But you also want to be able to charge from the genny without having to run the thing for days, so go with
an 80 amp lith converter at the min.
I highly recommend to use a
SmartShunt to see how well your batteries are charged instead of having to guess.
-Don- Reno, NV
Cool, I don't mind the cost of the 80amp converter.
I added the smart-shunt to my notes. It would be very useful to know when batteries are fully charged, no matter what I'm using as a power-source, or about how long I have until the batteries are empty.
Ahem...HARDware engineer.
..... I get the "worst case" idea but would plant the seed that for "worst case" you run the genset, and size your battery bank to "typical".
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
My brother is a hardware engineer.
Yeah, stovetop water is probably the most practical. I guess there's nothing 1.5kw that I really need to run when not on shore-power.
My desktop computer is probably the biggest area, where I could benefit from some efficiency. It has a 750w power supply, though not sure actual wattage used. Regardless, DC to AC to DC is an inefficiency.
I don't know precisely how long something like 200AH would last, but perhaps I start with one 200AH to 300AH, and see how that does, before adding another.
Your genny output is 120 VAC ...
-Don- Reno, NV
Thanks, that was helpful!
...So, since you only need 5a of 120v to get 50a @ 12v, changing the shore power capacity will have no effect.
Also, very helpful! Thanks!
Then you don't really need a big inverter. Instead of spending 3K....
You already have a generator, solar panels at this point are redundant.
How are the tires? Do the AC units blow cold air? When was the last time the brakes were serviced? Does the fridge stay cold?
Hah, good points.
The solar idea is really a 20th priority kind of thing. And yes, I need to figure out why my fridge doesn't get that cold off of propane.
...The generator may have an automatic transfer device that will automatically shift loads to the generator when it starts, and you can tell by starting it when not connected to shore power and try operating the 120V things...
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
If you have a typical RV type refrigerator it must have 12v power to operate and also either propane
My refrigerator is definitely gas and 12v. Though it doesn't seem to get that cold off of gas, so I need to go through the manual, and potentially get it serviced or recharged.
If yours does have an automatic transfer from shore power cord to generator, it is very important not to start the generator when connected to 120V shore power with any heavy loads in operation.
I appreciate the warning.
We could probably give you far better answers if you would tell us what year, make, and model the RV that you have is. I am going to guess that it is a motorhome of some type, as onboard generators are most common on them but there are travel trailers and fifth wheels that have one so that is only a guess.
2006 Forest River Sunseeker, 31ft. I don't know the exact model number. Not sure the generator model, I'll have to grab that next time I'm at the RV.
Without reading thru all of the posts, I will COMPLIMENT the OP (SunFun) for their completeness in asking the question and providing all of the needed pics and information in the FIRST POST, and avoiding the "twenty questions game" that many leave the readers to ask due to lack of information.
Feel FREE to ask away about anything, someone will try to answer.
Charles
Thanks, I do try to be efficient.
10KW ( Continuous )not enough? Just need a lot of battery.
-Don- Reno, NV
Did someone accuse full-timers of being practical? Herrasy!