No 120V Shore Power in a 2002 Holiday Rambler Atlantis

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Member Title: No power
Members focused on tracing shore power step by step rather than guessing at components. The main recommendation is to confirm where 120V stops: start at the campground pedestal, then inspect the shore cord plug for heat damage, corrosion, melted pins, or a broken wire, then move to the transfer switch if equipped, and finally the main AC breaker panel, converter, or inverter input. Several members also advised fully resetting every AC breaker, especially any master breaker, because a breaker...
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shawnsrv

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2024
Posts
22
Hi all! I’m back and while I thought I had my electric power issues licked I’m still having problems. I got all my 12v items working like lights but still no 120 power. This was my previous post-

Holiday Rambler Atlantis 2002 no electric and being new to rv’ing no clue where to begin to fix.
I’m at a trailer park hooked into shore power which has been checked and seems to be working fine. So that means it’s in the RV but I’ve checked the switches and breakers and they seem fine? Suggestions? Like I said I’m new to treat me as a RV dummy.
You can go back to my previous thread at shawnsrv to see wat has already been discussed. Generator already discussed and ruled out. I’m wondering about my power cord but I can’t see where it goes once it enters the coach. Anyone kno where I can get schematics or ways to figure this out?
 
Does your RV have a "Master" AC circuit breaker? (Some do, some don't) If it does, turn the breaker off, then reset it - even if it looks like it has not been tripped. Circuit breakers can look like they're set, even though they've tripped internally. (They've fooled many of us)

If you're sure there is good AC power coming out of the power pedestal, but you're not getting AC power in the RV, take a look at the plug at the end of your power cord. (The part that plugs into the power pedestal) The metal pins can get corroded and cause increased resistance and heat, which can melt the ruberized plug-head around the pins, which can damage the wiring inside the plug itself. (It happened to me) Most OEM plugs cannot be disassembled, so you won't be able to see the damage but you can test for it. If you see melting around the pins, and they seem a bit loose, you may have a broken wire inside the plug, like I did.

If your plug and power cord are NOT damaged, you can test for 120 volts at your converter, or inverter (if you have one.) When testing your converter, make sure you're testing the 120 volt AC input connections and not the 12 volt output connections.. If AC power is NOT present, that means there's a break in the AC circuit somewhere upstream. If you have an auto-transfer switch (a switch that switches between shore power and genset power) you can remove its cover and test for 120 volts at the power cord's connections. (If you have an auto transfer switch, that's the first thing your power cord connects to from the power pedestal)

Try those things
 
OK class A
Do you get 12o when you start the genratoR?
NO: check breaker(s) on the generator USE a flashight to make sure they display "ON" on the moving part (They are not well labeled) and then make either an ON or OFF label and stick it to the panel to help in the future If they were off DId turning them on fix it: Yes Skip to Generator worked NO turn generator off.

The following tests you need a test light set or voltmeter and note you are working with live wires so SHOCK HAZARD wearing Rubber Kitchen type gloves is a good idea.

Folllow power If you have a DETQCHABLE power cord 50 amp you have 3 slots in the Marinco "outlet" on the cord. (The part that plugs into the RV two of the slots are "alike" a volt meter slot to slot should show 240 when connected to shore.. .like to DIFFERENT iss 120 (The safety ground is the metal strip on the outside of the socket) GOOD Continue. BAD fix plug or socket

As noted I helped a brand new rig with a bad socket

Next find the auto transfer switch inside the RV and look for power there Both on the main line in an the out

Not the breaker box. Same thing and check for loose connections

Finally Do you have an Energency management system... I don't do those other than what does the display say? (most RV's in the Holiday Rambler class do NOT have those)
 
I got all my 12v items working
Is that by replacing a battery or how is that power being supplied? Chargers/converters run on 120V so on the chance that's working there's at least one thing working.

Report back where you measure 120V so more specific advice can be offered.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
I got all my 12v items working like lights but still no 120 power.
Tell us how you got the 12V power? Did you get the chassis engine started? Did you charge the batteries? Have you checked the electrolyte levels? Your RV has what we call a converter that if it is getting 120V-ac power it will convert that into 12V-dc to keep the battery charged and supply the lights and appliances. Does the RV have a slide out and is it extended?
. I’m wondering about my power cord but I can’t see where it goes once it enters the coach.
Physically trace that cord. If you know where the 120V distribution panel with all of the circuit breakers is, that is where the power cord goes, unless you have a generator set, in which case there would be a transfer device that both connect to and that selects which one to connect to. Have you looked inside of the 120V panel? The cord probably ends at the back of it.
 
Get a non-contact voltage tester, it's safer and faster to use to trace incoming power. Just follow the wiring all the way from the CG power pedestal all the way to the main breaker panel. While there hold it next to each breaker to see it they are receiving 120VAC.
 

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