Oil change in new RV

[DonTom]

Now what/how the Mobile-1 20K mile guarantee works I would read what it says on their website.

Here it is.


-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

IMO, even 20K miles in one year is fine with Dino oil. 20K miles in a year would mean a lot of easy freeway driving.

IMO, the 20K mile thing on Mobile One is just marketing BS they put on the bottles to get people to buy it.

I normally change my engine oils once per year in all my ICE vehicles, even with dino oil. I don't even look or care about the mileage.

Even in my new RV I figure the oil that has been in there for around year, so it was probably time to change it the day I purchased my new motorhome.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[WILDEBILL308]

I recall hearing somewhere is you do NOT want the detergents to be too good. They can cause engine wear. Some say changing the engine oil too often can also cause engine wear because the detergents are strongest in new engine oil. Kind of sands down your engine parts by the overcleaning.

You can hear all kinds of experts. But reality is detergents in oil do not work like some kind of solvent cleaning or sanding down your engine. That made me laugh I am sorry. Now I have this vision of little oil drops running around in the engine with scotch brit pads.
What they actually do is keep contaminates in suspension till they can be removed by the filter or by changing the oil.

IMO, the 20K mile thing on Mobile One is just marketing BS they put on the bottles to get people to buy it.

Well dough! You see it is still limited to a one year time period. That should show you how few strictly oil related failures happen now days. seriously little drops of oil like the animated commercial for Dow Bathroom Cleaner with Scrubbing Bubbles.
Bill

 

[DonTom]

What they actually do is keep contaminates in suspension till they can be removed by the filter or by changing the oil.

Now think about how all the garbage gets cleaned off the engine parts to get into the engine oil.

Really, I have no opinion on any of this. I am no expert. But I wonder if we can even find experts who agree when it comes to engine oils.

BTW, now you get to say you've heard it also.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Old_Crow]

Really, I have no opinion on any of this. I am no expert. But I wonder if we can even find experts who agree when it comes to engine oils.


-Don- Reno, NV

I've spent a number of years cruising all kinds of automotive and motorcycle forums. At this point, I doubt that there are two people in the whole world who agree on anything that has to do with oil.

Me? I use Mobil 1 in both the coach and the Jeep. High mileage oil in the Jeep, because it's pushing 199,000 miles, regular M1 in the coach because it's got like 45K on it. I change it at 5000 miles(or once a year on the coach).
If that's too often for some people, so be it, it makes me warm and fuzzy to do it that often.

 

[WILDEBILL308]

Now think about how all the garbage gets cleaned off the engine parts to get into the engine oil.

Like I said it doesn't get to settle out on the engine parts. Any "cleaning" on a improperly cared fore engine comes from hydraulic scouring. I have had hi mileage engines apart that were as clean inside as one just assembled and run on a test stand. Must be those Scrubbing Bubbles.

Me? I use Mobil 1 in both the coach and the Jeep. High mileage oil in the Jeep, because it's pushing 199,000 miles, regular M1 in the coach because it's got like 45K on it. I change it at 5000 miles(or once a year on the coach).

I use M1 in all the cars and light trucks but switched to Shell Rotella T-6 in the Motorhome. Mainly because Shell was offering a $5.00 a gal discount. I use to think 16qt was a lot but my current coach has a ISM that takes 40qt + filter. + generator.

At this point, I doubt that there are two people in the whole world who agree on anything that has to do with oil.

This is true there are so few that have had any real training/education on the subject. Most are repeating in accurate outdated information.
Bill

 

[Ray-IN]

The only way you will know when your chassis was built is ti run the VIN. Mine is a 2016, house built in 3/16 purchased in 6/16.

There is a chart in this thread that shows how to read your VIN to determine month and year of build. https://www.rvforum.net/threads/split-date-rvs.135546/

 

[NSRV]

Ok but what you are talking about applied to your Grand Father's car not current production. The same goes for the oil. Actually regular dino oil has come a long long way. The additive packages' are realey good now days. Ok you are saying "what does this guy know" Well I use to be certified in oil analysis and ran a oil lab when I was in the AF.
I do run a full synthetic oil in my little camper.
Bill

I guess my (20+ years of) professional experience in the automotive repair field passed by you, the last 5 of those years spent in a dealership working on brand new modern vehicles. I've seen it first hand. You change your oil 10K or more miles, you're going to have problems later down the road from sludge build up. Especially if its an engine that has variable valve timing. It doesn't matter whether its "dino oil" or full synthetic, it still breaks down and turns to sludge and grimes up your engine if you don't change it regularly, and that does not mean 10,000 miles or once a year.

