Possible Converter Damage After 50 Amp Power Issue

[Lou Schneider]

Yesterday while driving 4 hours, the engine alternator charged the house batteries to 100%. Today they will not charge the house batteries. My research suggests the battery isolator solenoid is bad. Not sure how to determine that and if bad how to replace.

Thoughts and suggestions.

Measure across the two large terminals on the solenoid with the engine running. 0 volts means the solenoid is engaged and conducting current. Any other reading means the solenoid is not connecting the two terminals together.

 

[garyb1st]

Measure across the two large terminals on the solenoid with the engine running. 0 volts means the solenoid is engaged and conducting current. Any other reading means the solenoid is not connecting the two terminals together.

Unless a solenoid works intermittently before completely failing, I think it's not the problem. Could be the Intellitec system.

 

[Kirk]

Unless a solenoid works intermittently before completely failing,

While it is possible that is happening, it is unlikely that the solenoid would do that. Some bad contacts might but if so they would probably show a voltage loss even when working. I suspect that your problem is related to the "popping sound and sweet smell."

 

[garyb1st]

Picked up another WFCO - AD converter. For now, I think the battery issue is solved. The new converter appears to have charged the batteries in the lithium mode. Something I don't believe the old WFCO - AD converter ever did. When fully charged, the batteries voltage was over 14. Never saw any reading over 13.3 with old converter. It also charged at a rate of almost 3 times that of the old converter.

 

[Rene T]

Likely cause. My best guesses. First, 50 Amp plug not fully pushed into receptacle possibly causing short when power turned on. DW setting up while I went to park HQ to pay. Came back and she mentioned a problem with the power. She heard a popping sound and then noticed a sweet smell. Microwave dead. Pulled it out, tested the ceramic fuse and it was still good. But it will not start. Second, transfer switch damaged.

Batteries not being charged by shore power or generator. Checked the two 40 amp fuses on the converter. Still good. Started engine and batteries taking charge. Initially 65 to 75 amps going in when engine running. After a few minutes it settles down to about 50 amps going in. Don't have a B to B so will only run for short periods. Would like to get the batteries to more than 50% so the refrigerator keeps running over night.

I'm thinking that maybe the converter is toast but since the fuses are not blown, is that possible? If not the converter, could it possibly be the transfer switch? For now I'm using the Honda to power my computer so I can post this.

If the converter I'll pick one up and put it in. If the transfer switch, I wouldn't know what to do. If anyone has any other thoughts please let me know.

Thanks.

This may sound stupid but did you check for power at the outlet for the microwave?

 

[Lou Schneider]

Microwave dead. Pulled it out, tested the ceramic fuse and it was still good. But it will not start.

I thought I killed the microwave in my DRV trailer last year. It died when I accidentally turned it on with nothing in it. No lights, no power, nothing.

I went to Walmart and got a $50 countertop microwave to tide me over until I could find a permanent replacement and unplugged the main microwave.

Several months later, I decided to give the old unit one last try before pulling it out. Plugged it in and it came to life, everything worked.

Did some research and found some appliances including room heaters have a thermal failsafe on their overload relays that keep them from resetting unless you unplug the unit for several tens of minutes. They're designed to prevent repeated cycling of say, a room heater if it's overturned.

That's what happened to my microwave. When it first died I unplugged it for several minutes, then tried it again. Apparently it wasn't unplugged long enough for the thermal interlock to reset.

 

[DonTom]

Did some research and found some appliances including room heaters have a thermal failsafe on their overload relays that keep them from resetting unless you unplug the unit for several tens of minutes.

Modern vacuum cleaners do that too. Sometimes have to wait more than an hour for it to reset.

I also discovered it the hard way, but many years ago.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[garyb1st]

The old Microwave is history. Found a waste facility that takes electronics and dropped it off.

 

[garyb1st]

Ever wonder what a Converter looks like that got more volts that it wanted.
First shows what's left of a thin piece of plastic that was covering the electronics. The second is the inside of the metal box that houses the converter.

 

[Wmlunt-WO]

Ever wonder what a Converter looks like that got more volts that it wanted.
First shows what's left of a thin piece of plastic that was covering the electronics. The second is the inside of the metal box that houses the converter.

You’re not supposed to let the smoke out!
Bill