no power to bat disconnect switch and everything on.

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pullinurleg

Active member
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
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Location
Utah
Hi,
I recently hooked my batteries back up in anticipation for the season. I noticed everything was on and thought the battery disconnect switch in the on position so i switched it and my radio and lights inside still stay on (before they would go off). So I removed and disconnected the switch and put a meter on the wires and i have no voltage going to the switch and the stereo and stuff still stay on. I have basic knowledge of electrical and thinking to start tracing the wires from batteries to see if i can find a short, but not sure where to go from there.
Can someone steer me in the right direction? Its a 2014 cruiser 215wsk fun finder.
 
So the battery is disconnected but your lights and radio are still on? Maybe a dumb question on my part but is the trailer plugged in to 120V? If so, that's where your power is coming from - no battery power needed since the converter is powering the lights from the 120V source.
 
Trailer not plugged in to shore power, batteries hooked up but disconnect switch does not turn 12v stuff off like it did in past. And with switch disconnected there is no power to switch and 12v stuff still works. Like radio display and 12v lights.
 
I'm assuming there is a short in the wires between the batteries and disconnect switch.
 
The wall switch isn't really the power switcher - it is an activator for a big relay that actually turns 12v power on/off. Sounds like your relay is stuck in the ON position. Maybe failed, or maybe just needs a sharp rap to unstick it.  The relay may be part of the power center or may be aseprate module between battery and converter/charger.
 
Thanks Gary. So I could just not worry about it as long as I make sure everything is turned off so batteries don't die? I have a solar system also that will keep them topped off.
 
Worrying is your call.  I'm the type of guy who fixes everything cause I believe that sooner or later a failed component is going to do something I don't like. You may wake up some morning and find that relay open and no power...

It's possible that the relay is fine and it defaults to ON if there is no power from the switch. The problem may be the power source to the switch.
 
I am like you like to fix before it gets worse. Is it possible there is a relay between battery and switch since there is no power to the switch? The switch wires run through floor from the monitor panel it's mounted to.
 
Question is this switch a 3 position spring return to center marked ON and Off or USE and Disconnect?

IF so it will have 4 wires on the back of it by the way.

This type of switch is a remote control for a device that goes CLUNK elsewhere. no power to any pin means a 5 amp fuse in the battery control center id ... Hitory.. Most likely.

NOTE. not really a problem since the only way to disconnect for STORAGE i a wrench and the rest of the time .. You leave 'em connected.

Now if the switch is an ON/OFF toggle. Disregard the above.
 
Well those generally are real disconnect switches. Should have battery power on one lead and house power (IF connected same as battery) on the other.. Why you see no power I can not tell you less the other meter lead is not properly grounded or the switch has been "Bypassed" somehow.
 
The wire size at the switch is a good clue. If it is the actual power switch, it should be at least 10 gauge wire and more likely 8 or even 6.  If it is lighter gauge wire, it has to be operating a relay device.
 
Yes Gary it is 8 guage wire. Update I finally got a break in the rainy weather and got out to diagnose more. I started with the junction box near the batteries on tongue of trailer. When I opened it up and pulled the wires out there were 3 Bunches of multiple wires twisted together with twist on electrical cap and found 2 bunches were loose. Tightened them up and reconnected batteries. Went in and tried the switch and now it works!
So now I am going to get out and take the caps off and solder those connections and recap them. If anyone has a better suggestion besides soldering the connections I would like to hear them.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Soldering is fine, just make sure you have clear bright copper wire showing and use enough heat so the solder flows smoothly throughout the wires.  Then support the wires firmly when you're done so they don't fatigue from vibration.

The reason you still had power through the disconnect switch is because it's relay mechanically latches.  Isolation relays only draw power to move them from one position to the other (on or off).  The coil power is removed when you release the switch and the mechanical latch holds it in place until you press the switch to move the relay to the opposite position.
 
Amen concerning enough heat. 8 gauge wire is tough to solder without a generous heat source. I tried to do 8 gauge for a friend using his little 45 watt iron and it just couldn't get the big wires hot enough to produce a reliable solder joint.
 
pullinurleg said:
Yes Gary it is 8 guage wire. Update I finally got a break in the rainy weather and got out to diagnose more. I started with the junction box near the batteries on tongue of trailer. When I opened it up and pulled the wires out there were 3 Bunches of multiple wires twisted together with twist on electrical cap and found 2 bunches were loose. Tightened them up and reconnected batteries. Went in and tried the switch and now it works!
So now I am going to get out and take the caps off and solder those connections and recap them. If anyone has a better suggestion besides soldering the connections I would like to hear them.

Thanks everyone for your help.

split volt connectors, rubber tape and black electric tape.
 
cavie said:
split volt connectors, rubber tape and black electric tape.

I learn so much from this forum. I had no idea what a split volt connector is or what it does. Found the ones in the pics on the Lowes website. Now I'll be using those on one of my TT projects. Thanks cavie.  :))
 

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I think Cavie meant split bolt connectors, also sometimes called ?burndies?  up home.
 
Bob T said:
I think Cavie meant split bolt connectors, also sometimes called ?burndies?  up home.

I have having fat fingers!!
 

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