 

[Old_Crow]

I guess my (20+ years of) professional experience in the automotive repair field passed by you, the last 5 of those years spent in a dealership working on brand new modern vehicles. I've seen it first hand. You change your oil 10K or more miles, you're going to have problems later down the road from sludge build up. Especially if its an engine that has variable valve timing. It doesn't matter whether its "dino oil" or full synthetic, it still breaks down and turns to sludge and grimes up your engine if you don't change it regularly, and that does not mean 10,000 miles or once a year.

So, that's 50+ years of experience between us, and we're both saying the same thing.
I just don't understand why someone would pay $100,000-$300,000 plus for a coach and then cheap out on the oil changes.
Okay, I understand that oil changes on diesels are more expensive than gas burners, but then so are engine repairs.

Just to add fuel to the fire, the company I work for leases it's pickup trucks from Enterprise. They require that we change the oil before we put them away for the winter and again in the spring when we start back up. Never mind that some of those trucks get a whole 60 miles on them in between.

 

[DonTom]

I just don't understand why someone would pay $100,000-$300,000 plus for a coach and then cheap out on the oil changes.

I can understand perfectly and it has nothing to do with the cost, it's the hassle.

What I don't understand is why everybody thinks everything is about money.

FWIW, I would do my own oil change even if it cost ten times as much to do them myself.

In a large rig, for those who don't do their own oil changes, first find a place that can and will do it. Then make your appointment probably for several weeks later. Then in a few weeks find out they cannot do the oil change as you wait. Find somebody to pick you up and drop you off, etc. etc.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[WILDEBILL308]

I don't recall where I said you should run extended oil change intervals without a oil sampling program. I don't recall where I said you should not follow the manufactuers recommendations. (especially under warranty). Now hear is What Cummins is recommending for the new X15. Use in LineHauL TrucK's Light usage/load > 6.5 mpg (all are based on fuel consumption) 40,000 mi 1,000 hours or 6mo. Severe < 5.5 mpg 20,000 mi 1,000 Hours or 6Mo.

What I don't understand is why everybody thinks everything is about money.

FWIW, I would do my own oil change even if it cost ten times as much to do them myself.

I agree I also spend the time to inspect everything and lube/grease everything. If I was worried about money I wouldn't be using in excess of 10 gal Shell Rotella T-6 of full synthetic oil per change.
Bill

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I'm not a proponent of lengthy extended intervals, but sludge has to be a fairly rare occurrence in a modern engine, at least in the first 100k or so miles. In my mind, it's probably indicative of some sort of abuse or hard-use conditions. Based on the reports of the experience mechanics here, there must be more of that happening than I would have guessed! I shouldn't be surprised at what some people will do to destroy their valuable possessions, but I still am. In my late-model gas vehicles, a 7000 mile oil change is likely to show oil that isn't even black yet. And my diesel oil was black but still clean (and that was a 2004 vintage engine). Yes, I do change my own oil and look for the presence of sludge and foreign gunk. Like many others here, I highly recommend it.

 

[NSRV]

I'm not a proponent of lengthy extended intervals, but sludge has to be a fairly rare occurrence in a modern engine, at least in the first 100k or so miles. In my mind, it's probably indicative of some sort of abuse or hard-use conditions. Based on the reports of the experience mechanics here, there must be more of that happening than I would have guessed! I shouldn't be surprised at what some people will do to destroy their valuable possessions, but I still am. In my late-model gas vehicles, a 7000 mile oil change is likely to show oil that isn't even black yet. And my diesel oil was black but still clean (and that was a 2004 vintage engine). Yes, I do change my own oil and look for the presence of sludge and foreign gunk. Like many others here, I highly recommend it.

A lot of the modern engines that I've torn apart (for reasons not pertaining to sludge) have had a lot of sludge residue, not full on sludge, but there is build up forming in the crevices. This is where the problem starts with extended intervals and that build up also gets into the tiny pin-hole sized galleys (like the galleys used for oil delivery to variable valve timing components). The entire engine doesn't need to be sludged out to cause failure. All it takes is one little glob in the right spot to cause a failure. I'd say that 90% of variable valve timing issues are due to sludge build up in the solenoids (which have fine screens and baffles) and in the oil galleys for those components.

