Paint Match

[Tiercel]

I repaired a fiberglass crack where someone packed into a tree limb.

This Dutchman Express MH is on a 2000 Chevy Express 3500 chassis. The RV appears to be the same color as the cab (white).

What do you think the likelihood is that the paint code on the chassis is accurate? I am hoping that they painted the MH the stock color of the Chevy chassis.
What are the chances they painted the chassis the color of the RV portion and the code on the chassis is wrong?

I have a place in town that will detect the paint color and custom mix paint and put it in a spray can, but I would like to avoid that if I can trust the paint code on the chassis door. It would be nice to pick a can of stock paint up from someplace like auto zone.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Those small cans of auto touch up paint are cheap enough, so I'd suggest buying a can with the matching code and testing it in an inconspicuous place. If it matches, great, if not it's not much of a loss.

 

[Tiercel]

Good point Dutch!

 

[Ex-Calif]

Unlikely to match after 20+ years. I'd go with the color match if I really cared about the finish.

 

[John From Detroit]

Though I've gotten lucky at 15 years I agree it's not likely to match after that long (some colors fade slower) Sherman Williams Auto Paint stores will step out with a calibrated camera,, CLICK, and make it match.

 

[Tiercel]

I don't have a Sherwin Williams Auto Paint store. In fact, I had no clue they even made auto body paint.

I do however have a wholesale body shop supply business in town that will paint match and put it in a spray can if want. Depending on the cost, I might try my luck with the paint code and see how noticeable it is. The top of the matching seam will be on the roof seam totally out of sight. The lower edge will end either above the rear running lights or at the top of the large rear window if I decide to bring it that low. Between the lights, rear window, and ladder breaking it up I am not sure it will be noticeable that far above eye level.

I used to paint cars as a kid/young adult but that was 100 years ago and with all professional equipment. It might be worth prepping, priming it, and taping it off, and seeing what a body shop will charge to just spray it.

 

[Ex-Calif]

You've got the right thinking about breaking up the transition lines if using a standard color. Sound like you have a handle on it. Of course a lot depends on what the surrounding panels look like as well.

You may get a slight break on prep for pre-sanding but not many shops will guarantee a paint job unless they to the prep, masking and priming. Check with the shop first.

 

[Tiercel]

All good points Ex-Calif. Thanks!

 

[Tiercel]

I patched the cracked fiberglass ( actually two cracks about 18” apart). Per the paint code, I bought Olympic White at advance auto. I topped it with Matt Clear Coat to dull the sheen for a closer match. It is not perfect but buffing the surrounding area will help. At least I sealed two “L” shaped breaks several inches long.

Here is a pic. The patched/painted area is above the three running lights and tapers across and down to the top ladder support and passenger side running light..

 

[Rene T]

Nice job. No one will ever know unless you tell them. My lips are sealed.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Looks good from here!