up on that and found that to be true. 

So, his basic premise is wrong to begin with, he's assuming these TTs are much longer than they really are.  Am I right?

 

[SpencerPJ]

OK guys, help me out here.  I'm surprised nobody pointed out what appears to be a fallacy in this video.  He keeps using the TT model numbers to determine the TT length.  More than that, he says it indicates the inside length.  In other threads on this site folks have pointed out that there's no connection between the model number and TT length, and that a listed TT length usually includes the hitch, meaning the TT is actually shorter.  I myself followed up on that and found that to be true. 

So, his basic premise is wrong to begin with, he's assuming these TTs are much longer than they really are.  Am I right?

The length is almost 99% a correlation with the model#  A XYZ 22BH, well it's probably 22 feet long, give or take.  Who cares if it's inside or outside measurement, that changes the length 6 inches max.

The hitch implies, add another 3+ feet to your set-up.

What I gather from this video is: Often times we talk 'weights my truck can pull', but rarely does that discussion discuss 'How the weight is distributed', as in High or Low center of gravity.

This video IMO helps explain to the newer user that there will be others financially motivated to lure you into something that might meet specs on paper, but that there is more to the equation.  Example, if you found an ultra ultra light 40 foot TT, 12 feet high, all bambo material inside, weighing 5000#, would you pull it down the highway with your 1500, or 150 truck?  Why not?

Everyone has their comfort levels.  As the OP stated, he is a family of 4, and they have decided to purchase a TT.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

An RV model number quite often incorporates the floor plan length, but it's not totally reliable.  After all, it's a model designation assigned by the manufacturer, so complete arbitrary.  However, most manufacturers include the usable length as part of it, so it's a convenient shorthand notation.

The interior usable length of length of a travel trailer is substantially different than its external length because of the long "tongue". which typically adds 4-5 feet overall.  Bumpers on trailers and motorhomes can often add a foot as well.  Some years back, the RVIA tried to standardize advertised lengths by excluding external appurtenances such as bumpers, trailer tongues, 5W pin box extensions, etc.  The idea was that the length shown in an ad or brochure would reflect the same amount of usable space whether the RV was a travel trailer, 5W, or any of the various motorhome types.

 

[Old_Crow]

I know the length of my Bounder 36S varies by a foot depending on if I'm trying to get a reservation at a small campground or bragging about the coach to a passer-by.  ;D

 

[martin2340]

Mine varies by 3'. 36' total length, 32' if in a smaller state park as others have mentioned.