Oil change in new RV

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DonTom said:
Likewise, all my RV paperwork says my new RV is a 2022. My NV DMV registration says it is a 2021.

But both say they are 2022 for my Chevy Bolt. NV treats RVs differently, but I have no idea why.

-Don- Reno, NV
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Could it be that the VIN on the Bolt says 2022 vs the 2021 on the RV?
 
DonTom said:
Yes, that is the issue. Both are 2022 models, but only the RV has the 2021 VIN. I doubt it is yet possible to buy a new RV with a 2022 VIN.
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There are a couple of things that could be the case. Many motorized RV builders will buy a large number of chassis and then carry them over into the following year model. It is very common to have a motorhome that is a model year newer than the chassis year by vin. Occasionally it can also be reversed. When Ford introduced the V-10 into the F-53 chassis there was no 1998 chassis but they continued to sell the 1997 into January & February, then released the 1999 with the V-10 engine and a new frame-rail design in March of 1998 as a 1999 model. We owned a 1998 Cruise Master that was on a 1999 Ford F-53 chassis.

As to the 2022 RVs, I would not be surprised if there were some out in the market as my son took delivery last month on a 2022 Ford truck.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
That would be you, since you are the one with the faulty title.
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I think I will call that (707)620-6003 number in the morning. I will post here what they say.

OTOH, perhaps it is best if I wait as I have my NV DMV registration and other papers in the RV which is now in the shop. I like to have everything in front of me when I make such a call.

But I can call first to ask a few questions and explain the situation. I wonder if my phone call can change the entire NV DMV process--including being able to register new NV RVs on-line.

I just logged on to the NV DMV to check my 2022 RV. I find this (9/22.2022 is the date I registered it). But below, I can see they registered my 2022 as a 2021:

VA041BFORDF5320219/22/2022ACTIVE

So I will give them a call in the morning and I will post here what they tell me.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
I will start a new thread here in this forum if I ever hear back from the "Government Affair Department".

Back to oil. I see my new RV (7.3L) takes 8 quarts of 5W30 of synthetic engine oil. And I thought my old Y2K RV (7.4L) at seven quarts was a lot.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
That's not a lot, Don. The Beaver I used to have takes 34 quarts (CAT C-13 engine). My current Ventana only needs 16 quarts (Cummins ISB6.7), though.
 
I know I am late to reply as you might already have changed oil. You needn't change oil, but just filter change and topup would have done the job. In future for you, 10000 to 12000 mile is an ideal oil change period. But change filter every 3000 mile and topup or 100 mile after a winterizing period. Annual oil change is a very old concept and is still followed by oil makers/dealers for business reasons (that said, only if you are regularly using fuel additives for full tanks. Some fuel will mix with oil). Congrats on your new purchase and good luck.
 
unni said:
I know I am late to reply as you might already have changed oil.
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Nope, but I will do it, just to feel better, if nothing else.

Besides, I want to make sure I know how to do it, in this low to the ground RV along with a very high oil filler with no clearance. I think I will have to pump the oil in as there is no room for a funnel.

Right now, my RV is in the shop so they can fix these issues in message 47.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Getting underneath is the the only way to change the filter. Only thing is that the filter will be so high than a car/truck that you have to be extra careful not to spill oil in your face. PLus you have to prefill the new oil filter too. Two things help to fill oil in difficult to reach fill holes. 1. There is a $16 1 quart can with cap with a twist valve at bottom and hose attached oil filling tool. You can get it from Autozone or Oreillys. I dont know the name it is called. But when you see it you can easily figure it out. This works for emergencies or one time. Its messy though. 2. $10 Fluid transfer pump with a bulb and two hoses attached on ends. You put the marked hose in your fluid container and other to where it needs to go. Finger plug the bottom end and squeeze the bulb and release and then release the finger. Fluid will continually flow. Works like magic for coolants, should work for oil as well. Good luck.
 
Wow, talk about "thread shift/drift" We start talking about first oil change and end up worried about what year it was made.
Op I think you should double check and do a oil change before you leave. Many manufactures stick a short first mileage change into the warranty wording just to cover them selves.
Bill
 
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