Let me emphasize that the majority of sludge issues I've experienced, on modern engines, are due to minute amounts of sludge building up in the wrong places. Though yes, I have also seen those extreme cases where you find a jello mold of oil sludge in the oil pan. The minute sludge build up is caused by changing your oil every 10,000 miles (or longer). The jello mold of oil sludge on the oil pan is caused by down right neglect.

P.S. Diesel oil, once put into the engine and ran, will always appear black, even right after an oil change this is normal. (For those wondering)

 

[DonTom]

Diesel oil, once put into the engine and ran, will always appear black, even right after an oil change this is normal.

Is that because of the high compression causing more blowby? And is that the main reason diesels need a couple of dozen (or so) quarts of engine oil?

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[WILDEBILL308]

A lot of the modern engines that I've torn apart (for reasons not pertaining to sludge) have had a lot of sludge residue, not full on sludge, but there is build up forming in the crevices. This is where the problem starts with extended intervals and that build up also gets into the tiny pin-hole sized galleys (like the galleys used for oil delivery to variable valve timing components). The entire engine doesn't need to be sludged out to cause failure. All it takes is one little glob in the right spot to cause a failure. I'd say that 90% of variable valve timing issues are due to sludge build up in the solenoids (which have fine screens and baffles) and in the oil galleys for those components.

What oil were they using? How often were they changing it? Was it the oil recommended by the manufacture?
So this takes us back to where I recommended to the OP that he change his oil before going on the next trip. Preferably with Mobil-1 in the appropriate recommended weight.

 

[NSRV]

Is that because of the high compression causing more blowby? And is that the main reason diesels need a couple of dozen (or so) quarts of engine oil?

-Don- Reno, NV

Not that there is more blowby, its because diesel fuel is dirty and sooty so the blowby contains soot which gets into the oil. The reason why they take so many quarts of oil is because of engine size, turbo charger and oil consumption. Every engine burns oil, even brand new engines, and increases as the engine ages/wears. Also, diesel engines, even in trucks and motor homes, are huge. A Cummins 6BT is about 900 lbs with no fluids in it. They need to have an adequate oil supply to pump oil all through out the engine and into the turbo bearings as well.

 

[NSRV]

What oil were they using? How often were they changing it? Was it the oil recommended by the manufacture?

They were dealer maintained vehicles, as I worked in that dealership. Generally, can't say for certain without service history, but it is done at factory interval of 5-10K miles, with factory recommended fluids. It was a Nissan dealership, so it was "Genuine Nissan Engine Oil" (ExxonMobil products.)

 

[DonTom]

I just got done changing the oil in my new motorhome. Nobody would ever guess the most difficult part of an oil change is in a 2022 Entegra Vision 27A. Draining the oil and changing the filter was the easy part. Even in the very low to the ground RV. I first used the levelling jacks and then put a 22 ton jack stand under the frame bar. I don't want to risk my life on only the leveling jacks. A lot of room to work safely with the levelling jacks and the jack stand support. Was an easy job.

By far, the most difficult part of this job is adding the oil. In a garage full of stuff, the only thing that worked was this pump. Worked quite well after I used a hose clamp on the output line. The high pressure makes the hose shoot off. It isn't designed for the direction I used it. I used it to pump oil in instead of what it is designed for, to pump oil out. It worked surprisingly fast to pump in the 8 quarts of 5W30 Mobil One Synthetic through the thin tube.

I have tried the buckets with the hose on the bottom and such. Will not work. Too much stuff in the way. Just to add oil I will have to take the 12V oil pump with me. It will live in my RV--along with a spare. I have two of them here, one still NIB.

If there is another way to add oil to an 2022 Entegra Vision 27A, I sure would like to hear it.

Anyway, the job is completed until next spring, when I will change the oil in all my ICE vehicles.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[Old_Crow]

On my Bounder I either have to buy all the oil in quart bottles, or, if I buy the 5 quart jug, I have to pour it off into the empty quart container. I can empty the small bottle into the filler neck, but not the larger container.
When I first got the coach, I still had my house and shop and I couldn't come up with a funnel combination that would help any.
At least the Mobil 1 quart bottles have the larger neck on them that makes it easier to pour into them from the 5 quart jug.

 

[DonTom]

I either have to buy all the oil in quart bottles,

My oil filler tube has about two inches of clearance to the top, and way in the upper rear of the hood. I don't think anything other than pumping it in with a tube is possible.

-Don- Auburn, CA