OLD AIR CONDITIONERS.

[JIGGS]

HELLO
IS IT TRUE . MY AIR CONDITIONERS ARE FROM 89 PACE ARROW. THE FRONT ONE WILL NOT COOL AND THE BACK ONE WORKS FINE BUT HAS A LOT OF WATER DRIPPING OFF. I TALKED TO AN RV SHOP AND THEY SAID THE FRONT  CAN'T BE RECHARGED. I HAVE LOOKED AND DOESN'T HAVE A HOOKUP FOR REFILL. CAN YOU CUT THE COPPER HOSE WITH A PIPE CUTTER AND PUT A PRESSURE HOSE WITH THE RIGHT FITTINGS TO HOLD THE COOLENT ?
BACK AIR.  LOOKED AT AND CLEANED THE FILTER WITH NO CHANGE. ANY HELP WILL BE WELCOME
THANK YOU.JIGGS

 

[John From Detroit]

Cut the tubing no... .And there are two problems

The first problem (the fitting) can be addressed... I have seen, and purchased, an adapter. This adapter is like the ones that are often sold with icemakers where you clamp it over the line and then screw in a fitting that both pierces the line and seals it at the same time,  and does it all without a loss of coolant.  Most automotive AC shops should be able to tell you where to find one... Or sell you one.

The other problem, which is the larger one.  Is the coolant in the lines.... Some coolants are no longer in production, and the one used in pre 1995 Auto Airconditioners is top on the "Discontinued" list.  If you find some today it's recovered from salvage and the cost is like ... SERIOUS STICKER SHOCK.  I purchased a supply back when it was not so bad... but I've run out... When this happens the only solution is a professional suck it out and replace it with new job (the stuff does not mix well, new or old) or... Replace the unit

Replace the unit is often the less expensive option


Lots of water dripping off simply means the humidity is high where you are

 

[JIGGS]

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. I SHOULD OF SAID THE FRONT AIR CONDITIONER. I HAVE LOOKED AT THE TAG AND THE COOLANT IS ONE THAT YOU CAN STILL GET. ALSO THE BACK AIR IS DRIPPING OR ALMOST A SOLID STREAM OF WATER IS COMING OFF THE UNIT FROM IN SIDE MY RV. OF COURSE IT WILL SOAK MY BED IF I DON'T PUT BUCKETS DOWN.

 

[Ron from Big D]

If the coolant is R-22 it is the same as for residential a/c units.  A good a/c guy can install ports in the lines.  I've had it done to two of my units and they are doing just fine.  The continuous water leak is probably from your condensate drain on the a/c pan being stopped up and backing into the coach.  Remove the cover and check it out.  They all produce water and it has to go somewhere.  It takes the path of least resistance.

 

[John From Detroit]

ALSO THE BACK AIR IS DRIPPING OR ALMOST A SOLID STREAM OF WATER IS COMING OFF THE UNIT FROM IN SIDE MY RV. OF COURSE IT WILL SOAK MY BED IF I DON'T PUT BUCKETS DOWN.

That is serious, it's supposed to run down the OUTSIDE of your motorhome

Inspect the tray under the evaporator (cold coil or indoor coils) you will find some drain holes likely along one edge, These are clogged and need to be cleaned out

While you are there clean the entire tray out, get rid of all the "gunk" in it and you may wish to bleach it a bit (I'd use about double strength sanatazer,,, that is twice the strength of what you use to sanatize the fresh water tank)

Be sure to rinse well after bleaching, and don't bleach if it will damage your motorhome's finish (Test first) wear bleach resistant clothing and follow all strong bleach precautions

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Your rear air conditioner mount may be loose, allowing the condensate to flow under it and inside the RV. I had that problem with a 1988 Fleetwood fifth wheel we once owned.  It was cured quite simply by tightening the bolts that compress the a/c against the gasket that sits between it and the roof.  On that old trailer it was a matter of tightening four bolts, one in each corner and accessible from the inside through the air return.  Basically these four bolts just clamped the a/c unit to a standard 14x14 RV roof vent opening.  I don't recall what brand a/c I had in that unit, so don't now if yours will be similar or not.

 

[Karl]

Almost ALL a/c units can be recharged. There will be short stub of copper tubing sitcking out the side of the compressor that doesn't go anywhere. The a.c guy will cut the sealed end off, attach a fitting, and use a vacuum pump to remove any entrained air thru a series of gauges and valves. Once that's done, he will open the valve of the tube connected to the refrigerant supply and refill the system. When that's done, he uses a special, round crimping tool to seal the tubing, remove the connector, and braze the end of the tube shut. If the unit has been recharged several times, the tube may be too short for him to recharge this way; then he has to cut into a different tube to do the recharging.

As Ron from Big D said, the drain must be plugged somewhere. Where do you live that there's that much moisture in the air (or are you boiling large pots of water throughout the day? ;D)

 

[Karl]

Good point, Gary!

However, on a unit that old, the gasket may be hard and brittle, or just compresed too much already where further tightening is not possible. Then it will have have to be replaced (the gasket).

 

[JIGGS]

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR IDEAS. I WILL TRY THEM WITH LUCK I HOPE. I WAS ASKED WHERE I LIVE FOR THE HUMIDITY. I LIVE  AS FAR WEST IN PA AS YOU CAN. I DO HAVE MANY QUESTIONS BUT I HAVE USED TO MUCH OF YOUR TIME . THANKS AGAIN

 

[Ron]

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR IDEAS. I WILL TRY THEM WITH LUCK I HOPE. I WAS ASKED WHERE I LIVE FOR THE HUMIDITY. I LIVE? AS FAR WEST IN PA AS YOU CAN. I DO HAVE MANY QUESTIONS BUT I HAVE USED TO MUCH OF YOUR TIME . THANKS AGAIN

No you haven't taken up too much time here. Please ask any questions you have.  We like to be able to help.

 

[JIGGS]

OKAY YOU ASKED FOR IT.  I WANT TO BE ABLE TO RUN BOTH AIR CONDITIONERS AT THE SAME TIME IF NEEDED. I KNOW I CAN RUN THE GENERATOR TO DO SO BUT THE PRICE OF GAS I WOULD LIKE TO FIND A WAY NOT TO RUN IT. I AM THINKING IF I GO TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH AND HOOK IN A 30 AMP. CORD TO THE REAR AIR AND THE OTHER END WILL GO TO CAMPGROUND POWER SUPPLY. THIS WOULD BE THE EASIEST WAY TO DO IT. UNLESS THEIR IS A PRODUCT TO DO WHAT I WANT. ANY IDEAS ?

 

[John From Detroit]

I AM THINKING IF I GO TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH AND HOOK IN A 30 AMP. CORD TO THE REAR AIR AND THE OTHER END WILL GO TO CAMPGROUND POWER SUPPLY. THIS WOULD BE THE EASIEST WAY TO DO IT. UNLESS THEIR IS A PRODUCT TO DO WHAT I WANT. ANY IDEAS ?

There are selector switches (Fancy names like "Power Commander" and the like, note, I'm not sure if that is one of them) which will direct power to one AC, for a while, then switch off.  Usually the first AC gets power and when it releases the line the other one gets it (or after so many minutes, some can be set either way)

However upgrade to 50 amp service works too,,, This is, however, a MAJOR upgrade as 50 amp wireing is rather different from 30 amp.... (For one thing 50 amp is 2 legged, so it's usually 120/240 volt, this means a 4-wire cord (hot-nuteral-hot & safety ground) instead of a 3-wire, it means a dual-buss box instead of a single,

When you hook it up you make sure that one AC is on one leg and the other on the other, works great