Phaeton refrigerator fuse?

[oldwildman]

So, I'm in the process of putting new cooling unit from JC refrigeration into a 2005 Tiffin Phaeton. And, due to fumble fingered me, I blew the 12 volt fuse for the refrigerator. Simple fix, right? Not really! I cannot find the fuse. It's not in the usual spots. There's a coach fuse block on the same wall as the frig. Nothing there. Looked behind the frig, no joy. The other fuse blocks are for chassis related stuff. Nothing obvious in the battery compartment. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[oldwildman]

Yay! found it. It's in the inverter compartment.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Thanks for letting us know the answer.

 

[Kirk]

One of those in-line fuse holders? The industry has a long history of throwing them into a circuit, anywhere it is convenient for them at the factory with no documentation to tell the owners where they are.

 

[oldwildman]

One of those in-line fuse holders? The industry has a long history of throwing them into a circuit, anywhere it is convenient for them at the factory with no documentation to tell the owners where they are.

Actually, it's well labeled and it's mounted to a board. It's just that it's behind a cover and nestled in amongst a lot of bigger electric stuff. It's one of those auto reset breakers. It just ran out of 'auto' I guess. Got a new one at the auto parts store. Interesting that the frig has a direct line to the batteries. And, it's a 30 amp breaker! From what I read, the frig DC draw is in the single digits.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Actually, it's well labeled and it's mounted to a board. It's just that it's behind a cover and nestled in amongst a lot of bigger electric stuff. It's one of those auto reset breakers. It just ran out of 'auto' I guess. Got a new one at the auto parts store. Interesting that the frig has a direct line to the batteries. And, it's a 30 amp breaker! From what I read, the frig DC draw is in the single digits.

If you had a 3-way fridge, it might need 30A, but Phaetons don't come equipped that way. But no worries, as long as the wire can carry 30A. A fuse protects the wire, not the load at the end of the wire. Just like your outlets at home, with a low power clock or nightlight plugged to a 15A outlet.

 

[Kirk]

And, it's a 30 amp breaker! From what I read, the frig DC draw is in the single digits.

Unless it is 3 way and can run on 12V only it would be low. Most RV absorption refrigerators have a 3A fuse for 12V that is on the refrigerator's power circuit board. Even the 120V fuse is typically only 5A. With 3 way it would also have a separate 12V fuse for the heater that would be 20-30A. Since your refrigerator has fuses on the circuit borad to protect it, the larger fuse in the supply will harm nothing.

 

[John From Detroit]

# ways typically have a 25 amp fuse on the main board for the heater so 30 for the "Whole thing" Reasonable.

 

[oldwildman]

Unless it is 3 way and can run on 12V only it would be low. Most RV absorption refrigerators have a 3A fuse for 12V that is on the refrigerator's power circuit board. Even the 120V fuse is typically only 5A. With 3 way it would also have a separate 12V fuse for the heater that would be 20-30A. Since your refrigerator has fuses on the circuit borad to protect it, the larger fuse in the supply will harm nothing.

Ah, now it makes sense. As a result of my mistake, I damaged the control board. Examining it, I saw the smaller fuse and wondered about it. Now I know what's protecting the frig. The board works fine except the frig won't shut off. I push the button on the front of the frig and it never goes off. Other than that, it works ok. Thankfully, as a result of reading all I can on this board, I learned about Dinosaur Electronics. Board is on it's way. Not too pricey and in stock.

The mistake arose from different wiring conventions on the same circuit. I learned if the power wires are red and black, the black is ground. However, if the wires are white and black, the black is hot. Add that to a long day of a novice installing a washer/dryer and rebuilding a refrigerator and mistakes occur. All in all, though, I think it was a cheap mistake. And now, I have a much better understanding of that subsystem of the RV.

 

[Kirk]

I learned about Dinosaur Electronics. Board is on it's way.

I always use circuit boards from Dinosaur if they are available for what I'm working on. They cost less than OEM and have better quality and a longer guarantee. I have used them in a Norcold refrigerator, an Atwood water heater and a Suburban furnace and have installed several into other appliances for other RV owners. I have never had one fail under proper use.